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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
I'm a newbie to forum only recently having bought a s/h 2006 Brutale 910S. It has 16,000km on the odo and no service/log books. Great condition and runs pretty well. Having the major 12,000km service done (so that I can have peace of mind) by dealer in Adelaide.

Only had the bike a week and find that the low end throttle range is very twitch with barely any movement. Also getting some spluttering between 1,800-3000RPM. Asked dealer if this could be dynotuned out to give me smoother acceleration/more throttle movement in low end but told that the bike's fuel/air mixture is perfect and that's how MV Agusta are normally.

A bit of searching on the net and I discovered ECU and Power Commander modules when coupled with header/collector/silencer and high perf air filters give smoother gradations throughtout range (which is what I'm after) and more HP at top end.

Just bought a MV Agusta Corse Brutale 910 EPROM chip to go with slip ons and collector. Supposed to plug and play substitute stock ECU and wondering if it'll go OK with stock MV exhaust to give smoother lower RPM throttle gradations?

Most of my driving is going to be weekend warrior stuff up to 110km/h with occasional squirts

any advice much appreciated, cheers newbie
 

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Hi Buddy welcome,mate you will have to buy a pc3 and get it on a dyno and get someone who knows what he is doing.
cheers eddy
other members will have other options.
 

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Just bought a MV Agusta Corse Brutale 910 EPROM chip to go with slip ons and collector. Supposed to plug and play substitute stock ECU and wondering if it'll go OK with stock MV exhaust to give smoother lower RPM throttle gradations?
I doubt it will make any difference to the low end smoothness.

As mentioned a PC and full dyno map is the best way to go, I tried various chips and still ended up with a power commander and eventually a full dyno tune, should have just done it all to start with...

Get rid of the cat convertor, add PC III, they should be able to load a standard map to match at the same time. If that still isn't good enough get the full dyno tune.
 

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Disconnect the external throttle return spring on the outside of the throttle bodies on the left side of the bike. It is did wonders for mine
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hi guys, thanks for the welcome and tips. Had major service and dynoed and made big difference. The spluttering in the 2-3k RPM range is gone and the chart shows flat/'perfect' A/F plot of nearly 15:1 over the power/speed range. The throttle is still a bit twichy and will look at removing throttle return spring and/or will have to improve my technique. Asked the tech about EPU unfortunately he didn't have any experience with them and didn't think I'd get any further improvements. They do install PC but again, didn't think I'd get any better fuel economy or smoother power down low

Took the bike for a brisk 200km run down Fleurieu Peninsula over weekend and found big improvement. Running 98octane got 197km for 15L of fuel
 

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did they install the pc3 or not ,and did you have it actually dyno tuned, to perfection .

I am getting around 230km before yellow warning light.and zero snatchy throttle.

cheers eddy
 

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230? wow. I have never seen 200 before the yellow light!

I got a similar chip when I had the cat removed, subsequently got a PCIII more for some stalling annoyances. Never did the full dynotune run, pretty happy with how it is with a default PCIII setting. I still find it a bit snatchy but totally workable, and way better than what it was.
 

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yes, better but it could be just perfect,?.get the bike on a dyno.
cheers eddy
other opinions welcomed always.
 

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The Dude
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yes, better but it could be just perfect,?.get the bike on a dyno.
cheers eddy
other opinions welcomed always.

yup, can't argue with you there. just need time and money. :brutale:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
did they install the pc3 or not ,and did you have it actually dyno tuned, to perfection .
No, they didn't install the pc3. The dynotune I had was the cheapy $55 job; the full would have been about $150 but tech didn't think it was necessary because A/F plot was already 'perfect'

btw, what type and octane fuel are u using? My manual says 95 or higher RON. I was initially using E10 94 octane but after the dyno changed to Unleaded 98. After reading the thread on fuel economy http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43239 and especially the stuff on higher octane fuels leaving carbon residue, I'm gonna go back to E10 94 and try it again post the dyno. There were comments that Ethanol fuel is 'shit' or vague references to it not being as clean or something but I'd like some hard facts before I'm dissuaded. It's also considerably cheaper compared to 98 in South Australia

any ideas welcome, thnx
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Don't use that E10 stuff ( most bike manufacturers say not to use it) . 98 is no benefit, 95 is what you need.
Any idea why the E10 is not recommended? is it because factory bike's not tuned for it or something intrinsic in the ethanol additive?

