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Discussion Starter #1
Im going to change my chain in the not too distant future. and I have always felt the bike is a bit high on the RPM's when on the highway. One of the reasons I don't like to ride on the highway, with the engine screaming, I feel like im abusing it.
I know some of you may scoff and say its made for it, I find it bothersome.
Feels like this gearing is meant more for the track.
I prefer cruising the mtn twistys but often times it takes 1-2 hours to get to them, and I'd like to reduce the strain on both the bike and myself.

I seem to be at about 6500 rpm -/+ at 75mph.
is it possible to drop it 1000rpm?
and if so what would be the best way to go about it? and how will it affect the lower gears?
makes me wish there was a 7spd "overdrive"
 

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Try with different gearing. - 3 tooth at the back makes a big difference, but the 750 soon runs out of puff...
 

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Here's a web site with a calculator to help you:

https://www.gearingcommander.com/

Just remember, you will lose some acceleration with taller gearing, and your speedometer will be less accurate as speed reading on the meter is function of a sensor at the transmission shaft. You can fix that with a "YellowBox" or other correction device. Google is your friend here.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did some reading, one where someone put a 15t on in place of the stock 14t, said it made an improvement, thinking I might try that first, especially since they are only $20.
Will I notice THAT much of a difference from a stop? honestly right now it feels pretty good. Maybe slightly better than it used to since I adjusted the Pot on the ECU mixture (looked rich, and I'm at altitude so I turn it 1/4 lean)

is there anyway to change the cassette gearing?
 

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is there anyway to change the cassette gearing?
Only if you have the unobtanium MV race team transmission kits...Donsy managed to buy one a long time back. There is a thread where he show photos and discusses. Your chances of getting that stuff is nil. I think there were only 2 available when they were available.

The SPR came with a close ratio gearbox. Mostly a longer first gear and tighter ratios up top. You can seek one of those from a parted out bike...one of the 300 made.

If you have enough money you could have some new transmission parts made. You can get anything with enough money.

One tooth larger on the front sprocket is like 3 smaller on the rear. Did you look at the gearing calculator I gave you the link to? Plug in your variables and the answers will appear.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I see, Ok will keep that in mind, Im on the original chain with 7k miles, it has a bit of sag now, might that be enough for the extra tooth? assuming some adjustment in the hub (never adjusted it, since new)

Your chain might not be enough for +1, thats why i suggested the -3 at the rear.
Plus if I change the rear I'd like to get something a little more spiffy, and aluminum. I thought I read something about changing to the quick change flange?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Grrrrr can't get the nut off!!

I tried tying down the wheel spoke, but it kept slipping.
would this be suitable to lock the rear wheel (pic) (probably use something a little thicker)
 

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Don't do that !!!

Get a 1/2 inch drive impact gun. Or use a tie-down strap and soft ties around a wheel spoke and the frame somewhere.
 

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...and understand that the sprocket side nut is regular thread....LEFTY LOOSEY
 
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?

MikeDanger;
This is for the wheel nut, but you'll get the idea (normally you should remove the can)
The 2 wrenches I use for removing the 55mm nuts
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i tried wrapping it around the foot peg, but either way i just went and got my compressor out of storage and used the 1/2" impact..... just wish someone mentioned id have to break the chain to get the sprocket off! so i got a new chain.... (this is a lot easier on bicycles!)
 

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You don’t have to break the chain; you simply rotate the hub so the axle is forward and that gives maximum chain slack. The chain then lifts off the sprocket.
 
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