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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, all. I've got a 2019 Dragster RR, specifically a Pirelli edition if that makes any difference. My father and I were taking the tank off to replace the battery with a better one, and ended up breaking off the nipple connector to the fuel pump, leaving the male 90-degree connector without its appendage.

The few resources I've been able to find for replacing this fitting all showcase a slightly different, older fuel pump design. I have no idea how to remove the remains of this red connector, and am hesitant to start pulling the fuel pump apart to find this insight.

The available replacement connectors appear to just have a small rubber gasket ring, which suggests I just need to muscle the connector out. However, it doesn't want to give and I'm worried I'll damage the pump if I prod too much more.

Anyone have any advice for me? No dealers particularly local to me, and I've been told I'd have a minimum of three weeks waiting for parts. I'm attaching some pictures below to help articulate my problem. Thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome aboard, under less than enjoyable circumstances.
I guess you have found our community after using a search function.
You will find a wealth of info here, and friendly folk too. It does help if you do an intro in the new members area.

Regards your issue, you are not the first to have this happen. If you do a search in the forum, you will find a couple of threads about this.
In summary, the red fitting is a push fit into the fuel pump base, with a castellated conical spring that grips harder the more you try to pull the fitting out. Most used a pick to break it up and get it out a bit at a time.
The fitting is not available from MV as a part. It is available as an Aprilia Caponord part. As above, search and you will find.
 

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Here is one thread that shows an alternate part: Broken plastic fuel pump connector F4Y10

It is common to all bikes in the MV line newer than 2010 when they went to the single supply line system for fuel.

Welcome to THE forum!
 
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I haven't a clue what part you are looking for but...a company in the uk...WB MOTORCYCLE BREAKERS are breaking a 2018 Brutale RR/ RC and have various parts for sale.
They are selling various parts on Ebay, they might have one.

Not sure if this what you are looking for but it's an ignition coil they have for sale...£69.00
479994
 

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Welcome to the family @TylenolJones !! Where are you in these United States? and as mentioned by revhead1957, please do make an introductory post in the "New Members" section.

As usual, Chuck had the answers.... let us know how you get on.
 

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Agree, for I have had five MV's, three F3's and two Dragsters over the last eight years and never had the need to replace a battery
Those are a lot of bikes. But if you were switching to another bike in less than two years, probably you didn't get to the need of a battery replacement(that is if you changed your old bike for the next one). I think after three years, the owner should think of a replacement. My Brutale 2017 battery was having problems to get charged, and that caused damage on the generator (and that was with like 20.000 km of one year owning it).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to all who replied. I was banging my head against the wall here for a little until revhead mentioned the Aprilias. Hadn't even occurred to me to look cross-platform but that really helped. Also really appreciate the direct link from silentservice.

I actually had found this forum earlier in regards to my battery problem, but didn't make an account as I didn't really have anything to contribute yet.

As for why I put a new battery in it, it was really my fault. Got the bike delivered in Feb and didn't get much of a chance to ride it until the summer, and when I got to it the battery was completely flat because I neglected to put it on a tender.

Couldn't recondition the battery through the tender, and it didn't even have enough juice to power the LCD screen. Checking on these forums, I saw a lot of complaints about the BS battery so figured since I had to get in there anyway, I'd replace it with a Yuasa.

New battery sorted my electrical problems, but my dad twisted the tank upwards thinking we could remove the battery without removing the tank, and here I am.

Anyway, appreciate all the input. I'll square my profile away and make an intro post in the near future. Thanks again to everyone who replied.
 

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Just fixed one for a customer, easiest way to remove is cut off top of the fitting then drill it out, a 10 .5mm diameter drill, pick out the steel retaining washer, then grip the remainder of the fitting internally and pull out.
Put a bit of lube on the new fitting, push in past the O rings, then tap in the rest of way.
Bingo, just avoided the bill for a new fuel pump
 

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Welcome to the family @Mickosaigon60 !! Please tell us about yourself in an introductory post in the "New Members" section.
 

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Another newbie :)
Welcome aboard. Where did you source the offending part?
I ordered it from the UK, it's used on a few Ford models used in Europe, I think it is also used on some Fiats too.
In Australia you can also buy it from Sherco, as it's used on some older models of theirs, but they want about $175, Ford part is about $10 plus shipping
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Quite a bit of delay in posting the results of this issue, but again all input was much appreciated. Whoever turned me onto Aprilia absolutely saved the day, as I was able to source a direct replacement part here.

