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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
@jaramharamharam - move your rear reservoir higher on the bike...to above the ABS unit. You can do that simply by attaching a long length of clear brake tubing in place of the reservoir. Physics works.
 

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@jaramharamharam - move your rear reservoir higher on the bike...to above the ABS unit. You can do that simply by attaching a long length of clear brake tubing in place of the reservoir. Physics works.
Yeah I read that in the thread, but not sure I understand. The ABS unit is tucked right above the shock. So remove the actual resevoir , and instead run a straight tube all the way up until it's higher than the ABS unit? Do you mind posting a picture if you have one? My thought was to just remove the damn ABS unit all together but worried that might intorduce other problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
I don't have a picture as I have not done this to my bike yet because of a physical issue I have. However, you have the correct idea.
 
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Yeah I read that in the thread, but not sure I understand. The ABS unit is tucked right above the shock. So remove the actual resevoir , and instead run a straight tube all the way up until it's higher than the ABS unit? Do you mind posting a picture if you have one? My thought was to just remove the damn ABS unit all together but worried that might intorduce other problems.
Or you could do as I did on my TV.
Build a DYI brake line to bypass the abs all together...
 

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Turismo Veloce Rosso EAS -20
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I have used now weight on the pedal when not driving, while bike sits in garage, since last August. And surprisingly when was driving now first time for long time after winter, pedal was firmer than ever. Extrmely nice to use, no need to bend your ankle in awkward angle. At least for me rear brake is essential while driving down tight turns in mountains or maneuvering in city. For me this is a solution, for the recreational usage of the bike.

There's roughly 1.5 ltr water / 1.5 kg.
Automotive tire Glove Bottle Automotive lighting Plastic bottle
 

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Had this issue on my Brutale that I bought beginning of the year (2018 800RR). Hung a full engine oil canister on the pedal after pumping it up a little. Left it there for 12hrs. Then unbolted the rear brake caliper, took it to the right side of the wheel, twisted it around so the bleeding nipple was its highest point, then started bleeding it. It was straight up foam coming out of it. Had to bleed three times to get rid of the foam. Brake has been firm for about 2k miles now. Might repeat soon, because after some ABS activation I noticed a slight increase of pedal travel.
 

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A guy in German Brutale forums changed the OEM copper sealing rings to aluminium ones in the whole system.
He reported no pressure loss over winter time till now.
He said the copper sealing rings had signs of oxidation.
 

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Turismo Veloce Rosso EAS -20
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I have used now weight on the pedal when not driving, while bike sits in garage, since last August. And surprisingly when was driving now first time for long time after winter, pedal was firmer than ever. Extrmely nice to use, no need to bend your ankle in awkward angle. At least for me rear brake is essential while driving down tight turns in mountains or maneuvering in city. For me this is a solution, for the recreational usage of the bike.

There's roughly 1.5 ltr water / 1.5 kg.
View attachment 494249
All, I have confess that there are still issues even I used this weight over the winter period. During my first longer trip in June, I noticed that if I was not using rear brake some time, it was getting a slack (pedal was having longer travel to engage) which was getting away after first pedal stroke. It can't be air in the system when pedal is firm after this first pedal stroke. I'm getting feeling that there might be something in master cylinder itself. And I saw earlier comments that Aprilia is using similar arrangement with ABS-module and master/reservoir locations, without having issues. And it uses Brembo-master instead of Nissin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #278 ·
Here is a recent comment from another thread on this issue: Rear Brake - I'm calling BS

So let's update this thread. After I originally posted this, I moved the master up behind the right side panel. I'm not sure if it's the highest point in the system but it's definitely higher than the ABS unit. The rear brake has been working great ever since.
 
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I'm getting feeling that there might be something in master cylinder itself. And I saw earlier comments that Aprilia is using similar arrangement with ABS-module and master/reservoir locations, without having issues. And it uses Brembo-master instead of Nissin.
I got 3 Italian bikes and only the RSV4 does not have the problem.
My 2020 Morini Milano limited (#14 of 30 built) uses a Brembo master cylinder and it is crap too.
I still think it is a problem of galvanic corosion within the system.
I now changed the copper seals an the ABS block to aluminium ones. TRW recommends these to avoid the problem we have.
Here is a pic:



Top is Morini (no idea what material it is, but different from TRW), left MV copper, right TRW.

If you go this route, you need to torque the aluminium ones to 15 - 20 Nm only - otherwise you will destroy them!!!

I suppose only view people know a Morini Milano, so here is a photo of 2 of my bikes:



Will keep you updated....
 
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I installed the aluminium seals last weekend and put on some weight to the lever. My intension was to drive the air into the highest point (ABS block) and to remove it there.

But wow - what a difference, no need to bleed! The brake lever is as hard as it never has been before - even from the factory (y).

Unfortunately I broke my arm on monday and so cannot take my bikes out for a ride :rolleyes:.
So about 6 weeks no riding......
 
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