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Discussion Starter #1
Bike died while parked on the street and couldn't get it started. Battery has been acting up. Anyone know how to jump start the bike???
Thanks

(I did do a search but nothing useful came up)
 

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Welcome to the forum mate, sorry that you had to join under these circumstances.
Your description is pretty vague - "bike died while parked" ? - if the battery has been acting up you should replace it.
By "Jump start", do you mean start by using a donor battery or cables between another bike/car and your bike ?
Or do you mean push and drop clutch style "jump start" ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Donsy, here's a little more info: cold day today, about -1C, the bike started at home fine, went to a coffee shop near work. Came out and the battery is pretty much dead. (low battery came on the dash while trying to start it.) So question is, is there a way to jump start with a booster battery or car without lifting up the tank to get to the battery terminal?? (using battery tender plug?) I haven't tried the bump start method yet, not a good area to try ( no real runway to get bike rolling).
 

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Had the same problem. Pushed to a hill and tried to bump start but it wouldn't go. Luckily there was a garage nearby so I got a start but I had to take the tank off. I read of someone who took a plastic handled screwdriver or two, wrapped them in insulating tape all but the tip and poked them under the tank onto the battery terminals. Don't do it unless you want to learn arc welding and bike exploding at the same time.

Don't bother trying to charge the old battery and don't bother trying to ride it until you've thrown the stock piece of crap away and bought a decent one.
 

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is there anyway of providing power to the fuse box (behind the little black box on the RH side of my B3 just behind the air intake) that will enable a 'jump start' without the physical jumping part?
 

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Because of the current draw from a starter motor, you really do need a big pair of cables. It's better to just have a decent battery in the first place in my opinion at least.
 

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is there anyway of providing power to the fuse box (behind the little black box on the RH side of my B3 just behind the air intake) that will enable a 'jump start' without the physical jumping part?
good question!! NO do not even try this. the fuse your thinking about is protecting the stater seloniod & wiring !! Might be 30 amp rated. this is not batt to engine starter capable to begin with. you'll expose your bike to serious wiring harness damage.

if your thinking about going directly to the batt side of the selonid you could get away with this but do you really need to take the chance??

take a step back realize the situation and move forward replacing the batt with a high quality freshly charged unit. also use a corrosion protectant.

follow Donsy on this !
 

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Hahaha, I had nothing to do with that, but it's similar to what I used on my semi total loss F4 1000, your cables are great quality buddy, but a bit on the thin side.
 

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Also put a cover over the terminal to stop it getting cruddy.....


Because I didn't get the MV charger with my bike I put connectors directly to the battery terminals and hung them to the side of the tank so I could plug my optimate in without removing the tank. Worked but the stock battery never was any good charged or not. I took them off when I fitted the lithium ion battery because you can't charge a li-ion with an optimate or you'll fry it.

Haven't charged the li-ion since I fitted it over a year ago and the bike starts no worries.
 

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Emanuel - is this to charge it or to jump start? If you need to fix a permanent cable to jump start is there not something else wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the responses everyone. The jump start option was just to get the bike back home so I didn't have get it towed. But luckily when i got off work and walked back to my bike, the temperature had warmed up to around 3C and the bike started after a couple of tries. I will be putting in a new battery asap. I will also be installing a lead from the battery to under the seat but with thicker gauge wire. Thanks again everyone!!!
 

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Guys, there's a company in Nothern Ca USA Moto electric who make custom OFC oxygen free copper cables! there's none better. I beleive they use "0" strand. you can go "00" , "000" this is the highest quality available . If you search YouTube about OFC you'll be up to speed and most likely placing an order. the resistance value is very low , no oxidation!! if I find the YouTube link I'll post it. 99.999 % pure copper min. search YouTube about OFC wire your starting problems will go away. Of course you'll need a good battery.

intenseridrer glad you got going with no damage. make sure you charge the new batt before installing. the initial start pays off. some sit for a long time and are weak when you buy them

I'm half tempted to see if they can make complete harnesses . how cool would that be? no resistance no heat!! of course you would need niobium ,copper & tin and less than 10 kelvin to stay superconducting a little liquid helium a cold beer happy ending
 

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I also live in an extreme climate area and already had to replace the original battery. At one point I was going to do the same thing and install a jumper cable port on the bike, but I have discovered 2 things, one the bike is easy to 'bump' start (bump start = run jump on and drop the clutch) and two I now keep the bike on a trickle charger before every ride and this combined with the new battery seems to have addressed the problems. I just put the battery issues down to the bike being basically a race bike and being fitted with the smallest, lightest battery possible.
Will be interesting to see how my replacement battery performs this year, now that it is almost a year old. :/ all motorcycle batteries are a pain and tremendously over-priced. Buy them cheap and replace them often seems to be the best way to go imho.
 

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You can bump start in first :/ I could never figure out why people feel they need to use a high gear, that just means the engine is turning over more slowly relative to your road speed, which is pretty darn slow when you are pushing the bike at your fastest run.
 

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If you try and bump start in first you usually end up with the back wheel locking up cause it's much harder to turn the engine over in first. That's why its preferable to use 2nd or 3rd gear.
 
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