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I am in the process of prepping a friend's bike for the upcoming Deal's Gap Takeover. Admittedly, this bike has sat unattended in a garage for about four years. I have a nice new Yuasa YTZ10S on trickle charge ready to fire this biotch up when I take care of the following problems:

New fuel hoses and filter and genral cleaning of the fuel pump:

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Cleaning and rust removal of the fuel tank:

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Rust removal and treatment of the tank inner surface is what I need some advice on. I plan on using a cleaner and scotch brite to get the big stuff knocked off. Then, I'd like touse a good take prep and coating to prevent further rust.

Ed? Others? Who has used recent products.....:ahhh:
 

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Ive used this in all my vintage bikes and it works perfectly. Its an epoxy so it seal holes (may take a piece of tape on outside of tank), reinforces weak spots, etc. Excellent product IMO.

http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

Its little bit of a pain to spread evenly. you literally have to keep moving tank around as it sets up. Doesn't take overly long maybe 20 minutes. You would need to find a way to plug the giant hole where fuel pump is. Maybe make a thin plate and bolt on. the epoxy can be cut and dremeled out of holes once fully cured. It's how I did my petcock holes on the old tanks.
 

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Similar product I have used multiple times.

KBS Coatings. This is what you need:

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/cycle-tank-sealer-kit.html

I have done plastic, carbon fiber and rotted out vintage steel tanks. Seals pin holes, stops rust, and leaves a nice silver metallic coating in the tank. I swear by it.
 

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The tank coating supplier I have been to uses MEK to clean the tank before coating. If you can pick up a quart that should be plenty. As Steve mentioned you will need to seal off the tank after you pour it in to swish around. You will want to make sure it is sealed very well if you go this route! You do not want MEK getting on the paint. The clear coat should be resistant to it but I would avoid letting it touch any painted surfaces. I would recommend using a vacuum pump to get it out after you have swished it around. Make sure you use gloves and a mask when handling it.

I believe the coating we use on our tanks is only available commercially so I don't think you can get your hands on it.
 

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That's not the Senna is it Chuck ?
The rust doesn't look too bad yet, should be able to clean it up quickly.
We've now used both those coating products on stripped and painted tanks with great success.
 

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Similar product I have used multiple times.

KBS Coatings. This is what you need:

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/cycle-tank-sealer-kit.html

I have done plastic, carbon fiber and rotted out vintage steel tanks. Seals pin holes, stops rust, and leaves a nice silver metallic coating in the tank. I swear by it.
Great stuff. I used it on my carbon tank. It has a solution you use first to remove rust and impurities before you seal the tank. Would work great on this tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's not the Senna is it Chuck ?
The rust doesn't look too bad yet, should be able to clean it up quickly.
We've now used both those coating products on stripped and painted tanks with great success.
Yes, it's the Senna. I don't think clean up will be an issue either. The opinions and suggestions I have received thus far are what I expected.

I really wasn't expected that much degradation in the tank. Some parts of the hoses are literally liquefied.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I wore surgical gloves....:smoking:

(As part of this adventure, I got to meet Gary...he exists.:jsm:)
 

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I wore surgical gloves....:smoking:



Don't we all !

I had rust inside a 1975 BMW tank. It tends to be worst on the " roof" surface of the tank where condensation takes place ..

It looked pretty yukky.

I got researching and found a chemical called Oxalic acid. It's fairly benign stuff so long as you don't drink it !

It's a white powder and mixed with water it's a great rust cleaner. I made a solution up and put some little nuts and bolts in the tank and filled it up with the solution.

I reasoned that to do the job properly and without any doubt I'd need to live with it for a good few days. So I kept it in the kitchen and every time I thought about it or went to cook or for tea or beer I'd shake it up a bit ..making sure to invert it.

You can rinse this stuff safely down the drain...

After doing this I used a rust curer available from Autozone type places called Kurust...Looks like milk and I believe has an acid in it which turns any trace of corrosion black and seals it and stops it corroding.

Anyway I did this and my bike has since been to Spain, Portugal, France, Ireland and all round England without any problems.

In short it works and it's cheap and it's easy...

: )

Joe




Chuck I have a nice fuel pump here if you wants it. It's just taking up desk space !

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #11
On the fuel pump, Joe...I might. I believe I have two full pump-plate untis here to play with, but I haven't verified that becasue I am working nights.
 

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On the fuel pump, Joe...I might. I believe I have two full pump-plate untis here to play with, but I haven't verified that becasue I am working nights.

Hokey dokey Chuck...Looks like you have it covered...If you need any bits let me know..I'm trying to declutter !:smoking:
 

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Aren't we all! I trust things are well.
I am off to bed. More tomorrow.
 

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l have used POR-15 on about half a dozen tanks, they also have a product that removes old liners. l was a bit apprehensive when using the liner stripper the first time round, but 15 or so mins into the recommended hour it had eaten away the old liner (Kreem)
The secret with this stuff is to make sure the tank is 100% dry inside before final step off lining.

Cheers AOI

........................Just had a good look in my tank after seeing that!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thansk for that!
 

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I really wasn't expected that much degradation in the tank. Some parts of the hoses are literally liquefied.
Not surprised. My bike had been sitting between September 2008 and earlier this year. When i tried to start her up she wouldn't fire. I took the fuel pump assembly out and grabbed one of the hoses - it was like squeezing a sponge and it oozed out between my fingers. But I think you use a lot more ethanol in fuel over there than we do here hence possibly why it was so bad in that one - mine didn't look quite that bad.
 

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That ethanol shite is a real menace, There is a town 100miles away with a Chevron Station that sells 94 oct ethanol free, yes, i do drive there with cans, all my bikes and sleds get that stuff, learned the hard way with ethanol gas
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well folks, today is the day. Having done a bit of research and "youtubing", I am going to first try what BF519 has suggested. It just seems like the right product for the conditions I have with this particular tank.

BF...it would be nic if you would include at least a first name in your profile...I like the personal approach!

Chuck
 
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