[noggin]

Is it possible that the plug you have fitted to the extended hose is now creating a vacuum as the brake pads wear? Pull the plug out then refit and see if anything happens.

 

[goozlo]

Brake pads cannot have weared that much in 200miles. The reservoir would have the same affect, but I'll install the reservoir instead of the plug and see

 

[noggin]

The resevoir allows for the movement of the fluid as the brakes are applied I was thinking the plug might have been limiting this freeflow of fluid creating the vacuum, just a thought.

 

[goozlo]

Good point

 

[Panchomeneguzi]

The reservoir has a black part(hule?) that extends or moves in order to allow the fluid to flow, you won’t get vacuum effect with a reservoir.

 

[esq'z me]

The reservoir has a black part(hule?) that extends or moves in order to allow the fluid to flow, you won’t get vacuum effect with a reservoir.

That's a diaphragm ....
Total fluid movement under normal operation is only a very few milliliters. I seriously doubt there is enough fluid movement in the plugged hose replacing the reservoir to create a vacuum of any significance. Race bikes use a similar "reservoir" (and a much shorter hose) with no problems created.

 

[cherche]

I can confirm no brake pressure loss on my MV and Morini since early July with aluminium seals installed.
As I Idiot broke my arm I took the MV out twice and the Morini once since then.
My bikes had dead brakes when sitting over winter time and not being ridden.
Seems to be a good sign to me

Edit:
Aluminium seals need less torque than copper ones - pay attention!!

 

[Sarcade]

Wow. So after 1.5 years of owning my Dragster, I take it out after a 3 month winterized state, and notice I have no rear brakes. And I was shocked after doing a search on these boards. So basically MV is chalking it up as part of required maintenance and not a real problem? That's great. Form over function.

Anyways, question, can I remove the rear caliper WITHOUT removing the tire?

Regards.

 

[bioluminescence]

I wanted to provide info on dealing with my rear brake recently, it's something that was long overdue.

I implemented the recommended solution offered by several here of relocating the reservoir to under the rear seat. I simply reused my existing one and I realize that depending on the different models, some may have more space back there than others. Mine has almost zero to fully enclose that reservoir but I managed to get it to fit just barely and be able to get the seat the latch properly when down.

I went the cheapest route possible and purchased Gates heater hose #28408 which I found at O'reilly auto parts here in the US. You will need 5 feet, I know that sounds like a lot but trust me you'll need it. The main thing is that this is an EPDM hose and was cheap at $1.40/foot. This hose is thicker than the standard OEM brake hose you might be used to, which is a bit of a pain to get it to fit into tight spaces, but a couple of advantages are that it will not kink and will be very resistant to heat near the engine. The hose is 5/8" OD, so make sure to get some new clamps while you're there.

I routed mine the same way as the original brake line to the stock location of the reservoir, but after that I ran it on top of the ABS unit. I cut a notch into the plastic housing of the unit to let the hose run through once the fuel tank sits down on top. I also put some thick vinyl electrical tape onto the sides where I cut it just so that over time the plastic doesn't start cutting into the hose. Once you cut the notch out, you can then route it upward along the frame and use some ties to hold it into location on the side because when you fit the fairing over the frame there's actually plenty of room inside the fairing for the hose to fit.

After all that was done I followed the bleeding procedure from MV's service bulletin, all the air was from the caliper....go figure. Brake is hard as a rock now.

Can we get a photo of how you fit that reservoir in your F3’s tail? Did you fashion a special bracket? I would love to try this.

 

[911scmedic]

Wow. So after 1.5 years of owning my Dragster, I take it out after a 3 month winterized state, and notice I have no rear brakes. And I was shocked after doing a search on these boards. So basically MV is chalking it up as part of required maintenance and not a real problem? That's great. Form over function.

Anyways, question, can I remove the rear caliper WITHOUT removing the tire?

Regards.

You can remove the caliper with the wheel on. It’s tight, but done easily. I put a towel inside to protect the wheel from tool scratches.

 

[911scmedic]

Update on my rear brake. Since I completed (Sept. 2022) adding the aluminum crush washers and bleed nipple on rear ABS circuit. My brake has not changed - been solid/functioning and no bleeds needed.

 

[cherche]

Both my Italian bikes too .
They lost pressure being stored like now (2,5 month) - now good.

 

[Joachim]

Just bleed the MA2 terminal on the abs unit.
It takes 20 minutes and the rear brake will be fine again.

 

[Teeps]

Just bleed the MA2 terminal on the abs unit.
It takes 20 minutes and the rear brake will be fine again.

Not on a Turismo.
ABS unit is under the headlight. Half of the bodywork has to be removed; just to have access to the unit.

 

[Brutale76]

Not on a Turismo.
ABS unit is under the headlight. Half of the bodywork has to be removed; just to have access to the unit.

Not on a Turismo.
ABS unit is under the headlight. Half of the bodywork has to be removed; just to have access to the unit.

Not on a Turismo.
ABS unit is under the headlight. Half of the bodywork has to be removed; just to have access to the unit.

Only the right grey panel needs to come off....no?