View attachment 271185

This came up on today's ride home about 2 mile from the dealers, quickshifter stopped working.
After stopping and turning it back on I got a warning "clutch switch" turned it back off and on again and then "PIN CODE" came up?!? Turned off and on and all checks came up fine? And just to rub salt in the wounds there was no one at the dealer who could look at it for me so it's booked in tomorrow for them to have a look at.
Keep you posted.
Bruce.

Keep us posted. At least you were able to get everything back on track... assuming the quick shifter started working again, after all checks came up fine?

 

Yes lion the quickshifter worked fine after it had been switched off and turned back on again before the actions of the above post.

 

Well dropped the bike off at the dealer today and they ran it through the diagnostics.
They found the clutch switch was faulty, seems to be a commonish fault on the Turismo brought on apparently when it runs hot, this makes sense to me as there is a lot of roadworks to sit in when I'm leaving work at the moment (unavoidable even on a bike) and it has been running hotter than usual whilst sitting in them. Dealer never had a clutch switch to replace it with and nether have Italy so it's a waiting game until they can get one, I was told it will not affect the running in anyway until it is replaced.
They cleared the faults and updated? the map and it is running sweet again. I had asked the dealer only last week if there was any map updates as it was running a bit rough and the answer was no new update, so that makes me think it was a map refresh rather than an update but I maybe wrong there as the software version in the menu is reading the same as before 1.03
As for the pin code that showed up, well that may have been me trying to pair the new iPhone app to the bike via Bluetooth, didn't work when I tried it, Sunday I think it was, but I will try to pair it again tomorrow and let you know if it's the same display I seen or not.
So this Lone Ranger is happy and silver is running like a stallion again.

Bruce

 

I've had PIN CODE come up three or four times now, scared the hell out of me the first time, I thought I would be stranded. Luckily I turned it off and then on again and it ran through the checks fine and was ready to go. PIN CODE is related to the immobiliser, according to the manual it comes up if it doesn't recognise the key. In that case, or in case of a malfunction, you have to enter the code supplied on a scratch card by the dealer with the manual. I'm going to reveal my number and store on my phone.

 

Yeah I have already stored it on my phone, it has only happened to me the once when I was at the dealers and I thought the exact same about getting stranded, I wasn't to worried when it happened as I can walk to my dealer in 5 minuets.

Doesn't it also refer to the Blutooth Pairing code?

I can't really answer that chuck as my Bluetooth module is goosed on the bike and I'm going to have to get it replaced, when I was pairing up the sat nav, intercoms and phone I was only asked for a BT code on my phone. Ironically that was the only thing that wouldn't pair no mater what number I entered.
Even though my sat nav and intercom was paired I could not control them through the Bluetooth menu on the bike. The dealer has told me he has already replaced a BT module on another Edition 1 so we decided it was the BT box rather than my inept tech skills.
The card r6mym is talking about has 3 separate codes on it 2 are uncovered and are for the serial number which is an 8 figure number, a second code is called the mechanical code and is a 4 figure number and an electrical code again a 4 figure number which is hidden under a scratch card type security sticker.
When the PIN CODE comes up on the dash it has 1 through to 0 underneath and I presumed it was the immobiliser code it was asking for but like r6mym after I had switched it on and back on all checks came up clear. You gotta love Italian electrics.

 

Doesn't it also refer to the Blutooth Pairing code?

 

The BT code is 0000 like most bikes and the like.
The card is to replace your key if you lose both of them.
The immobilizer code is the one that pops up (I get it all the time), it's on the little metal tag on one of your keys.

The problem seems to be common to bike with key based immobilizers, when you get RF interference during the start up cycle, it thinks the key isn't there. I'd suggest making sure your phone and everything else BT/Wifi/RF based isn't near the bike when starting it. Obviously, that's not sustainable but worth verifying. Used to happen with my 2012 MTS and keeping my phone away from the bike when I turned it on made a difference.

 

If it makes you feel any better....all the bikes with "cutting edge" electronics are enjoying random foibles......doesn't help that most motorcycle techs are not at the highest level of digital technology capabilities.

So it isn't just a MV thing.....

 

There is a heads-up device for radar detecotrs called H.A.R.D.. This device, when near a Harley Davidson, will disable the ability of the HD to start.....:jsm:

 

Hey....I have one of those paired with my Passport Radar Detector.....that's cool. I think I'll cruise around with it on and sit in "Biker Bar" parking lots just to see what happens!!!

Thanks...this could be FUN...opcorn:

 

I was rather funny when my co-workers and I were in the parking lot and the HD guy couldn't start his bike until my Ducati riding friend left...

 

If it's stopping a Harley starting, you're probably doing the owner a favor. #BaDumTsss

Seriously though, it's no big surprise, they'll figure it out at some point. Until then, the *features* we buy these bikes with are just a checkbox, not a reason to buy.

 

Starting to think I need a bike with carbs. And a kick start......

