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Discussion Starter #1
I have read in some reviews that the 910 can suffer from an abrupt or on/off like throttle response, which can really unsettle the bike midturn if your not careful. Is this true? if so will a power commander and dyno time fix this? What are the differences here compared to 750s?
Just going through the decision making process, your comments are much appreciated. Cheers.
 

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It seems most modern MV's (and many other makes of bikes) suffer from the on-off herky jerkies.

It is a combination of the quick response of FI, poor initial fuel mapping, and light engine mass that amplifies this situation.
Good dealer set up such as good throttle body balance, TPS, and proper CO set up can help this.

Since many dealers do not do this, or cannot do this, or won't do this forces owners to find remedies.

Aftermarket items can help in many ways, but figuring out how to properly set them up also presents problems.

Good dealers, or good aftermarket items can fix any problem.

Guess which one I like? :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Airfuel. I understand then your in the tuning game. So you have seen good results then with the 910? My 750s responded sweetly to PC3 & mapping, just curious before making the choice between another 750 or 910.
Would appreciate your input.
 

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my dealer citymotocycles in belgium wrote the first mapping for MV Agusta (they bought it from them)
so i guess im good with my dealer :naughty:

the on/off is something you have to like (witch i certenly do)
my previous bike was a Cagiva Raptor 1000 and had the same character

BUT !!!!!!!
the most importent thing in fastbike driving is : THROTTLE CONTROL
you must master this if you want smooth driving with MV Agusta
(750-910-1000)

wanne know more about throttle control ? buy the 2 books of Keith Code :
The Twist Of The Wrist 1 and 2

Throttle control is THE most important thing in high speed moto driving

aftermarket products are fine, but they do not improve the driving skills of the driver himself

I would certenly recommend to read these books (you will be thankfull to me later)
 

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having just done Keith Code school the most important thing I took away was: once you have the lean angle set roll the throttle on through the rest of the turn. On and off throttle generally speaking is just bad technique
 

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Mika said:
having just done Keith Code school the most important thing I took away was: once you have the lean angle set roll the throttle on through the rest of the turn. On and off throttle generally speaking is just bad technique
40/60 weight transfer, happy suspension makes a stable turn.

I also remember it... great class. :)
 

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721 said:
Thanks Airfuel. So you have seen good results then with the 910?
My 910R had a strange feeling when going back on the throttle.

When slowely rolling back on, the bike felt like it actually slowed or paused before picking up power. I carefully mapped the small throttle positions,
(0-2-5% throttle) and it greatly improved.
More carefull mapping will happen when I get the full exhaust. :naughty:

John T
 

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Your getting excellent advise, from the guys. Engine performance aside, Here are some of the things I've learned over the years.

If your wanting to go fast in the corners, steady as she goes is a must. Get your down shifting and breaking done in a straight line. Get your self to a suitable RPM to run approx 1/2 throttle through the corner, after apex increase throttle after you begin pivoting the bike back up, and then your ready to nail the next gear at corner exit.

One more key thing for corners, look where you want to go. If your moving faster than you feel you can handle bend your neck and look past the corner down the road a bit do not look at the approaching edge of the road / track surface you will go where you look :eek: and only a slight roll off of the throttle, but continue to look where you wish to end up.

and another thing if you apply pressure (a slight push) to your left grip for a left turn the bike will pivot toward the pavement and help you corner, same for right side!

Homer
 

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Homer said:
and another thing if you apply pressure (a slight push) to your left grip for a left turn the bike will pivot toward the pavement and help you corner, same for right side!

Homer
that is counter steering :smoking: (twist of the wrist)
 

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Hi Guys,

The riding technique discussion is undenaibly useful but you will still experience abruptness from early throttle input. To work around the problem you have to seriously modulate the clutch and spend a lot of time and effort learning to fine tune the throttle input with your right hand. All of this can be fixed in <45mins.

