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Old Wing Nut
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You do know that with modern o-ring chains all an oiler does is make a mess and attract dirt and grime to stick on your chain?
O-ring chains are sealed, and no oil penetrates into the bushings of the links. Just occasional cleaning with kerosene or even WD40 and a light coating of rust preventative (that same WD40) on the exterior is all that is needed to have an o-ring chain live a long and happy life.
All that accumulated grit and grime from oiling just wears out your sprockets more quickly, which then causes the chain to stretch.
 
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2012 Brutale 1090RR
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I just generally go with what the manufacturer recommends, but hey, I guess it could be just a huge money making conspiracy between the chain makers and the lube industry.
I guess you realise that the lube is actually FOR the o-rings right?

Maintenance | RK JAPAN (rk-japan.co.jp)

Please DO NOT use gasoline, kerosene, break cleaner, carburetor cleaner, or anti-rust lube as these would harm sealed ring and shorten the lifetime of the chain.
 

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It is well and truly proven cleaning with WD40 does absolutely no damage to the rubber o rings. That is what I have always cleaned with. Just a wipe over is enough. I would recommend a low fling lube like the Silkolene brand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have used these oilers before, they run very clean, and I also know how to clean a chain. What I know nothing about is the electrics on this bike, but thanks for all the advice on chains I guess.
 

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I have used these oilers before, they run very clean, and I also know how to clean a chain. What I know nothing about is the electrics on this bike, but thanks for all the advice on chains I guess.
No worries Trevor.
What problem does the oiler solve?

If you look here you should be able to find the manual with electrical diagram for your bike.


Cheers, Glenn
 

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2012 Brutale 1090RR
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The oiler is neither messy, nor solves a problem. It simply lubricates the chain automatically.
I seem to be the only person here to have ever fitted an electrical accessory, so thanks again all for the lovely chain discussion, I will figure out the power feed myself then.

Also having seen personally a bike do over 100,000klm on the OEM chain with an oiler fitted, I'll be going with life experience on that front.
 

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@Trevor68 - The safest way to add electrical circuits is by using an auxiliary fuse block. There are analog and digital models available.
These devices are powered directly from a battery post and provide fused links to whatever you want to power.



I have used the Centech unit on my Ducati Monster S4Rs
 

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Old Wing Nut
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He is looking for switched power.
There are a number of places to pick up switched power. One that has fairly high current capacity is the fuel pump. Should be a convenient location to tap for a chain oiler system too, being directly under the fuel tank.
 

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@esq'z me - Both of those units provide switched and unswitched power. You pick up the switch on signal from any lightly powered circuit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have seen and admired the fuzeblock before today, but had not seen the other one so thanks for that. Your right, they can be set to either switched or always on, but also present the same problem on install, where to power them up from switched power. I also worry about room, but they may fit.
I had one of these on my Benelli Trek 1130 previously, and just used the provided clip to connect it to the tail light wire.
3M Scotchlok Self-Stripping Moisture Resistant Electrical IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector) 804-BULK, Blue, 18-16 AWG (solid/stranded), 14 AWG (stranded), Pack of 500: Wire Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 

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If I remember correctly, I pulled the power for the "switched relay" from the rear running light wire.
The unit is very small and should fit in the space under the seat behind the battery.
 
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