 

View attachment 271185

This came up on today's ride home about 2 mile from the dealers, quickshifter stopped working.
After stopping and turning it back on I got a warning "clutch switch" turned it back off and on again and then "PIN CODE" came up?!? Turned off and on and all checks came up fine? And just to rub salt in the wounds there was no one at the dealer who could look at it for me so it's booked in tomorrow for them to have a look at.
Keep you posted.
Bruce.

Hi Red800,

Was the issue fixed with a new clutch switch?

I bought a TV800 and first ride home, I get the same error: engine oil light and the quickshifter stops working. I'm in Brisbane, Australia and it's summer at the moment, so certainly hot. Im not impressed to say the least. I traded a BMW GS which was faultless, and I can't even ride home from the dealers without an issue with the MV.

 

Hi Red800,



Was the issue fixed with a new clutch switch?



I bought a TV800 and first ride home, I get the same error: engine oil light and the quickshifter stops working. I'm in Brisbane, Australia and it's summer at the moment, so certainly hot. Im not impressed to say the least. I traded a BMW GS which was faultless, and I can't even ride home from the dealers without an issue with the MV.

Yes I had the switch replaced and not had an issue with it since, before it was changed it did come back on, (stopping the qs from working again) when I was sitting in traffic but it cleared itself when I got out the traffic and it cooled down a bit, my bike normally runs just below halfway on the temp gauge.
Hope you manage to get it sorted and it doesn't dampen your enthusiasm for the bike, it is a new bike and I'm prepared for a few niggles, but not to many hopefully.

Forgot to quote you mate.

 

Yes I had the switch replaced and not had an issue with it since, before it was changed it did come back on, (stopping the qs from working again) when I was sitting in traffic but it cleared itself when I got out the traffic and it cooled down a bit, my bike normally runs just below halfway on the temp gauge.
Hope you manage to get it sorted and it doesn't dampen your enthusiasm for the bike, it is a new bike and I'm prepared for a few niggles, but not to many hopefully.

 

Thanks - here's hoping they fix it! My bike runs at about two thirds on the temp gauge. It's not even that hot here at the moment...

 

Said it before and I'll say it again. The stock battery is a waste of space.

 

I'm addicted to these now:

http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/brand/deka/

Converted years ago after looking for a starting solution for my old Honda. These AGM batteries are the answer. Higher cranking amps and they don't lose much power just sitting around in your garage. I wouldn't put anything else in my motorbikes now.

These things should be standard equipment on all motorcycles.

 

Wow are those weights for real?

 

Hmm. Never noticed that they are on the heavy side. You can get lighter batteries for sure. For me, the fact that they are the most reliable, longest lasting, easiest starting batteries I've ever used is the main consideration.

They may be heavy but I never end up push-starting so it doesn't matter! :naughty:

YMMV.

 

Looks like my bike has developed the clutch switch issue. On the way to and from the London motorcycle show, heavy traffic but air temperature only 5C, bike was running hot, around two thirds on temperature gauge. Managed to stall it and it wouldnt restart in first with the clutch pulled in. Later I had the engine check warning light on, cleared after 15 minutes, then came on again later. Quickshifter stopped working, traction control said off. Then saw clutch switch error message on dash. After we stopped for a break and the bike cooled down everything worked fine again for the rest of the journey.

 

Sounds a lot like the battery not keeping up once the fans kick in, I've heard this a lot on the new bikes. Are you still running the standard battery ?

 

Clutch switch replaced again today. Fingers crossed it solves the problem.

 

Sounds a lot like the battery not keeping up once the fans kick in, I've heard this a lot on the new bikes. Are you still running the standard battery ?

Yes, standard battery. Hasn't been used for a few weeks but has been plugged into the battery conditioner. Is there a recommended upgrade?

 

Bigger battery on TV



The TV has a larger capacity battery than the other 3 cyl platforms, 11ah so should have a bit more resilience than the YTS10 8.6ah in the others.

Always been a fan of Yuasa batteries, but even Halfords offer decent batteries for bikes these days.

 

I upgraded to a yuassa,
http://www.yuasa.co.uk/batteries/mo.../batteries/motorcycle-power-sport/high-performance-maintenance-free/ytz14s.html
To be honest I didn't have any problems with the BS one although I always thought it was a lazy starter, the upgrade to the yuassa didn't make any noticeable difference in that department.
I wasn't sure about the MV lithium upgrade, not sure it would be suited to the UK weather for an all season bike!!

 

Started my b3 after a frosty night today. I have the lithium. First stab on the button it felt sluggish and didn't start. Second stab the battery had warmed up a bit and it started straight away. Had the lithium a year now. I don't start it every day, sometimes not for weeks. I've never charged it and the bike has never not started.

 

That's good to know jono, I've never had experience with one before and thought it was a fair bit to lay out on the unknown, no one I spoke to could give me any decent advice as to whether they would be any good for the turismo or not.

 

Here's a perfect example of how a Lithium battery operates in extreme cold temps Bruce.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfvR1EJJBk

 

Thanks for that Donsy, I'll keep it in mind for next time.

 

Very interesting, looks like lithium actually works better than lead acid in cold temperature once you adapt to the different characteristics. Only problem is I have an optimate and the MV charger and I don't think either are compatible with lithium batteries