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@Skintkarter: Have you, as yet, measured any discernible current in the ABS system, or are you just surmising based on pitting?
 

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No I haven't. I checked around the stop light switch with a multimeter, but couldn't find anything. Haven't checked around the ABS unit and if there is an issue there, it may well only be present when the unit is triggered. Our line of pitting on the M/C piston would suggest that. Hoping to hear back from an ABS unit specialist repairer today as to where to look for damage.
 

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Hi all,
I put a nipple bleed onto the rear banjo brake line ABS, there is enough space to do it, because the ABS unit must be bleeded 3 times (with all the liquid goes everywhere , not a clever engineering at all)
This is the higher point of the brake circuit and gravity plays his role....air bubbles are trapped there, that is the concern !
Hope you ride safer now
Cheers
 
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Hi all,
I put a nipple bleed onto the rear banjo brake line ABS, there is enough space to do it, because the ABS unit must be bleeded 3 times (with all the liquid goes everywhere , not a clever engineering at all)
This is the higher point of the brake circuit and gravity plays his role....air bubbles are trapped there, that is the concern !
Hope you ride safer now
Cheers
Sure Christo, but air in the system doesn't explain the pitting damage to our the master cylinder. Something else is going on in our case.
 

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I am happy to see smart engineers working the rear brake problem-mystery. Agree that MV engineering should get seriously involved to find a solution. My 2018 Dragster RR rear brake re-bleed (after previous rear cylinder replace and bleed) seems to be holding. Timing was early May, so the bike has had 2.5 months of hot weather riding with good brake performance. Second bleed was done by local Houston, TX previous MV dealer, and I think he disassembled and flipped upside down, and was very patient. Please keep working the problem. Much thanks!
 

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Hi all,
I put a nipple bleed onto the rear banjo brake line ABS, there is enough space to do it, because the ABS unit must be bleeded 3 times (with all the liquid goes everywhere , not a clever engineering at all)
This is the higher point of the brake circuit and gravity plays his role....air bubbles are trapped there, that is the concern !
Hope you ride safer now
Cheers
Great idea...
I would have done this for my '16 TV, if the ABS module were that accessible.
Sadly the ABS module, for the tV, is buried under the front body structure, under the headlight assembly.
So even if there is room for a bleeder type banjo bolt.
To access it would still require disassembly of the front body structures.
 

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So someone also started a post on the MV Agusta club NSW Facebook page complaining about the same rear brake issues.

This response was posted by the dealer after quite a few owners responded with similar stories.

480033
 

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So someone also started a post on the MV Agusta club NSW Facebook page complaining about the same rear brake issues.

This response was posted by the dealer after quite a few owners responded with similar stories.

View attachment 480033
Thanks George - interested to understand if this is just the revised bleeding instructions, or something deeper. I'll see if I can sign up to their page and follow.

As we have no dealer here now we are dealing directly with the Importer and he is starting to get quite shitty over our ongoing problem. Whatever the air/bleeding issue is, there is something more going on with our bike with the pitting damage to the M/C.
 

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Without an electron microscope to examine your "pitting", and the knowledge to recognize what it is, you are just speculating.
The area you show in the photos is outside of the brake fluid itself, on the dry side of the piston cup. Fluid in that area would be the result of a leaking piston cup and the fluid leak would be quite evident.
I think you may be barking up the wrong tree.
 
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Without an electron microscope to examine your "pitting", and the knowledge to recognize what it is, you are just speculating.
The area you show in the photos is outside of the brake fluid itself.], on the dry side of the piston cup. Fluid in that area would be the result of a leaking piston cup and the fluid leak would be quite evident.
I think you may be barking up the wrong tree.
I'll just give up then...
 

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I'll just give up then...
Thank you all for the interesting discussion and research.

My triple sometimes has symptoms discussed in this thread, other times not. As I don't use the rear brake all the time I've decided not to worry about it until next big service, and to remember that in the interim it may under-perform, at any given time, and ride accordingly.

At some point, thanks to the trails and tribulations of more assiduous owners like your good self, it will all become evident and I will sort it. Bloody hate brake fluid.

I hope that you are not letting all this spoil your fun. Not always the best riding weather in North-east Antarctica at the moment, but there's Rugby?

regards
Scott
 

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Something that I think you said earlier in this thread attracted my attention. The TV I bought had been sitting around for years, lots of time for corrosion to set in, insidious bastard that it is.
 

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Something that I think you said earlier in this thread attracted my attention. The TV I bought had been sitting around for years, lots of time for corrosion to set in, insidious bastard that it is.
Pay to strip the master cylinder to check condition
 

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Please don't give up.
 

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Please don't give up.
I'm originally from Yorkshire mate. So by default I'm stubborn, blunt and mildly grumpy. I've also been flogging Life insurance for the last 34 years, so am quite persistent...

Things moved up a gear yesterday.

Should anybody with an ABS 3 Cylinder brake issue wish to participate or contribute to the discussion, please PM me on facebook (Richard Pykett)
 

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I'm still toiling on this, but not sure we are any further ahead. Our brake was going soft after the last dealer bleed (according to S/B 189 rev 1) but since I opened up the reservoir (which seems slightly distorted on closer inspection) to measure the fluid voltage, the pedal has been restored. I operated the pedal a few times with the reservoir top off to try and check at what exact point the brake light switch was working, then buttoned it all up again and left overnight. Weirdly the pedal was harder the next day and has remained so. Tyres are due to be changed this week and then the bike will be ridden again rather than stored.

Does anybody have a copy of the latest Service Bulletin 189 rev 1 please? I have 189, but it would be useful to understand what has changed in rev 1.

Thanks.
 
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