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Discussion Starter #1
My 2015 TV has the on/off issue some reported. My bike is in for major service. It might be an easy fix but if it's busted i might need to replace the clutch. She's bleeding me dry anyways. :) (Suspension, BDS carrier, ECU, exhaust, tailtidy)

Since i don't know much about clutches i don't know which one would be best for road use. Don't care much for a slipper clutch but don't hate them either. So if buying a new one which one should it be? And what's the difference?
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Why do you think the clutch needs to be replaced? I put my TC on 1 and am not having the scratchy starts as often when cold.
 

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Are you mechanical? Can you inspect your own clutch? If your clutch is bled and your recalls are up to date then it's most likely your anti-judder spring, warped plates or weak springs... It's not too difficult you just have to have a few tools.

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your reactions.

I'm not thinking it needs to be replaced i'm just preparing for bad news. If something went sour i want a replacement asap. I have TC off. Things did get a little bit better after i sorted out the low RPM lean fueling.

I thought about pulling it apart but she needs valve checking anyways. Work for the mechanic.
I agree it's probably a plate issue. Don't think it's a hammered drum since that feels different, is more consitent and more a problem when the engine is cold. This is more an issue when the engine is hot.
 

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I just dont want you (or anyone) to shell out money for no reason. These bikes have problems but if all the checks are made and you have to replace a part then go right ahead. But a 100hp TV doesn't need high end clutch. It's not a track bike. Your using the quick shifter 95% of the time and you just want a smooth engagement. I'd fix stock. There's nothing faster than swapping out a worn plate with a plate right next to it if indeed that is a contributing factor.

If your having your valves inspected go with a manual tensioner. He's already in there.

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm going down the cheapest path.
Which tensioner did you get? I see the 2017+ is 300,- dollar which is quite steep. I also came across a PT900-Pro which is a lot cheaper.
 

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The reason I didnt get a pt900pro is because it has a smaller contact area where the plunger pushes against the chain guide. I bought one from a seller off of ebay that makes them in Utah not China. For you since you live on the other side of the world I'd go with a genuine polaris replacement part.


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Discussion Starter #8
The reason I didnt get a pt900pro is because it has a smaller contact area where the plunger pushes against the chain guide. I bought one from a seller off of ebay that makes them in Utah not China. For you since you live on the other side of the world I'd go with a genuine polaris replacement part.


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Thanks, i'm going to check what part is currently fitted. Bike is now off to the suspension guru for some upgrades. I think i'm going for a used automatic (non-hydraulic) B3/4 or F3/4 tensioner.
 
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