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Discussion Starter #21
I stalled today at a light and then I couldn't start the engine again pressing the clutch with 1st gear engaged. ... Is this it? In that case I am glad it is happening so soon before the 600 mile service...
Yes, this is exactly it. I have the same symptoms on my TVL. The malfunctioning clutch switch also messes up quick shifter - I suggest turning it off until the clutch switch is replaced. The gear shifts happen much better this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
r6ymy, yours seems to be a different issue, or maybe even several issues happening at once. The clutch switch should not affect clutch pull. Something else is messed up.

Frankly, I'm not surprised by the TV/TVL clutch problems. Hydraulic clutch system with all of its plumbing and attached electronics is new to the MV Agusta F3 platform (only used on Stradale and Turismo Veloce if I'm not mistaken). So, growing pains.

I've had this happen half a dozen times now! The first time it happened pulling out of a right hand T junction uphill, clutch seemed like a microswitch, about where it would bit suddenly full engagement then a little pull back on the lever no drive, release a fraction and fully engaged again. At first I thought it was just me, but now that it's happend more times it seems like an issue with the clutch. It's going in next Thursday for a couple of warrantly jobs including the clutch basket TSB, hopefully they can sort it out then.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
FIRST MOD: The Mirrors!

Just completed my first TVL mod - mirror replacement using Rivale OEM factory mirrors. The setup is 100% plug-and-play.

Initial observations: The bar-end Rivale mirrors buzz about the same as factory TV mirrors, maybe a little bit less. However, the visibility is MUCH improved. I'm no longer looking at my elbows, but have a nice wide view of what's behind me. Side-to-side visibility is also much improved. The mirrors fold nicely, there are even rubber inserts integrated within the mirror mounts preventing the mirror glass from being scratched while folded. Very high quality setup.

The bar-end mirrors make the handlebar visibly wider but I don't line split and thus don't care. Added benefit is ability to stand up on the pegs without worrying about hitting the mirrors with forearms.

Also, to cover up the mounting points for the stock mirrors I've used replacement rubber feet for MacBook PRO off eBay. $2. Self-adhesive. Perfect fit.

Overall, the mod is not exactly cheap but the situational awareness is well worth it IMHO.
 

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I like the look of those Rivale mirrors on your TV. No lane splitting allowed where i live so I may go down the route you went.

Do you notice any turbulence changes with the removal of the stock mirrors?
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Do you notice any turbulence changes with the removal of the stock mirrors?
Not really. I could not tell any difference.

Now, the bar end mirrors may be making the steering somewhat less stable at speeds > 80 mph, though I cannot definitely say they do. Short wheel base + absence of steering damper = not going to be extremely stable at speed no matter what. You can easily fold the mirrors for those speed runs, problem solved :)

Rivale mirrors make it a little bit harder to maneuver the bike in and out of a garage. I also wish the mirrors would have more curvature to the glass (such as CRG Arrows), but they still offer quite an extended field of view compared to stock.

Lane splitting is illegal here in Colorado as well.
 

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I'd surely give up lane splitting for those CO mountain roads!

I noticed my large HDB handguards and side mirrors make my FE501 more unstable at 80 mph in windy conditions also. I'm sure it is more noticeable due to the 21" front knobby tire which floats a bit at high speed on the pavement. Plus these hand guards and the mirrors are big and flat with no hint of areo..
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
UPDATE: TVL at 2 months of ownership and 2000 miles

I. LOVE. THIS. BIKE.

As simple as that. Notes of interest:

1) Handling: Nice. The bike came stock with Pirelli Scorpion Trail tires with 38/38 psi recommended. I'm not sure what's the benefit of such high tire pressures. After riding with recommended 38/38 for a while I decided to air down to somewhat more conventional 32/34. The handling is MUCH improved. Also, the high speed wobble on highway is now gone. The bike is now very stable at speed.

The only handling downside so far is that I do not have complete confidence in the rear tire at full lean. It's doing something... I'm not sure what. Once the Scorpion Trails are gone, I'll replace 'em with something stickier to see if it makes a difference. Interestingly enough, the front tire is wearing down as fast if not faster than the rear.

2) Fuel mileage: Great. This is a 250 mile range bike (the longest I got so far was 230 miles to refuel - odometer miles, not GPS miles). Granted, I tend to fill it to the brim, but still. Every single full tank gave me over 200 odometer miles.

I ride twisties and backroads mostly. I'm not easy on the throttle.

3) Reliability: Mixed bag. Clutch switch and GPS sensor have failed. Both will be fixed by the dealer eventually. Rear sprocket has excessive free play. Meanwhile, solutions:

- Clutch switch: Disable quick shifter, make sure to be in neutral to start the engine. Ignore the rest.

- GPS sensor: My dealer got rid of the error. Took down the whole data logger functionality with it.

- Rear sprocket: Ordered replacement rubbers for the cush drive. Meanwhile, ignore.

4) Mods: None. Except for the mirrors. Described earlier in this thread.

6) Comfort: Exceptional. This is the most comfortable bike I ever owned.

7) Enjoyment: Through the roof!!!

:smile2::smile2::smile2:
 

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r6ymy, yours seems to be a different issue, or maybe even several issues happening at once. The clutch switch should not affect clutch pull. Something else is messed up.

I've had this happen half a dozen times now! The first time it happened pulling out of a right hand T junction uphill, clutch seemed like a microswitch, about where it would bit suddenly full engagement then a little pull back on the lever no drive, release a fraction and fully engaged again. At first I thought it was just me, but now that it's happend more times it seems like an issue with the clutch. It's going in next Thursday for a couple of warrantly jobs including the clutch basket TSB, hopefully they can sort it out then.

