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Discussion Starter #1
on the F4, can the airbox be removed w/o taking off the front nose piece?

i know it's not that much extra work, but i'd like to just get the tank and the airbox off so i can adjust the idle screw. after a CO adjustment, she's running a touch fast at idle (1400), and i want to give that screw a turn to bring the rpm down

alex

(so there's one bad design point on this bike)
 

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altoon said:
on the F4, can the airbox be removed w/o taking off the front nose piece?

i know it's not that much extra work, but i'd like to just get the tank and the airbox off so i can adjust the idle screw. after a CO adjustment, she's running a touch fast at idle (1400), and i want to give that screw a turn to bring the rpm down

alex

(so there's one bad design point on this bike)
No is the answer. To remove the airbox you need to go through the whole process, nose cone, air ducts etc.

One thing though if you want to adjust the idle, there is no need to remove the airbox, get a long straight screw driver, remove the tank, locate the screw and adjust accordingly. Make sure you do not touch the screw marked with yellow paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the tip.
the yellow colored screw is the balance between 1/2 and 3/4 throttles. right?

alex
 

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Discussion Starter #5
turns out there are TWO idle set screws. it's a hammer-anvil setup, where one screw is the hammer, and the other the anvil.

the "hammer" screw is on the trottle linkage. on my F4, this one is turned all the way in. so i can only adjust the RPM higher but turning this one.

the "anvil" is on the throttle body frame. using that one i could have set the idle down. unfortunately, getting at that one requires removing the airbox. so, i'll have to wait to get at it.

what bums me out is that i have no idea how far to turn it. I need to take like 150-200 rpm out of the idle. how many turns is that? 1/3, 1/4, 1? who knows?

sure as hell wish there was an easier way to get in there and adjust it. nothing in the manual is listed on this. i have a VERY hard time believing that MV can just put that idle screw at a fixed position for every bike they make. how do they adjust it during manufacturing?

alex
 

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Hi Alex,

The location of the screw is between cylinder 2 and 3, the screw that needs adjusting is the right screw, please see the attached screenshot from the MV manual.

Let us know if this is of any help.

You should be able to access this screw without removing the airbox, you just need a long flat screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
eMoto UK said:
Hi Alex,

The location of the screw is between cylinder 2 and 3, the screw that needs adjusting is the right screw, please see the attached screenshot from the MV manual.

Let us know if this is of any help.

You should be able to access this screw without removing the airbox, you just need a long flat screwdriver.
Thanks for the info. I think I understand the procedure now. The idle position is set using the TPS sensor to measure how many degrees the throttle is open. So, if I mess with the anvil, which I've pointed to in the photo below, I'm going to mess up the factory settings.

I'm not sure what my options are at this point. The bike is a little fast on the idle (~1400 rpm). I've moved the CO to 4.0% to smooth out the low rpm metering, which it did. But now I need to get the idle back down to 1200 rpm.

I did actually get at and turn the set screw you indicate in that photo (the one you attached), but it was fully at the stop. By turning that screw to the right, which i could do, it would increase the rpm (open the throttle). I needed to turn it to the left but it was already fully seated, and could not be turned.

At this point, I may just dial the CO back to the factory setting.

Just curious, but after you guys do a CO adjustment, do you ever see the idle speed change?

Thanks for all the information and help!

Alex

 

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Discussion Starter #10
actually, that's the procedure i followed (on the FAQ).

i'm kinda stumped at this point. i'll let you know what i do.

alex
 
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