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The manual says to take my TV to an authorized dealer when the chain needs adjusting. I'm not great at mechanical things but I can adjust a chain if I have the instructions. I don't see an obvious way to do it. I looked online and in this forum with no luck. Any one worked up some step by steps on how to adjust the chain?

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The manual says to take my TV to an authorized dealer when the chain needs adjusting. I'm not great at mechanical things but I can adjust a chain if I have the instructions. I don't see an obvious way to do it. I looked online and in this forum with no luck. Any one worked up some step by steps on how to adjust the chain?

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Well, it is not that complex, but you need a torque wrench which fits in the available space to tighten the rear hub properly. Have a look to the workshop manual which is available in one of the @Donsy post in this forum, and you'll find the instructions (you should find it here)
 

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Adjusting the chain is simple....but if the hub is moved a long way the ride height will change. You won't move the hub that much for small adjustments.

Loosen the 2 hub pinch bolts on the rear of the swing arm, use the large C spanner that came in the tool kit to rotate the hub in the swing arm to achieve proper chain free play. Tighten pinch bolts.

Important !!! Do NOT over tighten the chain. A little loose is better then too tight. Check free play in multiple locations as you rotate the rear wheel.

Do NOT over tighten the pinch bolts. Low side of torque spec is best.
 

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Isn't there a label on the swing arm with the spec.??
 

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Out of interest, and perhaps of importance to Pockomoth, does the 800 follow the manual torque settings for Hub Pinch Bolts, or does the F4 advice of 20-22Nm apply?

The documentation is indicating 28 ÷ 32 Nm for the tightening of the rear hub
 

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The documentation is indicating 28 ÷ 32 Nm for the tightening of the rear hub
Yes, MST, as does the documentation for the F4s. However, there have been numerous posts (by Mitchy, the knurl, and silentservice703 - as I recall) cautioning owners of F4s to NOT adhere to the factory spec, but to torque only to 20 -22 Nm. From what I can gather from various threads, hub problems emanate from complying with the factory spec. One such thread is this one: http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/20-maintenance-tech-issues-all-4-cyl-models/169281-another-hub-bites-dust-5.html

My point was that if we can alert a new member to a matter that has surfaced through knowledge and experience, we could avert an expensive problem.
 

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Since my name has been invoked here, I will add my $0.02 US: First Generation hubs had an issue with crushing the bearing race when full pinch bolt torque was applied. Second Generation hubs (2010 and onward) were beefed up and the bearing were changed to a better configuration. This made the pinch bolt torque warning moot for 2010 and onward models.

Of course, anyone who has installed a Mitchy Hub or done the conversion to a 2010 and later hub, or installed a Design Corse Hub for that matter, has naught to worry about.

In short, if your bike is manufactured after 2010 you can go with the factory recommendation.
 

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Thanks ss703 - much more valuable than 2 cents worth!

In the various threads I'd read (and I'm still finding others) I thought it was a 'blanket rule' for all F4s - not just first gen. It was that scenario that prompted my initial post as to whether it also applied to 800s. Thanks for embellishing and clarifying; might have helped more than just me. Cheers! (Perhaps I should just buy a Mitchy Hub and bale out of this conjecture for ever!:grin2:. Will send some PMs to enquire.)
 

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With the pinch bolt torque discussion now rendered moot.

The second most important item to observe is:
Perform the inspection/adjustment with the rear suspension (unloaded-no rider) at 1G.
That is do not use the vehicle's center stand; use the service stand.

And, as it has always been done.
Adjust the slack (as pictured in the pdf above) at the tightest section of the chain.
 

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Right out of the manual for you and anyone else


edit: I see Gero beat me to the real source..

My question is, If you do not own a rear stand (have the Lusso center stand) can one just do the measurement with the bike being held up straight with the rear wheel on the ground by an assistant? It would seem that the rear suspension is loaded similarly to being held up by a rear axle stand. The problem would be that moving the rear wheel for multiple location measurements might be more challenging.
 

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My question is, If you do not own a rear stand (have the Lusso center stand)
can one just do the measurement with the bike being held up straight with the rear wheel on the ground by an assistant? It would seem that the rear suspension is loaded similarly to being held up by a rear axle stand.

The problem would be that moving the rear wheel for multiple location measurements might be more challenging.
Yes and yes is would.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks all for replies. Some questions:
1) I shouldn't use the center stand?
2) I have a front wheel chock, Will that suffice for the adjustment? I have no way to measure G forces on the rear wheel.
3) When I measure the slack, should I use OM recommendations measuring from the chain to the chain ramp above or the raised line slightly below that?

Thanks all for your help.

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Just below the white arrowhead is a small raised "rib" marking the measuring point on the swing arm, it's easier to feel than see. One of these days I might put some contrasting paint on it, although once you know it's there, it isn't a big deal.
 

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Thanks all for replies. Some questions:
1) I shouldn't use the center stand? NO
2) I have a front wheel chock, Will that suffice for the adjustment? NO. both wheels should be flat on the ground and the bike should be vertical. I have no way to measure G forces on the rear wheel. This doesn't matter.
3) When I measure the slack, should I use OM recommendations measuring from the chain to the chain ramp above or the raised line slightly below that?As the manual says:
to the line.

Thanks all for your help.

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Now, if you have a friend hold the bike vertical as you measure, that same friend can easily roll your bike to check multiple points on your chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah. No. It's hard to see which screws to loosen from the pic, I thought I had them but probably not, I'm almost stripping the adjustment knob trying to get it to move. I must have the wrong ones. Just got this thing, 300 miles on it, and this is the second trip to the shop. Hating it already...

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If you're not sure how to adjust a chain, maybe you SHOULD be taking it to a shop.
If I lived closer I would help. Maybe post in the general section to see if there are any forum members in your area?
 
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