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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got my F41000R in April and love it!
Yes there are few bits that could be better, eg throttle and weight but the big problem is over heating. If it's moving fine, stop at a set of lights on a cool day and the temp shots up over 100! Solution so far is don't stop for red lights!
Any Oz riders have a solution? I've been thinking of a new coolant out called Liquid Ice? Not sure where to get it yet or maybe buying the new water pump and impeller kit from MV.
Any thoughts?

Ian
 

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i've heard that the liquid ice you mentioned works ok, i wouldn't worry about the temp untill it starts getting up around 110 - 112, the thermo fan should be working by then any way
 

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Hi Ian,
I received my F4 in April as well and noticed temps of up to 105-107 when stopped at lights. It also didn't like the coolant that it came with and spat most of it out the overflow. However I replaced it will Silkolene coolant which immediately let it run 3-4 degrees cooler.
Its obviously been much cooler riding temps over winter and this has also seen my MV running in the 88-94 whilst moving and sometimes just breaks 100 when at the lights.
I am told be nearly everyone that removing the Catalytic converter out of your exhaust will also help it run a touch cooler, which is my next step with a full exhaust upgrade.
Apart from that I'm waiting till the warmer weather comes back in a few months to see if the bike struggles to keep within operating temps. If it cant, then it will most likely have to be a new water impeller/pump upgrade, or as some people have mentioned, additional fans or fan upgrades.

I hope that helps a little....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info.
I have been told it runs cooler when it is fully run in also.
The highest I saw was 14'C and the numbers started flashing....I got moving again as soon as this happened and it dropped to the high 90's.
Oh those Italians do like to keep us on our feet!
 

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I plan on getting the moto corse water pump upgrade on my 1000S before the next aussie summer sets in! also liquid ice is meant to help considerably but i have been unable to find a local supplier in Tas or somewhere online so far
 

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Im using engine ice now on the F4. But it's winter in Aust. So i will wait untill summer to see how it really works.
I got the product in elizaberth st (yamaha dealership) in melb.
 

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I'm in brisbane, in summer I have to turn the bike off every time I stop. Flashing temperature gauge at every light, or in heavey traffic. Even now (winter if you can call it that) it over heats. Check the forum for lee's post on what he did to fix the problem. I have purchased 2 1098 fans. Still haven't fitted them, I am runing the engine ice, makes a small difference.

Once you moving along it isn't a problem, it's just getting out there!!
 

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Removing the Cat doesn't do much either. I have a decat link pipe and Riding House open cans. Still overheats up here in Queensland. Generally gets up to about 106 at lights. Not too much of a concern. The thing I don't like is the coolant coming out the overflow when you stop. Not sure whats going on there. I know its not really a lot and the level looks OK in the resevoir but its still unsettling just the same.
My plan is to get one of the aftermarket impellors, flush the system and run Engine Ice.
 

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I finally got my F41000R in April and love it!
...Solution so far is don't stop for red lights!
Ian your solution is about the best, don't stop ride it as intended then there is no problem.

I've survived Sydney summers. Our house is silly enough to have two MV F4's (a hers 1000S and a his 1000R - its a long story and I won't go there).

When moving at 50 - 60km/h or more both bikes run at near identical temperatures (about 90 deg). If we stop at an intersection (say a red light), the temperature rise will be in unison between the two bikes (say to 101 deg).

However when we take off with the elevated temperature and get stopped 1km down the road her bike will have recovered to 92 deg and the 1000R will still be reading 99 deg.

Simply the 1000R (and newer) don't seem to recover very well once they get hot.

My solution (in addition to not riding in traffic - this is a weekend toy) is to switch the engine off at intersections where I'll have to wait.

This year I fitted a set of RG3 pipes (and the appropriate race ECU), the ECU is supposed to richen the mid-range and eliminate the dip at 5000rpm (don't tell the greenies). More fuel should have dramatic effects on the combustion temperature (i.e. cooling - as the bike is very lean in stock form) which should in turn help the overheating issue.

The pipes are much louder than the stock and since I've fitted them I haven't been out in an oppressively hot day (+35 deg). The set-up does seem to recover better though (mainly from the ECU I think), however this is not a complete solution. I never removed the cat converter.

