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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I am Alfredo from Hickory North Carolina: could anyone tell me the steps to relace the air filter on my f4? I tried to lift the rear seat, the gas tank, but the front air filter box still does not desengage. Any help around?
Thanks
Alfredo
 

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Alfredo, I didn't replace my air filter, but I did get to it by removing the seat, gas tank (be careful with the quick disconnects) and I think there were 2 bolts holding the air box on (seems to me they were pretty obvious; maybe under the black, crescent -shaped covers on the sides of the air box?). Then it just lifts off the throttle bodies (you did take off the ignition switch cover/loosen the steering damper, right?). This is on an F4-1000, but I imagine it's the same on a 750. Why do you want to replace it? Mine has a cleanable/re-oilable Twin Air filter.
P.S. If you do take off the little black covers I was talking about, be real careful with the well nuts that hold them on. If they come apart, the nut could go into the intake.
Joe
 

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Air Filter Replacement

Found this, should help:

1) Lift the seat - unclip the tail light cable, take off the small rubber tops from the seat hinge pins, remove the pins and take the seat off.

2) Take off the silver side covers.

3) Remove the rear tank bolt - next to the seat hinge.

4) Carefully pull the tank up and back - not too far as the hoses are still attached underneath.

5) Ideally you will have an able assistant at this point to unclip the two fuel lines - just squeeze the clips - and pull off the tank overflow pipe. It can be done solo if you are feeling brave.

6) Now you can remove the tank - have somewhere padded to store it and make sure it cant fall over - best to do this with as little fuel as possable as it can be quite heavy.

7) Remove the intake covers from the sides of the airbox - the triangular plastic things that you realy want to change for carbon at some point.

The fairing removal steps can be avioded if you are careful but you do run a small risk of damaging the air intake tubes so I have described the safe way to do this - it sounds a lot but only takes a little longer and you can clean out all those nooks and crannies that gather dirt while your in there. (Non fairing removal - I can do this with my bike but it has aftermarket airtubes so may not work on all bikes - CAREFULLY pull the intake tubes sideways so that the are clear of the airbox openings then go to step 12)

8) Remove the fairing lowers.

9) Remove the allen bolt inside the fairing that holds the mirror stalks. Then the mirrors themselves - you could then undoo the wireing from the stay and take the mirrors off, but thats a bit fiddly and aslong as you are careful you can leave them hanging.

10) you can now remove the top fairing.

11) take off the electics cover plates on top of the airtubes and then remove these aswell.

12) remove the bolt either side of the airbox and this can then be removed.

13) turn it over - pull the tape off and you can now slide out the airfilter.

14) refitting is reverse of above (as Haynes would say)

15) be very carfull when refitting the inlet covers as the well nuts on these are prone to falling appart - if they show any signs of damage on removal then REPLACE THEM, it would be best if you get yourself 4 new ones before you start. If the do fall appart they will drop staight into the throttle intakes and can bend valves!

Final bit of advise - it's not as hard as this description perhaps sounds and you realy get a nice understanding of how the bike is constucted when you see it stipped down like this. Just take it slow, have plenty of space to lay all the bodywork out. This is where it can get damaged - when the kids and the dog decide to stomp all over it and knock your tank over etc.

Final disclaimer - AT YOUR OWN RISK - I will NOT be accepting 4 figure claims from anyone for damaged - lost - stolen - or dog chewed bodywork. If you are not confident about picking up tools then DON'T you are putting yourself/your property/your sanity all at risk.

-- Mark M ([email protected]), April 01, 2004.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello Guys and thank you for your answers: they are very detailed and helpfull but at this point I prefer to take it to a dealer and replace the air filter.....why am I replacing it? Simply because I want to install a "performance" air filter made by "fast by ferracci": it is a BMC filter that apparently would improve the torque at high revs... I have already changed the mid-pipe, slip-ons, eprom and with the replacement of the air filter I'll be done for a while. My bike is now nearing 160 hp at the rear wheel. I am completely amazed by the power this machine has....yesterday I had a chance to ride a Suzuki GSXR 1000: beautifull machine, very powerfull and fast but nothing, I mean nothing like my f4. I just purchased my bike 3 weeks ago and have only 1000 miles in it... I have yet to take it above 9000 rpm's and I can only say I cannot imagine how much power the f4 has once I can pull it to 13500 ( rev limiter at that point ). Thanks again for all your help.
 

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Thanks for the detailed description. The workshop manual provided on MvAgusta.net is pretty good too. I'm just wondering how necessary it is to replace the silver tape over the air filter or is there another product that can be used. And what about the grease on the rubbers on the throttle bodies. Btw I know now how necessary it is to replace the well nuts, mine were in very poor condition indeed, after 5000km's!
 

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re well nuts....

well nuts are service parts......

the rear well nuts in the injector covers MUST BE REPLACED

the best replacements are RIVNUTS in the rear holes

a wellnut failure can send a chunk of brass down #1 or #4 intakes usually destroying the motor

see my thread "Avoiding Wellnut Disasters"

they are M4 x 0.7mm

:popcorn:
 

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Thanks for the detailed description. The workshop manual provided on MvAgusta.net is pretty good too. I'm just wondering how necessary it is to replace the silver tape over the air filter or is there another product that can be used. And what about the grease on the rubbers on the throttle bodies!
I've not found a replacement that lasts, so I use the similar kind of tape, otherwise the airfilter oil runs out the bottom looking a bit messy.
I put rubber or silicone grease on the rubbers.
 

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tape?

3M foil tape to the rescue.......it's the real deal

I use waterproof grease for the air horn gaskets.......its just a bit of sealant
 
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