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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone found a different throttle cam to try? I've used the company G2 before but they don't have one for the Brutale.

I've read other posts here about this characteristic and am trying to adapt to this abrupt throttle. As in very very small movement creates more than wanted results. Not just from off throttle to slighty on but mostly in the first third of throttle travel.

The dealer I bought the bike from "zeroed out" the ECU and verified it was the latest version but I didn't notice any improvement.

Thanks for any constructive ideas !

Dave
 

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I've seen posts on Thumpertalk where people made their own "throttle cams" by filing and/or adding material to the stock throttle assembly. I'd expect you could do the same thing with the Brutale's stock assembly. Go to the Yamaha YZ450 section of thumpertalk.com and do a search on throttle cams and you'll find something... here's one example:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=485653&highlight=throttle+cam
 

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The "race" throttle tube mod actually makes the throttle open faster by increasing the throttle tube radius.



For a street bike, this translates to low speed highside… If you are having a trigger (on/off) throttle issue - you don’t want that.



A variable cam throttle tube will help address this issue by decreasing the throttle tube radius during the first part of the throttle pull (slowing the rate of pull on the throttle cable) then increase the radius back to normal when you open the throttle further.



Sam (the owner) at G2 is a really helpful guy, and if you send him a stock throttle tube, I’m sure he can match it to something he already has in his product line.




leanin said:
I've seen posts on Thumpertalk where people made their own "throttle cams" by filing and/or adding material to the stock throttle assembly. I'd expect you could do the same thing with the Brutale's stock assembly. Go to the Yamaha YZ450 section of thumpertalk.com and do a search on throttle cams and you'll find something... here's one example:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=485653&highlight=throttle+cam
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you all for the great info! Here's what I did today... I disconnected the O2 sensor and found the throttle to be much better to my liking anyway. Yes, it still has the "on/off" type switch from fully closed to initially opening but I can deal with that.
Don't know if there are any long term consequences to this action but I'm satisfied for now anyway. Of course what I would really like is a throttle that is smooth and controllable like my ZX14R. Best throttle action I have ever experienced! Of course it's a whole different engine etc....
Dave

P.S. Dynojet just installed a Power Commander on an '08 910R but the owner hasn't ridden it yet so I don't know any results yet. And this 910R has an aftermarket exhaust system (don't remember which one) .
 

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Rider1 said:
P.S. Dynojet just installed a Power Commander on an '08 910R but the owner hasn't ridden it yet so I don't know any results yet. And this 910R has an aftermarket exhaust system (don't remember which one) .
Wait a minute...you're saying there finally is a PowerCommander solution available for Euro3 Brutes????
Can you please give more details about that ?
As far as i know, PC III won't work with Euro3 MVs because of the lambda sensor that keeps on sending A/F info back to the ECU which then corrects whatever changes one's just done with the PCIII...

Anyway, any add'l info would be much appreciated.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #7
khameron said:
Wait a minute...you're saying there finally is a PowerCommander solution available for Euro3 Brutes????
Can you please give more details about that ?
As far as i know, PC III won't work with Euro3 MVs because of the lambda sensor that keeps on sending A/F info back to the ECU which then corrects whatever changes one's just done with the PCIII...

Anyway, any add'l info would be much appreciated.

cheers
Pat Clark Motorsports, Las Vegas, NV sent an '08 910R with a modified exhaust to Dynojet last week but like I said in my previous post I haven't heard the results yet.
Dave
 

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insider said:
The "race" throttle tube mod actually makes the throttle open faster by increasing the throttle tube radius.



For a street bike, this translates to low speed highside… If you are having a trigger (on/off) throttle issue - you don’t want that.
The point of the post was that you can make the throttle have a cam type profile of whatever you want by filing or filling material where you want. To make the throttle pull more progressive, he'd obviously want to file material from the first portion of the throttle tube that controls the first 1/4 or so but, he may want to add material for the last 1/4 or so.
 

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No, the point is to not be messing with something as important as the throttle tube. You can imagine something coming loose and jam the throttle wide open...

Just seem like bad advice.


leanin said:
The point of the post was that you can make the throttle have a cam type profile of whatever you want by filing or filling material where you want. To make the throttle pull more progressive, he'd obviously want to file material from the first portion of the throttle tube that controls the first 1/4 or so but, he may want to add material for the last 1/4 or so.
 

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insider said:
No, the point is to not be messing with something as important as the throttle tube. You can imagine something coming loose and jam the throttle wide open...

Just seem like bad advice.
So we should also stop changing our tires, brake pads, brake lines, chains, sprockets ... because if something was to come loose, no telling what could happen. If modifying a throttle tube is beyond your mechanical abilities, by all means don't mess with it. But, just because it is beyond yours, don't assume its beyond everyone else's.
 

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A different idea...

Two (low cost) things I think will help:

1) Take up all the slack from the throttle cable. Those barrel adjusters on the cables coming out of the throttle control slack...adjust it so there's very little to no throttle free play. I found I don't have to do a tippy-toe around the throttle when any rotation gives it gas.

2) Go with a smaller rear sprocket; 40 or 41 teeth. This will "soften" the power delivery at lower throttle, cause it won't react as quickly as with the stock 43 tooth sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Zixxer2Go said:
Two (low cost) things I think will help:

1) Take up all the slack from the throttle cable. Those barrel adjusters on the cables coming out of the throttle control slack...adjust it so there's very little to no throttle free play. I found I don't have to do a tippy-toe around the throttle when any rotation gives it gas.

2) Go with a smaller rear sprocket; 40 or 41 teeth. This will "soften" the power delivery at lower throttle, cause it won't react as quickly as with the stock 43 tooth sprocket.
You're right. I've done #1 and installed a 40 tooth rear sprocket.
The bike's throttle is acceptable now. I don't for how long though...smile.

Thanks for your and everyone else's input. End of story here.

Dave
 

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Chain Length

Rider1 said:
You're right. I've done #1 and installed a 40 tooth rear sprocket.
I tried to install a 41 but couldn't take up the slack - how much did you reduce your chain length to use a 40T?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
asg21 said:
I tried to install a 41 but couldn't take up the slack - how much did you reduce your chain length to use a 40T?
The dealer did it but I think they took one link out of the chain. I know I paid for a new master link.

Dave
 

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Quote by insider:

"Sam (the owner) at G2 is a really helpful guy, and if you send him a stock throttle tube, I’m sure he can match it to something he already has in his product line."


Who's this guy Sam at G2? I'm very interested in this mod! I was told from a very reputable source that the stock throttle cam is too aggressive in the first part of the rotation! They(MV) do this this because it enhances the sensation and makes the bike feel faster!

With the first 5% of throttle rotation, it opens to more like 20%(on/off jerkiness)! Then it becomes true towards the end of it's rotation!

I was told that R1's and R6's use a true throttle, and gixxer guys put R1/R6 throttles their Suzooks all the time!

Who's Sam at G2?
 

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Mine felt very harsh. However i got rid of the cat & put an Arrow mid pipe on which made a difference - then a month or so later i got the Arrow Eprom & now the throttles' like a Honda & fuel economy is better too.
 
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