This is not a unique problem to MV, many bikes struggle in the summer here just the MV seems more suceptible than others - cheapest and easiest is to ride around the problem.

Andrew...
 

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MV is offering a new, higher flow water pump that solves the over heating problem once and for all. Check with your dealer. It may be a warranty replacement. Worst case, the dealer should be able to order the new pump. Just make sure you also get the recommended stronger clamps for the hoses attached to the pump since the new unit operates with a lot more pressure.

I have one on my F4 and the bike runs cool even if it's not moving!
 

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Well i read these threads about overheating and it appears my 1078 wants to run the hottest. You guys with 1000s and r don't seem to have any where near the amount of stress on the system.

I can't believe how cool CashDawg and mike's 1078 run. I'm Jealous!

Before the muzzy fans and the impeller it was really at the stage of being unrideable. Adelaide is notorious for being overegulated with traffic lights and they are not very far apart. I'm sure that contributes because the bike doesn't get a chance to get some free air through it for a long enough period.

The impeller did improve temps overall but my bike would still want to soar over 112c in hotter days. The impeller made it take longer to get there. Once the bike started hitting those temps, it was really reluctant to come down below 100c untill i really had a longer stretch at about 80k/h.

So for me , the third fan has been the only real solution. It's dropped the temps by 10c in the hotter range and in fact has made the bike's dynamic range quite stable. It oscillates between 87c and 102c no matter what the situation after the bike is properly warmed up... not just sitting in the garage.

Isn't heat soak a problem? I would be pee'd off having to stop and start the bike every time you get stuck at an intersection. I know sometimes there is no escape is there.. you just have to wait for the light change. in Adelaide it's a pain with some being 5 or 6-way intersections.. so you wait ... and wait and Blah Blah

Check out Fanzilla (son of) if you haven't seen it before.

http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23190


Stiv
 

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Hi Stiv,

That mod you and Lee have both done looks great and sounds like it has s dramatic effect of both your bikes.
I have only put 1000k's on my bike so far ad its due for its 1st service. I am going to contact the dealership this week to find out whether the upgraded water impeller can be supplied and installed under warranty? As the bike is usually on the NSW north coast and summer here tends to bring some higher temps and humidity, so I'd like to be prepared well in advance.
However, if my bike does start reaching higher temps I will definitely be modifying the existing fans, and adding a third as you have done. I also really like the idea of having the discreet override switch.
On that note if it comes to that I may be asking you for a lot of help, or to be pointed in the right direction of someone that can install it, as when it comes to wiring, relays, ecu...etc i'm not the most confident.

cheers

Ash
 

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Hi Stiv,

That mod you and Lee have both done looks great and sounds like it has s dramatic effect of both your bikes.
I have only put 1000k's on my bike so far ad its due for its 1st service. I am going to contact the dealership this week to find out whether the upgraded water impeller can be supplied and installed under warranty? As the bike is usually on the NSW north coast and summer here tends to bring some higher temps and humidity, so I'd like to be prepared well in advance.
However, if my bike does start reaching higher temps I will definitely be modifying the existing fans, and adding a third as you have done. I also really like the idea of having the discreet override switch.
On that note if it comes to that I may be asking you for a lot of help, or to be pointed in the right direction of someone that can install it, as when it comes to wiring, relays, ecu...etc i'm not the most confident.

cheers

Ash


I've mentioned the new MV impeller to the agents here too. They didn't know about it. It will be interesting to get Feeney's response. I'm not holding my breath or expecting a refund either.

As far as the fan.... No probs. Happy to help with whatever you need if you do it.

Stiv
 

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i have already ordered my HO impeller and cover. MV australia know about it, but do not know how long it will be until i get it, was a little over $300 aud for both. hopefully it should solve to heat issue. as for the coolent over flow, i have used a red bull can to collect it, the way you race prep a bike so i don't have the coolent pissing out all over my fairings
 

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Has anyone tried ceramic coating the headers to transfer some of the heat away from the engine?
 

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Engine Ice is the way to go for a quick and easy (part)solution. You'll find it in most bike shops, certainly no probs here in Brisbane. It's dropped the temp on my F4 740 quite a bit, it does still on occasion spew a bit out after turning the engine off.
 
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