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Discussion Starter #1
Maintenance time.
I have noticed that I can feel some rumbling through the footpegs, so thought I might check things out.

Chain and sprockets ok, but the side play in the sprocket carrier is more than I would like, so I will shim that out. Hub bearings are still like new.

The valve cover has been weeping oil so I thought I may as well attack that at the same time.
My paranoia about the cam chain tensioner is well founded. It is jammed again. Nothing that is going to cause terminal failure as I have replaced the rod inside the plunger spring with a longer piece, so if the tensioner fails it can not retract back far enough to cause a loss of valve timing.

Checked out the valve clearances and all the exhaust side have closed up to be under tolerance. Ordered shims to bring back to 0.25mm on the assumption that the gap will close up over time.

Tomorrow the job will be to remove the rear shock to confirm that the spherical bearing at the top is the cause of the play in the back end. All other linkages and bearings check out ok.

Also going to attack the fuel pump assembly to change the fuel filter and fuel lines.
 

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Well done Jon!
Seems like regular maintenance only.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, very happy so far. Nothing out side of the routine stuff. It is the original fuel filter and lines too.
 

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Good idea to to pull the pump out of the housing and clean the strainer too. Some gunk builds up in there over time. Actually I would follow the manwell directions to give the entire assembly a good clean out. Mine ran alot better after that. My valves had tightened up and they were shimmed loose also.
 

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Have fun Jon,do you have the upgraded type CC ,as mine was and failed . Whent back to the old type and used an O ring to stop the spring popping out ,instead of 4 mm the O ring reduced it to about 2mm. They are just a pain.

cheers eddy
 

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Very encouraging for a new Brutale owner, 55k still going strong. BTW, I would love to watch more experienced owners work on the fuel pump if any one is willing to let me. I've been reading up on Donsy et al instructions but some of the diagram looks a bit complicated and it sound like the O-ring is a process in itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Eddy, the last 3 tensioners have been the F4 type. They all jam the same way. The shaft jams in the housing and won't move in or out.
I seem to be unique with this issue, so I guess it is down to my riding style... Compared to the other guys I ride with I use engine braking a lot.
 

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That is spot on Jon ,it jams in the shaft ,so I went and grabbed a Kawasaki one cost me 30 dollars ,some guy at brendale had a second hand one.exactly the same as the old type,my first type was the spring popping out ,I have now hopefully fixed that issue.then again we do crap loads of k/m .
 

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And yes this is my third cct.so working on that principle they should be changed every 20,000 km.Lol
eddypro,

The service schedule say check/replace every 12k. Can I assume they mean, check and if it doesn't need replacing, then leave say to 24k then definitely replace regardless?
 

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Hey Eddie, got a part no. on that Kwaka tensioner, is it the same as the early silver top type or the black top tensioner ? Revhead, you`re certainly not alone with a jammed tensioner and yes Ed we do seem to get the kms up, got 55 to 60,000 on all three of mine but they`re just so good to ride.
 

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Hi Paul you should get an indication if it becomes jammed ,motor will sound different ,its hard to say ,some guys go past 24000 km some not even up to 12000 km ,get used to the sound of your motor ,you will know if the sound changes,becomes a bit more rattleing .12000km is a bit short in my opion ,but like I said some have failed at lower km
 
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