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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
my clutch is dragging very badly(gearbox works), when i put it in gear and try to move the wheel while pulling the clutch, i can just barely move it, the clutch only moves a couple of millimeters

i tried and struggled to put in new fluid and bleed it, i think air keeps getting in

there was gunky fluid in the slave in the middle and when i pull the lever the piston only moves a couple of millimeters and i think i can see fluid between the piston and the case

This should be a leaky clutch slave issue right?
Are there rebuild kits i can`t find anything useful, only complete units.

i can`t believe that the master is to blame or that the clutch is that knackered and bent, am i overlooking anything?

thx best regards
 

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2005 Brutale 750s
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It sounds like the slave cylinder is bypassing. I wouldn’t worry about a rebuild. You can just purchase a new one and then bleed the system again.
 

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With everything working correctly there is only a few mm of movement at the clutch when you pull the lever. Your dragging clutch symptoms can also be caused by wear on the clutch hub which makes the plates reluctant to free up. You will never completely get rid of the binding.

Was there fluid collecting in the sprocket cover recess when you removed the slave? If so you may fix it by removing the slave piston and cleaning and honing the bore and reassembling. If you look closely at the lip of the seal you will see if it is worn or damaged. Also remove and clean the fluid reservoir on the mastercylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Clutch is what i am dreading, i just changed the oil
I'm unsure what to do, the clutch slave is not healthy but it didn't puke out oodles of fluid, there was just a bit in the middle of it.
Even if it pulls in a bit of air i don't think that could explain the bike just wanting to go, without letting the clutch out, when i put it in gear on the rear stand
We are talking about Nr.1, the hub and not the basket as the offending party, right?
The old 750 and 1000 clutches should all be the same, correct?
 

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A very small bit of air will compromise your clutch action. Repair or replace your slave before you go digging into your clutch.
 

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Old Wing Nut
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The bleed nipple on your slave cylinder is broken off !!! Fix that.
The pressure plate only needs to move a couple of millimeters to release the plates.
What kind if oil did you use? Can make a difference, and clutch will have viscosity drag when oil is cold.
There is some info in the maintenance stickies where our dearly departed curmudgeon found repair kits somewhere. You may have to do some digging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah the bleed nipple sheered off, it just got soft, i think someone messed with it before me
I put in synth. 10w60, engine was cold, but still we are not talking about a little friction, it's almost as if the clutch is engaged it sticks so much
Could the clutch actually be this sticky just because the engine hasn't run for a long while

I have taken the slave apart and cleaned it, will try again when i can bleed it, but i'm not hopeful
I have had a look at rebuild kits, but i can't find a source for that stupid 30.1 x 22.6 ring that seals the piston, it has no markings on it either
 

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You can bleed the slave by loosening the banjo bolt, not ideal but.....

You do need to ensure that the mastercylinder doesnt have any air in it. You can bleed it also by loosening the banjo but position it so the outlet end is highest. When its bleed propoerly there should only be the slightest amount of soft movement at the lever before it hardens up. You cant afford much slack as there is so little movement at the clutch end due to the ratios.
 

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Old Wing Nut
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Could the clutch actually be this sticky just because the engine hasn't run for a long while

YES...If the bike has not been run for a long time the plates can literally stick together. Doesn't matter that the pressure plate is released, the oil on the plates has become almost a glue.
Put the bike in a taller gear (3rd?) and with the clutch pulled try to move the bike, engine not running, to break the stiction and free the plates. Bump it backward and then forward.
 
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