What is your Traction Control setting? The selling dealer set mine to 5, my two-hour closer maintaining dealer reset to 3. I had thought of this, but since the bike was going in for the clutch switch anyway, asked Richard at Phoenix MV Agusta to check it out. The key seems to be starting out on a slight uphill, the traction control "over-reacts" (actually reacting the way it's designed for that setting), so try setting it to 3; that was what the factory told Richard, confirming his initial thought as well. Richard confirmed the problem using a 2X4 flat on the shop floor, and confirmed the remedy as well. I'm getting ready to move and haven't had a chance to confirm the remedy, but I'm sure it will do the trick.
 

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The only handling downside so far is that I do not have complete confidence in the rear tire at full lean. It's doing something... I'm not sure what. Once the Scorpion Trails are gone, I'll replace 'em with something stickier to see if it makes a difference. Interestingly enough, the front tire is wearing down as fast if not faster than the rear.


"It's doing something" in corner or in exit of the corner? sliding or what? I used to change 2 front tires to one rear on my BMW (Pirelli angel GT) cause too much breaking before corner, F800R is not powerful to "eat" rear tire as MV does, i will change Scorpion T with Diablo Rosso 3 just to see difference...
 

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Discussion Starter #30
"It's doing something" in corner or in exit of the corner? sliding or what?
As I said, I'm not sure what's it doing.

The best I can describe it: once I bring the bike close to full lean on the edge of the tire the rear suddenly becomes soft. It does not step out. I don't think it's sliding. The bike still holds the line - I just don't like the feel. Standing the bike back up a few degrees restores the solid feel of the rear suspension.

TVL makes it easy to forget it's a tourer - I ride it as a sports bike too often :)

Gotta be able to solve this problem with proper tires and some experiments with air pressure.

I'm also thinking about Pirelli Diablo Rosso 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Then on Monday this week in stop and go traffic while feather the clutch in and out, something phyically changed in the clutch pull. Suddenly the engagement point was right at the bar. Moments before it was about half way out.
Jrocket, have you ever figured out what the problem was? How did you fix it?

Mine did exactly the same thing today ... :(
 

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Jrocket, have you ever figured out what the problem was? How did you fix it?

Mine did exactly the same thing today ... :(
I am pretty sure I know what the issue was. Although I don't trust my local dealership to be completely honest with me. They had my bike for 10 days, gave it back to me and told me that they had completed the sprag clutch TSB, when in fact they had not touched the bike. 2 days later the clutch pretty much stopped working in rush hour traffic. If the bike was in gear it was moving even with the clutch squeezed all the way in.

Long story short they kept the bike until it was fixed when I had it towed back to the shop at their expense and send a letter to the owner.

So officially they said the sprag clutch had no effect on what happened, and neither did the clutch switch. Both got replaced because of the bulletin though, and the clutch switch was bad. Causing issues with TC, quick shifting, and cruise control, not to mention the CEL.

According to them, the hydraulic fluid for the clutch was bad from MV, having absorbed a good deal of water, and causing it to boil in stop and go traffic when the clutch was being used frequently. They said they spoke with MV and it was being reported as a growing problem, and mine had been particularly bad. They also said that after my issue MV was considering a TSB on the fluid and having them replaced in all TVs.

Now that my bike is back, although I think the dogs or shifting fork in my transmission got damaged, because it takes far too much force sometimes to shift gears. I figure I will keep daily riding it until it gets bad enough that they are willing to fix it under warranty. Right now they don't think anything is wrong, but I can feel the difference. It isn't consistent, but there are times it takes a lot of force to shift, and others where it shifts perfectly. It doesn't seem to matter if I use the clutch or the quickshifter either, pressure at the shift lever doesn't change.

I am a much happier rider on my own bike. The loaner they gave me wasn't the most fun vehicle around. But that is a story for another day.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Jrocket - THANK YOU!!!

I sort of guessed that the clutch needed to be bled with the new hydraulic fluid. Your response validates my suspicion :)

I'll bleed the sucker and post the results. Just in case anyone else comes across the same issue.
 

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I've had odd clutch behaviour when pulling away from a standstill on a few occasions. Almost like sudden engagement and disengagement. Quite disconcerting. Seems to be when the engine is hot. Clutch bleed is something I'll try once I'm back home from my current tour. Thanks for suggesting Jrocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Follow up question:

What do you guys use for the brake/clutch hydraulic fluid? TVL shop manual specifies "AGIP DOT 4". Is this a good fluid or should I use something better?

Obviously, whatever was put in the bike originally did not do a good job...
 

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I changed out my clutch fluid after my clutch quit working. The problem was the clutch switch I think, but the reservoir had a lot of black residue.
 

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Bleeding the clutch did not solve the problem for me :(

Just as Bumpkin described: "sudden engagement and disengagement, seems to be when the engine is hot". Very inconsistent.
Did you flush the oil fluid out first, or just bleed the current fluid.

If the fluid is bad, bleeding won't do much on its own.

My bike "seems" to be better. I agree it was worst when the bike was hot, and I was in lots of heavy traffic with lots of clutch use. It has not reoccurred to me since they flushed the fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Update on the clutch:

The clutch on my TVL has been getting worse and worse. Finally it gave out completely, dumping all of its hydraulic fluid down on my garage floor. Luckily, at about the same time my dealer has received all the parts for the clutch TSB, replacement clutch switch, etc. so in for the repairs it went.

Now I'm happy to report.... everything is fixed!

According to the service tech the clutch switch sensor was not only messing up electronics and throwing ECU codes, it was also squirting fluid. Now, with the switch replaced all clutch related problems are solved.

I cannot fully express how much better the bike is now!
 
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