I had hoped to avoid needing to drill the old pump connector out, but that truly was the easiest course of action. Antony's photos were integral. Replacement nozzle fit right in, tested the fitment with no leaks and consistent fueling.

Putting the pump back in and connecting everything was frustrating, because the various cables and hoses that must connect to the pump are rather deep in the bike, so I had to use long needle-nose pliers and a spare pair of hands to get everything connected. I was ultimately able to get everything reinstalled and the bike WAS working with no problems.

It seems, however, that my supplied MV charger was defective because it has under-charged my replacement battery to the point of possibly needing to be replaced, as well. Additionally, it seems my turn signals have stopped working. Other lights work correctly, and all fuses are copacetic.

I'm fairly optimistic that I'll be able to rectify these issues, but it has been a bit frustrating, Not the only Italian vehicle I've owned though, so I'm not disheartened chasing down electrical gremlins in a vehicle that spends most of its life sitting around on a tender.
 

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Just fixed one for a customer, easiest way to remove is cut off top of the fitting then drill it out, a 10 .5mm diameter drill, pick out the steel retaining washer, then grip the remainder of the fitting internally and pull out.
Put a bit of lube on the new fitting, push in past the O rings, then tap in the rest of way.
Bingo, just avoided the bill for a new fuel pump
What is the safest way to do this? a scredriver to scrape the plastic off? how to remove the steel part should i do that first or the chip away at the plastic? quite worried on how to do this since i broke it while changing the battery stupid me
 

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I Would do this:

Just fixed one for a customer, easiest way to remove is cut off top of the fitting then drill it out, a 10 .5mm diameter drill, pick out the steel retaining washer, then grip the remainder of the fitting internally and pull out.
Put a bit of lube on the new fitting, push in past the O rings, then tap in the rest of way.
Bingo, just avoided the bill for a new fuel pump
But I might modify the process a bit. I think I would find a drill bit that was just a tad bigger that the OD of the metal ring inside the teeth. That way, when you carefully drill, the teeth will fall away and you won't have to drag those teeth up the inner diameter of the hole.

The tool I would use to remove the remaining plastic would probably be an Easy-Out of appropriate size. Just turn it into the ID of teh plastic and pull gently. If you lube the hole, it should just twist and slide right out.
 

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What is the safest way to do this? a scredriver to scrape the plastic off? how to remove the steel part should i do that first or the chip away at the plastic? quite worried on how to do this since i broke it while changing the battery stupid me
I want to share my experience of removing it for anyone who might have the same problem and was worried about doing it themselves, i have to say i am not someone who has experience fixing mechanical parts of any sort but it was easy (sorry for the duplicate accounts but brutale800_iz was on my work account and i couldn't recover the password.

1. using a saw i manually and gently cut off at the L shape to give me direct access to the hole straight in.
2. using a 10.5mm steel drill (i would get a new one to avoid having a blunt one that will not scrape off the plastic) i manually started cutting off the plastic, in between i was vacuuming to make sure plastic parts do not go inside.
3. 10.5mm is perfect, it doesn't touch the wall but gets the metal ring as well as the rubber o rings perfectly. once i got to the metal ring it was scarped off from the side that touches the wall and i could see the teeth. using a small flat screw driver i flipped the teeth so they do not touch the wall. After i just bent the metal ring and it was easy to remove.
4. kept on drilling and vacuuming until i got to the first ring. This was a bit weird then because sometimes the drill would hold on the o-ring and not cut through. but i just kept at it and changed position frequently until it was exposed enough that i could take it out too.
5. same thing for the second o-ring manually rotating the drill tip with my hand until it was exposed and could come off.
6. after the 2nd and last o-ring was out of the picture it was still not super straight forward to remove, wiggled the drill in a bit until there was a edge i could grab and then pulled it out
7. clean off some remaining plastic pieces by using minute quantity of petroleum jelly on the tip of an allen key so the pieces would stick to it and be pulled out.
8. cleaned the walls of the tank nozzle with some paper and put a very small quantity of petroleum jelly on the nozzle wall, it went in super easily till the o-rings then had to push it in for the remaining raised part.

The part i bought was this, it was the cheapest i found in Europe (non UK)
Product no.: AP8104192-Z Fuel coupling for fuel pump - Aprilia / Moto Guzzi
https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=455350
 
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