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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #3
Go through the electrical troubleshooting guide before you even remove it.....
Yep, definitely the alternator. Out she comes.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep, definitely the alternator. Out she comes.....
Well despite 15 years of experience building engines, racing engines, touring engines, the quality of the diagnosis suffered from the quality of the testing. Dang!
The cute thing about the fuses I have is you can continuity test them across the top of the fuse without removing them.
Turns out that although the 40 charging fuse was continuous, a problem with one of the contacts rendered it useless. You can see here where corrosion/erosion/electrolysis??? created a dialetric fissure that caused the fault. It's rather deep.
 

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I've seen that, not uncommon in 4x4's who see a lot of moisture or camper trailers and vibration.
I recently help a member in the UK who had the wires corroded away behind the r/h side fuse holder, but he kept testing the fuse and insisted everything was fine.
Bloody electrics, I hydraulics are so much easier.
 

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wtf???.

PSSST,
Use Dielectric grease on all electrical connections.......
I live 3 blocks from the Pacific Ocean and have ZERO ISSUES EVER

:wink2:
 

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Honestly after all of the fun I had at that track last season Im going to just disassemble everything and pack dielectric grease inside it all.
Make sure your connections are clean first. I used a corrosion protectant on a late model Jeep and it blocked the turn signal from working a few months later. Then had to take apart and clean and re spray. Been fine since then. GL
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Guys, this connector had dialectric grease to no avail.
I use a clear silicone grease that I have on hand for lubing o-ring assemblies.
 
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