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Discussion Starter #1
I had my third sprag fail back in July and had to wait for the new (mark III) version to be fitted in August. It lasted a bit over 3 months and 3,000 k before heading the same way, except this one failed really fast. I must admit that I was never really that confident in the new one, it never really started that cleanly from day one. The others had failed by just not starting and giving the odd clack, whereas this one became a real clack machine.

So as much as I love it I think I'm done with the Brutale 800 for now. There's clearly a serious problem with this bike and I've no confidence that it will be fixed anytime soon. I've told the dealer I think it's time we discussed a refund. I'm considering whether the bigger 1090R would be a suitable replacement. They appear to be more reliable, but they seem quite old school compared to the more modern 800s. Also tried a 2014 Tuono and that was a seriously fun ride and much more modern than the 1090. Decisions, decisions!
 

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Another question, have you replaced the cable to the battery/solenoid/starter motor with a quality bigger gauge copper cable. Along side a decent battery this has certainly given my bike a much better start response.
 

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Not sure of sprag architecture but could the problem be not the sprag but the thing it fits into? Just seems odd to me that some bikes eat sprags while I'm on 3500 miles and no real sprag issues. I used to hear the odd clack on the old pos battery but since the new one went on I've barely noticed it.
 

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No issue with the new sprag and I've got around 3k miles on it. Would someone please come forth with evidence that this is related to a battery/wiring issue BEFORE suggesting to replace.
 

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Why doesn't anyone ever post this info in the first place? Have you replaced the battery? (yes/no) Have you tried upgrading the ignition cables? (yes/no)

I did both on mine as soon as I brought it home and no sprag issues for me yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Battery has nothing to do with it.
Agreed. It has nothing to do with the battery! And I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the ignition cables - besides the fact that replacing those is not my problem.

My reasons for stating the above: My dealer always replaces the battery when new - bikes sold new in NZ have spent too long travelling and too long in a warehouse for the battery to be any good. Also I ride every day so my battery is always in top condition - I've never even unpacked the battery conditioner. Previous sprag failures have been just a reluctance to start with the odd clack, however this "new" failure was definitely all about the clack. Ultimately it wouldn't even turn the engine over for clacking. Previous failures I could try starting dozens of times with no noticeable reduction in the starter speed - it just wouldn't fire. And finally, previous sprag replacements have instantly "solved" the problem - for a while!

I didn't pay top dollar for a bike that needs parts to be upgraded. If they need upgrading, then MV can sort that out themselves. I've had enough.
 

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No issue with the new sprag and I've got around 3k miles on it. Would someone please come forth with evidence that this is related to a battery/wiring issue BEFORE suggesting to replace.

Well I bought my bike with 2k on the clock and the stock battery. It would either start or not depending what mood it was in, the sprag clacked like crazy and I replaced the battery after I ended up pushing it a mile or so. It's a light bike but none of them are light when the road goes uphill. Since I put a decent battery on it starts first or second push of the button even if I leave it for a month. No sprag sound. It's cold, wet and miserable here but I bet you a new Alfa Giulia V6 turbo that I can go out to the shed and that bike will start 1st or second prod. I haven't started it since boxing day.

I conclude from this my Dear Watson :) that if the battery hasn't enough juice it cant keep the sprag engaged so it slips and that's when you hear the clack. It does this enough times and it's donald ducked.

I admit there are holes in my logic but without knowing if every MV with a duff sprag has the stock battery or every MV with a decent battery doesn't have sprag issues all I can say is it worked for me. Be nice if a dealer with experience of changing a lot of sprags would chime in.

I did offer to write a sticky thread on the sprag/battery issue but the moderators weren't interested.
 

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Agreed. It has nothing to do with the battery! And I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the ignition cables - besides the fact that replacing those is not my problem.

My reasons for stating the above: My dealer always replaces the battery when new - bikes sold new in NZ have spent too long travelling and too long in a warehouse for the battery to be any good. Also I ride every day so my battery is always in top condition - I've never even unpacked the battery conditioner. Previous sprag failures have been just a reluctance to start with the odd clack, however this "new" failure was definitely all about the clack. Ultimately it wouldn't even turn the engine over for clacking. Previous failures I could try starting dozens of times with no noticeable reduction in the starter speed - it just wouldn't fire. And finally, previous sprag replacements have instantly "solved" the problem - for a while!

I didn't pay top dollar for a bike that needs parts to be upgraded. If they need upgrading, then MV can sort that out themselves. I've had enough.
Take a photo of your battery if you dont mind. Its quite a bit of work to get to the battery, doubt your dealer replaces the battery even if they say so.
 

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But like the Fazer Dude said, its all about the fact that MV has to get that thing sorted, has to. I dont think people want to buy a build kit when they buy a new bike. No matter how much you like to blame batteries and cables, the fact stays. It must be 100% functional from the factory and stay that way for a considerable amount of time. If this doesnt start to happen soon, MV will be in financial shit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
But like the Fazer Dude said, its all about the fact that MV has to get that thing sorted, has to. I dont think people want to buy a build kit when they buy a new bike. No matter how much you like to blame batteries and cables, the fact stays. It must be 100% functional from the factory and stay that way for a considerable amount of time. If this doesnt start to happen soon, MV will be in financial shit.
Couldn't agree more. While I'll concede that it is possible that some of these other issue could contribute - it's MV's problem, not mine! If the battery is inadequate, then MV should sort it out, if it is the leads or temperature sensors or anything else, same thing. I don't really care what they fix, so long as my bike starts when I need it to. And given all the discussion that we're still having and the fact that even with the "new" clutch design it's still clearly faulty, I no longer have any confidence in this motor.

And to make matter worse, they haven't even had replacement parts in the country at least the last couple of times it has failed and I've been without my bike for 2 - 4 weeks. That's just not acceptable.

Anyway, I was in at my dealer test riding a few other things today and it appears that my sprag was fitted today, but test ride wasn't done, so looks like I'll be back there in the morning to pick it up. Then the dealer and I will be finishing our refund discussion... Tested out an S1000R today and must say that I'm very tempted. It certainly doesn't have the looks of the Brutale, but it is very smooth and would probably make a much more comfortable commuter. Still undecided tho. Need to try a few more bikes.
 

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I'm at ~13,500 miles on my 2015 Dragster, and I just got my 4th sprag today. They've failed like terrible clockwork every 3,000 miles or so, and I've had a Yuasa battery in the bike for most of that time.
 

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Actually found one from the net. Looks just like the Ducati`s one in late 1990`s, i mean the inner ring surface, gets somehow "chewed". In 2006 changed the last sprag, the update came with a new sprag and starter solenoid. The solenoid was believed to have contributed, giving uneven power through it. Dont know about the MV`s solenoids though. All i can say that the sprag in question lasted more than 85k.
 
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