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Discussion Starter #1
I just opened a big box from the UK containing a 1957 175 CSTL. What a great early Christmas present. It looks like it is in pretty good shape but I need to begin recommissioning some of the rubber bits and bringing it back to life.
A couple of dumb questions :
1) Any good sources in the US for classic parts?
2) Any good manuals ...I know its a simple bike but a manual would be great.
3) How much i.e. what's the sump capacity and what type of oil would you guys recommend. (It was drained for shipping.)

Looking forward to going on next year's giro.

JP
 

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I just opened a big box from the UK containing a 1957 175 CSTL. What a great early Christmas present. It looks like it is in pretty good shape but I need to begin recommissioning some of the rubber bits and bringing it back to life.
A couple of dumb questions :
1) Any good sources in the US for classic parts?
2) Any good manuals ...I know its a simple bike but a manual would be great.
3) How much i.e. what's the sump capacity and what type of oil would you guys recommend. (It was drained for shipping.)

Looking forward to going on next year's giro.

JP
Not sure about U.S but uk owners group have spares for MV classics. But you must join as a member to purchase parts
Here is a list of part suppliers etc also
http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36139&highlight=Scarab+brakes
 

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Morgan,
Sending you a PM. I can forward you a PDF of an owners manual.
Ivan
 

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Oil......

At the risk of starting a long thread of conflict you will want to use 20/50W Mineral or Synthetic depending on the points of view you encounter....

I have used 15/50 and 20/50 Mineral since forever on my '55 TR but I'm thinking of switching to synthetic owing to certain persuasive ideas
about clutch slip given that I've had my fair share of clutch problems.

I'm going to give the synthetic oil a go and see if I can notice a difference in clutch operation.
 

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Oil......

At the risk of starting a long thread of conflict...I'm going to give the synthetic oil a go and see if I can notice a difference in clutch operation.
I hate oil threads, I feel that once folks understand the mechanics of motors they can just decide for themselves. So reluctantly offer this friendly opinion... for "vintage" small motors (lower stress, no paper filter, or sludge traps filter) I prefer good dino oil with high zinc content and change it before 1,000 miles or annually whichever comes first.

Yes, you can do this with synth but it's kind a waste.

Good reason to do frequent oil changes on old motors, as you may see a symptom in the drained oil before it becomes a problem in the motor. Oil changes also remove the acids and solvents that de-bond clutch plates, loosen seals, and pockmark bearing races.

If your clutch plates are as old as your motor, I recommend you go ahead and change them out for new ones ASAP! If the linings debond, the pieces can become ground up by meshing gears, then particulates can fill up a sludge trap or clog up a sump screen enough to burn up your motor.

Cheers!
Ivan
 
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