As airfuel said you need a base set up. The more emails and pm's I receive on the subject the more amazed I am at dealers who completely LACK an exhaust gas analyzer or who state they 'tune by ear' for throttle body balance and trim. :laughing: I guess I'd ask what the a/f ratio was they smelled in that case :laughing:

If there is no dealer who can do this WELL then take it upon yourself. It is your riding that is affected by this. It is not a problematic or broken mechanical operation. Unless it is original and stalling it is not a warranty issue. $300 US in tools and they are yours forever. The process is simple and drift happens so you'll want to keep on top of it. Maybe CO% every two oil changes/valves and Throttle bodies balanced every oil change.

Optimize once; get your valves/tps(prob only once)/ throttle bodies/CO% set up and then buy a PCIII and custom dyno work by someone who knows what they are doing. After the PCIII stay on top of the bike, especially throttle bodies.

I use:

Throttle bodies-
http://www.carbtune.com/

CO%-
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=5247&keyword=46240

There are many reviews and articles around about the resolution and accuracy of the gunson.


Maybe I should add these tools into their respective FAQ articles...
 

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Blackie,

Good books! yes counter steering!

I cut my riding teeth on an Aprilla 250 GP. that thing went over the scales at slightly over 200 lbs and made ~90whp. Very pipie ride which ran best with in a 2500 rpm range. Throttle control was the key to fast laps. Also ran a duck with a big wide torque range.

So what am I getting at? every bike is different! I'm an old schooler Freddy Spenser or Mercier use to say something like most mechanical issues are just excuses for not going fast.

learn to adapt to what the bike wants / asks you for and ride the heck out of it!

Homer
 

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I just passed the 200 mile mark on my new 910, and had thought that I was imagining the throttle issue (as I had not been riding in a while). I think that my throttle control is good enough in the corners that I don't have the issue there. I find it most irritating and unsettling at low speeds in stop and go traffic, where "the herky jerkies" is a very good description of the launch characteristics. I have had to modulate the clutch just perfectly to control it. It just isn't as smooth as I would have hoped for this fancy bike. :rolleyes:

Does anyone know if the folks at ProItalia in Los Angeles would be capable of addressing this properly? What is the proper way to describe the issue, and what should I specifically be asking them to do? Your collective expertise on the issue is much appreciated.
 

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JamesC said:
Hi Guys,
Optimize once; get your valves/tps(prob only once)/ throttle bodies/CO% set up and then buy a PCIII and custom dyno work by someone who knows what they are doing. After the PCIII stay on top of the bike, especially throttle bodies.
I learned also do not trust anyone! Keep looking what they are doiing.
I have seen skilled people just fumbling around with TPS and idle screws without thinking or consulting manuals. And they have the name to be outstanding guys in the bussiness.
So no human is without failures or lack of concentration or even a bad day for whatever reason! It's your bike you should be in control as you pay for it!!
 

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Brutish said:
Does anyone know if the folks at ProItalia in Los Angeles would be capable of addressing this properly? What is the proper way to describe the issue, and what should I specifically be asking them to do? Your collective expertise on the issue is much appreciated.
Short of putting on a PCIII and having the guys at L&L or Kelly Baker do the tuning, I'd say PI's not a bad bet. John French seems to be making a strong effort to turn it into the kind of shop where you want to take your bike for service. I just dropped mine off, today, for it's first maintenance and was treated nicely and with respect...and John's not even in town.

I have to say it was a very pleasant experience after dealing with their parts department--where they tried to charge me $40 for a part I wound up buying at a Triumph shop for $6, all the while acting like I should be thankful they're there to overcharge me.

-H
 

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giomanach - thanks for the insight. I have no reason to specifically go to PI - I just want it done right and don't want to overpay for the dealer if it's not necessary. Is there more that you can tell me about L&L or Kelly Baker? I am just not familiar with those places. Are they in LA? I live in Santa Monica, so it's a hike getting out to the heart of Glendale from here anyway.
 
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