[911scmedic]

Hello fellow rear brake friends!
I do not claim to be a brake expert by any means. Read all 14 pages and I am only reporting, what I have done and has worked for me.
First, I have a 2011 Ducati Multistrada (from new and still own) and yes everyone on that board has rolled down the same exact issues as this forum. I tried every known "repair/enhancement" suggested here for our brand, on the Multi.

But what finally worked on that bike, I have applied here with great success. Since then (my Ducati rear brake) I have never had a long/soft rear brake on the Multi.
Hopefully, time will prove to be the same on the Dragster.

I have under 1500 miles on my 2020 Dragster. Was on a canyon run out of Santa Barbara, the rear went long, when I needed it... Came home and started following the new bleed procedure. The first step, bleeding MC2 at ABS at the factory bleed nipple, I was getting foamed fluid. That was quite a surprize and I thought either contamination or as suggested here air leaks.

I did a complete flush with Motul 600 RBF exactly following the Tech Bulletin 189 Rev. 1.
Went out and did the 5 ABS activation, hard brake pedal, passed the weight test.
I then ordered parts from Spiegler (to match the Multi).

Parts arrived and I installed all.
Replaced MC2 washers with aluminum. Replaced R Banjo bolt, with one that has a bleeder. Used aluminum washers on R also.

Now what I found - I started the brake flush.
Rear master to ABS (MC2) no air, good fluid through factory bleed nipple.
Per the bulletin you would crack the R line. Not very neat or ability to see what is going on.

I now bleed, MC2 to R (through the new R nipple) effectively bleeding the ABS - I got quite a bit of bubbled fluid. The only place those bubbles could be from was the ABS circuit. Continued flushing until I got good fluid flow.
Last step bleed inverted caliper. no air, good fluid.
ABS activation and pedal remains hard.

I believe the air trapped in the ABS gets missed bleeding from MC2 to (crack the R line) as your unable to really determine if you have all the air bubbles out. Same exact repair as my Multi. Bleed the ABS unit, better...(this is also the highest point in the system). Also you do not violate the crush washers (crack the R line), by bleeding through the new R nipple. As mentioned in the pages, washers are a possible air leak source.
A few parts from Spiegler (or any vendor you chose) and my rear has been great.

 

[goozlo]

The ABS bleeding banjos are 10 x1.25 ?

 

[Brutale76]

The ABS bleeding banjos are 10 x1.25 ?

No... 10x1.00

 

[Teeps]

The ABS bleed fitting is a reasonable band-aid on a Brutale.
But on a Turismo the ABS unit is buried behind the fairing, under the head light.

 

[911scmedic]

I agree that room is needed, and on the Brutale and Dragster this allows for an easy fix. I did make a small hole in the seat base, to allow the fitting a little room (Also had to make same seat mod on Multi) I would not call it a band-aid though… As of 2020 on, MV identified a problem/addition adding a bleeder screw to the MC2 line (on Dragster anyways).
My initial thought was, If I did not have the room. I could get a new brake line (R line - ABS to rear caliper) made with a bleeder in the banjo end matching the MC2 line, just like MV has done.

Yes, a cross platform problem. But I think the solution remains the same. Just how to accomplish on your specific model.
I wouldn’t want to have to remove all the body parts to bleed a brake system. Sympathy to that. But my position was, it worked (on Multi) hopefully again on my Dragster and will reduce the need for frequent bleeds.

 

[cherche]

Since I replaced the washers by aluminium ones I got no problems on both my Italian bikes

 

[goozlo]

I have removed the reservoir and run a tube next to the ABS module. I've done the bleeding according to mv agusta. Bleed at the abs and then at the caliper with the caliper upside down. Let's see how it goes, I've ordered banjo with nipple for abs and when I do that I'll replace all the washers. Hope for the best

 

[EkiHoo]

Some update, what learnt. I tried to use "weight on pedal" over the winter time but...It didn't work. Air found the way into system. Since early summer, I did quick bleeding and recovered brake back to normal. Since then, I have activated ABS every time running with bike and so far so good, pedal is still firm as it should be. Let's see how things will proceed during the wintertime.

 

[Teeps]

Some update, what learnt. I tried to use "weight on pedal" over the winter time but...It didn't work. Air found the way into system. Since early summer, I did quick bleeding and recovered brake back to normal. Since then, I have activated ABS every time running with bike and so far so good, pedal is still firm as it should be. Let's see how things will proceed during the wintertime.

Interesting... could it BE that easy?