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Discussion Starter #1
If you increase the ride height of your 2013 F4 to match that of the RR you will get an immense improvement in nimbleness and lightness of steering.
The 2013 F4 ride height adjustment from page 85 of the shop manual calls for 218 mm for the F4 and 225 mm for the F4RR. So the rear of the F4 RR is 7 mm higher than the F4, decreasing the trail of the front wheel.
If you increase the rear ride height of the F4 by 8mm (which is about two turns of the ride height turnbuckle) the effort required to change direction will be much less. I further increased the ride height to 11 mm on my F4 and it's perfect.
I have BST carbon fiber wheels on my F4, and the handling was better but still not great. With the increased ride height, it's perfect. It's now a bike I really enjoy riding. I'm sure when people try the F4 and then the F4 RR they say "Wow! The Ohlin's suspension and forged aluminum wheels make this RR handle great!". No. I believe it is primarily the reduced trail on the front wheel due to the increased rear ride height that makes the RR feel much better than the standard F4.

The pitch on the coarse turnbuckle thread that adjusts the ride height is 1.5 mm. So every complete turn of the turnbuckle increases it's length 3 mm, since it's a turnbuckle and you are turning two screws at once. If we assume the turnbuckle angle is roughly 45 deg and acts on the swing arm at half it's length, we get 3mm * sin(45 deg)*2 = 4mm change in ride height per turn roughly.

I realize that decreasing trail also decreases stability, but I don't think I'm in the tank slapper range. I've had it up to 120 mph since the increase and it's solid as a rock.

Raising your rear ride height is super easy to do, and much easier than dropping the triple clamp. I highly recommend experimenting with it.
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