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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a used 2015 MV Agusta F3 800 7400 klms from an authorized MV Agusta dealer in Melbourne Australia, a few days after the purchase I was unable to start the bike and the dealer replaced the sprag clutch and at the same time I requested a lithium battery be installed . Since then the bike has been difficult to start usually requiring at least 4 attempts prior to starting and the dash flickers and goes blank each time,I keep the bike charged with a lithium compatible battery charger. Yesterday I was attempting to start the bike (at home luckily) and when I attempted the third time to start the bike shut completely down no power to the dash etc. If I connect the battery charger the is power to the bike although the dash rear brake light etc is flickering constantly, with a ticking ? of a relay under the fuel tank and my usb dongle attached read 14.2 V. When the battery charger is turned off no power to my bike and usb dongle is blank (no power). I tried again this morning and the issue remain - the question is WHY and HOW? Am I unlucky with a faulty battery?
 

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Just to be obvious have you checked that they have done up the connections to the new battery tight as your symptoms seem to have got worse after the dealer worked on the bike and it seems you have voltage but insufficient current to crank it over.

Getting to the battery is a bit of a rigmarole, download the manual from Donsy's site Team Double 3 Racing | MV Agusta
Also there is a newish map release that should improve the starting procedure, did the dealer check the map date in your bike if they are an authorised mob they should have done this and uploaded the latest one.

What is this USB dongle thing you are using and what is it attached to?

Prior to taking it to the dealer for the sprag was the starter motor spinning up ok but the bike never seem to "catch" this is classic sprag fault if the bike was barely turning over that points to a faulty battery or charging system, if you have a multi meter google "motorcycle charging system diagnostic" and do a few simple tests. A new battery won't help if the bike isn't charging it properly while your riding.
 

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All symptoms point to a defective Li-battery -- They are still fickle beasts -- I have one that shows full 14,4 Voltage up until a load of 4- 5 amps, any current draw above that and it collapses completely.. It has full 4Amp-hour capacity when discharged slowly with a lightbulb,
but it will not deliver the 200+ Amps to cranck up a bike- Most chargers and testers only check capacity with a low current draw..
The company who sold me this battery keeps insisting that it is "Good" -- :bandit: Thus will not replace it.. I now use it for my shooting setup (WiFi Target camera + Chronograph)

A lot of the Li batteries sold for Bikes, even by dealers are the same chinese manufacturer, but rebadged in a multitude of different "Makes"

They have a dismal failure rate, right out of the box .. Some of them "die" with the first deep discharge.

I have also seen that some bikes just do not deliver a high enough voltage on the charging circuit to fully charge a Li battery
If your bike can not supply at least 14,4 - 14,7 Volts, then a Li battery will never be fully charged by the bike, and will rely on an external charger to keep it fully charged.
 

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Lots of lithium batteries sold for bikes are too small for the bike. It is likely due to trying to sell at a competitive price as a conventional battery. Even so, the small batteries are lighter and produce more amps than conventional but they can fail fairly easily.

I store my bike using a lithium specific battery maintainer. I have a fair amount of experience with lithium due to my hobby grade radio controlled hobbies of helicopters, cars, trucks, drones and boat....all Lithium powered.

Just because the voltage is correct doesn't mean the ability to crank the engine is correct. Same goes for capacity. Battery can show as full but just can't deliver. Its like a stretched out rubber band. Over stretch it and it won't hold.

Tighten the contact for the battery as a first step. If it is tight then replace battery with known good battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the replies the software was updated with the new sprag clutch. I had asked the salesman prior to agreeing to purchase if this had been attended ie the sprag clutch and the software update and was advised it was attended. So I was disappointed when the bike would not start after 2 days of purchase and advised the sprag clutch and software update had not been attended to. The usb dongle is is phone charger that connects to the sae cable from the battery it has a led volt display also. I am hoping it is a faulty battery and will try to look properly on my next day off work. Just wanting the bike to start!
 

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Could be a faulty battery or it could be that the cables haven't been tightened properly. When you say USB, where are you plugging it into? I didn't know the F3's had USB ports?
 

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He has plugged it into the SAE charger connection.....

Here's a quick test for the battery. Watch that dongle voltage reading when you hit the starter button. If it drops toward 10v or less then the battery is bad.

At 9v the EFI system shuts off. This would also explain the dash flickering you described.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I tried the charger with the battery in the bike comes up on charger as dead battery. I removed the battery tonight and connected the charger with the battery out to double check still records as dead battery. Day off tomorrow will contact dealer to arrange swap for a new battery. Hoping to finally get an Mv F3 that starts with one push of the button.
Also thanks for the replies I received really helped me with sorting this battery drama!
 

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