thx
 

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Any idea why the E10 is not recommended? is it because factory bike's not tuned for it or something intrinsic in the ethanol additive?

thx
Read up some more mate, the stuff is no good for injectors, destroys the fuel lines etc, just ask the USA guys.
 

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Ethanol is nasty stuff, google what it does to Ducati (plastic) petrol tanks, then check what your tank is made from!

Like Donsy says it destroys things not designed to work with it.

(sits back and waits for Noel :popcorn: )
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Guys, much appreciate taking the time to respond.
Called in today to the venerable OG Speedshop on OG Rd, Klemzig (Adelaide). They're a Liberty fuel outlet and agreed with others on this forum that putting in higher octane fuel than what the engine's designed/tuned for causes carbon buildup etc. They said that the E10 94 fuel here in South Australia is ur basic unleaded 91 with ethanol (alcohol) added to boost the octane rating to 94. They reckon there's no residual deposits and burns clean but the alco attracts moisture and therefore if the bike isn't going to be used for some time best to empty the tank. On the other hand, they're not bike mechs per se and didn't mention anything about corroding plastic fuel tanks, injectors etc. Appreciate the tips - more tooling around on the net... thnx
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi, been trawling the net re E10. It's a pretty mixed bag of opinions and experiences and some horror stories eg the Ducati fuel tanks. Seems like in the latter case it's the use of PA6 polyamide plastic (http://deformedfueltanks.com/) that could be the culprit in conjunction with the ethanol. The worrying thing for me is that my 2006 910S manual specs states the fuel tank as being made of "thermoplastic material" - could be anything but do I want to risk it... I don't think so. And then there's the Federal Chamber of Automotive Industries (Australia) that gives a listing of bikes that are compatible and those that are not (no sign of MV Agusta) makes fairly compelling reading re the fuel injectors etc that u mentioned Donsy

looks like I'll be switching to unleaded 95 post haste...
only remaining niggle is that it appears that the fuel industry is inexorably moving towards more ubiquitous and increasing proportion of ethanol blended fuels in Oz and elsewhere....will be increasingly tricky to find straight unleaded on longer road trips....hmmm, worrying

thnx for your thoughts, it's been a learning curve
 

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E10?

search "Acerbis tanks"......
being loyal Italians......they buy them......maybe they're cheap:stickpoke

Aprilia, Ducati and MV all use the POS from Acerbis

i had to enlarge the holes in my Aprilia RSVR fuel pump plate so i could put it back into the tank.....hey, the aluminum didn't shrink:jerkoff:

and slot the rear hinge because the tank wouldn't clear the top triple:wtf:

hey Rich, that OK?
 

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Thanks Noel, I was pretty sure that a man with your exposure in the automotive field would have some experience off the horror that is E10.

I didn't realise Aprilia used them too. Here in AU there is some legislation that an "Unleaded Fuel" only sticker has to be put on the tanks/next to the filler of motorbikes, but you can't generally buy anything else! They should have put a "no E fuel" on them instead in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
interesting stuff guys, much appreciate ur thoughts, cheers Claudio
 

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Twitchy Thottle

Hello,
I am in a similar situation with my 2009 910S . The initial power delivery is vicious and i am struggling with confidence on the track. I will ring around for a Dyno Tune. Please note that i do not want to thow money at this bike as it has cost me a fortune allready.

Regards

John:f4:
 
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