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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Recently I've changed the tires on my MV and following owners manual I've checked the front wheel axle. I'm glad that I have it done because I found that the roll over wasn't smooth, seems like it has sand inside. Rolling the wheel mounted in the fork, I've found the reason for the vibration on the handle bars.

Bad bearings out, I didn't saw any thing wrong with the axle set (at first sight) and I've put it all in place. For my surprise the same happened, "sand" in the bearings.

Bearings out (the new ones, unfortunately), I've found that the bearings housing have some kind of ALU protective coating, and OEM color paint sprayed. It happens that when bearing slides into the housing it drags coating, paint and ALU bellow it, not all around, inducing not a good seat on the housing for the bearing. The first time I've pull out the bad bearings, I've noticed a non regular seat in one side of the wheel but I though it wasn't a problem.

Owners manual says to check the axle and spacer, but I 've done it only after mounting the new bearings, I've never suposed that it was not ok. Checking the axle and spacer, now I see worn on the axle done by bearings inner rings and also worn on one side of the spacer, done by the worst bearing that also marked badly the axle. Rolling the axle on a flat surface and with light behind, I see warpage on the end and the huge worn done by the worst bearing.

With this lack of material and bad seat, is not a surprise that axle set is tightening to much the bearings, not allowing the good rolling.

In the end, what I would like to know is:

- has it happened to you?
- how did you checked?
- what have you replaced?
- how did you replaced? tools and methods
- most important, are you aware of any protective coated and painted bearing housings that allows to drag things between bearing and housing?

I never saw this before, in japs always was ALU finishing, if not original then I believe that the first owner has painted the wheel and after has changed the bearings. I cannot believe that this comes from factory, but...

I hope to get some answers from you guys, txs a lot.

Regards, Nelson.:f4:

ps- soon I will add some pics
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Pics

Here some pics:

1-wheel bearing housing (better bearing)
2-wheel bearing housing (worst bearing)
3-spacer face (damaged side)
4-nut face (not damaged)
5-axle
6-axle mark (worst bearing)
7-axle mark (better bearing)
8-damaged bearings
9-new bearings
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Donsy,

- does the OEM wheel bearing housings come from factory with any coating as the pic show?
- can you tell me the OEM lenght of the spacer?

Txs,
Nelson
 

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I'll answer you 119mm

the wheels (other than Mg) have no coatings on bearing surfaces

:drummer:
 

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Nelson;
NSK makes top quality bearings....the issue is with the coating

:popcorn:
 

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I'd clean up the wheel bore, buy a new axle and nut and be done with it.
 

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F4[tiˈfoːzi];1292434 said:
Hi guys,

Recently I've changed the tires on my MV and following owners manual I've checked the front wheel axle. I'm glad that I have it done because I found that the roll over wasn't smooth, seems like it has sand inside. Rolling the wheel mounted in the fork, I've found the reason for the vibration on the handle bars.

Bad bearings out, I didn't saw any thing wrong with the axle set (at first sight) and I've put it all in place. For my surprise the same happened, "sand" in the bearings.

Bearings out (the new ones, unfortunately), I've found that the bearings housing have some kind of ALU protective coating, and OEM color paint sprayed. It happens that when bearing slides into the housing it drags coating, paint and ALU bellow it, not all around, inducing not a good seat on the housing for the bearing. The first time I've pull out the bad bearings, I've noticed a non regular seat in one side of the wheel but I though it wasn't a problem.

Owners manual says to check the axle and spacer, but I 've done it only after mounting the new bearings, I've never suposed that it was not ok. Checking the axle and spacer, now I see worn on the axle done by bearings inner rings and also worn on one side of the spacer, done by the worst bearing that also marked badly the axle. Rolling the axle on a flat surface and with light behind, I see warpage on the end and the huge worn done by the worst bearing.

With this lack of material and bad seat, is not a surprise that axle set is tightening to much the bearings, not allowing the good rolling.

In the end, what I would like to know is:

- has it happened to you?
- how did you checked?
- what have you replaced?
- how did you replaced? tools and methods
- most important, are you aware of any protective coated and painted bearing housings that allows to drag things between bearing and housing?

I never saw this before, in japs always was ALU finishing, if not original then I believe that the first owner has painted the wheel and after has changed the bearings. I cannot believe that this comes from factory, but...

I hope to get some answers from you guys, txs a lot.

Regards, Nelson.:f4:

ps- soon I will add some pics
These wheels haven't got shot blasting grit inside them have they ? I mean have they been re-painted at some point ?

Anyway for me, I'd buy a replacement axle and new bearings, I'd clean the bearing housing of any paint and thoroughly clean the inside of the wheel to get rid of any dirt/grit/paint and start again.

The bearing housing does seem to be a bit knocked about. I would definitely give some attention to make sure there is no metal peened over reducing the diameter of the bearing housing at any point as if there is then this will kick the bearing outofline when fitting.

I'd check the bearing isn't spinning then in the housing. There is a Loctite product to grip bearings in their housing if this is the case.

Joe

joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Guys, many txs for your feedback, you are a great help.

I believe you, but I can not believe that the previous owner has done a job like this.

I've found a pic (black and white, but contrast from ALU shining is there) on maintenance manual showing that is free from coating.

Any tip to remove the coating? Auto paint removal or something?

Regards everyone,

Nelson
 

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Lacquer Thinner and a very fine Scotch-Brite pad should do the trick. Don't get it on any surface where you don't want paint damaged.
 

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...actually, you could just use the scotch-brite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Guys,

I've already removed paint with thinner and passed Scotch Brite as recommended, it works nice, now is ALU shine and have added a chanfer in each side to allow a better alignment. I've removed the two brake disc rotor and also the seats were painted, in the end all the wheel was painted for some reason (very bad pain job) as is showing clear coat when original like my rear wheel is opaque.

Now I have another issue, as told before the spacer between both bearings was damaged on one side. Removing the damage on the lathe, it's now with 118,95mm, less 0,05 than original. I tought the spacer has the right lenght to fit between bearings inner rings when the same bearings are all way down the housing.

However today when testing the set with 2 kind of flat and thick washers on the bottom of each bearing housing against the spacer tops, I've found that spacer has more lenght than the distance from one bottom housing to the other bottom housing. I was afraid to have the spacer shorter than spec and when axle will be tight it can damage the bearings by forcing the inner rings, now it seems (if my wheel bearing housings are at original distance, it seems so) that bearings will be pressed until they find the specer, independently of housing depth.

At first sight it seems that bearings will have around 1mm gap on bottom housings (or in one only housing if one of the bearings is at the bottom) when spacer is in contact.

Or bearings should be pressed to the bottom and then the 44Nm applied on the axle will put the inner rings into position resulting the correct rolling?

Please leave your precious feedback. I will put pics asap with the work done.

Best regards,

Nelson

ps- any one knows OEM paint codes for the dark grey of the wheels, light grey and red? Txs a lot
 

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Nelson;

the spacer can be too long...a bit, BUT never too short....... like you said it will side load the bearings....

measure the distance between the bearing seats in the wheel......that should be the length of the spacer

if you have any questions PM me
 
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