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How common is this problem and also rear break is not workin as well. Call me a bit disappointed because from the delivery nightmare to now no rear break and suddenly a failure exhaust valve malfunction has me really thinking I made a mistake buying this brand new 2015 F4R last fall. All these issues with a dealer that doesn't care to respond to my calls and to top it off there isn't even a authorized dealer anywhere close to me So even to service this bike under warranty is gonna take shipping it 500 miles at least to the nearest dealer smh. So with that said does anyone have a clue on how to actually go about fixing my issues. I'm in Detroit Michigan USA so even advice on having it serviced would be helpful. Sad to say at this point I wish I would have bought a fucking Ducati because at least I have a dealer 6 miles away yet they aren't authorized to do any type of warranty work to my F4 Thank u in advance for anyone willing to help me tackle this nightmare that shouldn't even be happening with a BRAND NEW Bike let alone an exotic machine as an F4. I feel like I just bought a Lamborghini brand new only to realize the headaches of lil shit that shouldn't be happening to a machine with only 1200 break in miles on it. WTF
 

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Just disconnect the exhaust valve cables... Bike runs & sounds better without the contraption anyway... http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/2193241-post10.html

Maybe your rear brake needs bleeding... Simple maintenance??

These are good bikes, more exclusive than a Ducati. You just need to show her some love & learn how to cope with the foibles! :)
 

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The problem with the brake is known to all MVs. The brake flyid container is too close to the exhaust. So the brake fluid loses its function with too much heat. Most people solve this problem using the foot brake.

I also have problems with the exhaust valve on my F4 MY11. I have not fixed it yet. But I'm 99% sure that the actuator that controls the valve is deserted. This is a warranty case for you. How to solve this when the dealer is so far away I can not help you with. But I wish you good luck.
 

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That is where the actuator lives on all of them. If you simply disconnect the actuating cables, you should be fine. Leave the electronics alone.

As for the rear brake, as others have said, change the fluid, bleed the system thoroughly. Some have had success removing the master cylinder and inverting it to bleed all of the air out. Even a minor amount of air is detrimental in such a small system.
 

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I just went back to read the OP. Man-o-man. These machines are easy to work on. Learn about them. Do some research on here to find the manual (top of each maintenance section).

If you are at all competent with a wrench, the minor issues that do crop up are easily remedied.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey thank you all for the pointer and suggestions. I'm definitely a hands on type of guy and it boils down to time most of the days so simple posts and helpful pointers helps A lot. So ty all again
 

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Not sure what happened to my last attempt to post but I was all good with disconnecting my cables and had nothing show up on my cluster. However today I went for a ride and the weather isn't as hot as it's been and sure enough exhaust valve failure came up again. So now what ??? Should I ship the bike to get warrenty work to fix this or is there something else I can do ??
 

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If the bike is still under warranty then get the dealer to look at it.

But first, is the valve in the exhaust free to move? with the cables disconnected you should be able to rotate the valve by hand.

If the valve is free to move, is the pulley on the actuator moving when the engine is running?

Many of these types of faults are caused by connection issues. Disconnect the wiring plug from the actuator and spray the contacts in the plug and socket with contact cleaner. Let them dry then spray or coat the contacts with dielectric grease before reassembling.

Tony
 

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When mine went out the dealer replaced the servo under the tank. Apparently the gears are plastic and prone to break. Go figure, 28K for a bike and plastic servo gears. Anyway, if its broken, disconnecting the cables won't fix the error code because the sensor is in the servo. Once that is replaced you can disconnect them if you like. The dealer told be to keep the cables and valve "greased" so it is less likely to stick which they believe is the cause of the plastic gears breaking. I also had an issue with the rear brake...twice. The last time they replaced the master cylinder. I don't and they didn't have an answer for that. Maybe, as others have suggested, relocate the MC away from the exhaust.
 

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This was my first error on the F4 fixed with a new part and aftermarket exhaust and recently had no throttle while riding :frown2:with the Gas position error, so if you claim warranty for this issue just check if you ve the upgraded drive by wire throttle.
 

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The actuator for the exhaust valve is not so fond of moisture. Looks like the gasket does not do what it's supposed to.

Noe that the new actuator is in place, everything works again.
 

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The actuator for the exhaust valve is not so fond of moisture. Looks like the gasket does not do what it's supposed to.

Noe that the new actuator is in place, everything works again.

From what I've read here, MV's in general are not fond of moisture. I never ride in the rain/if it's going to rain, and washes are far and few between. Of course, staying out of the rain makes it less likely to need a wash. Garaged, totally pampered, shown lots of love. Emma seems to positively respond to that so far. :)
 
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