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@allanl: Yes, you can post the link.
 

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I seem to recall a MV in your country that broke a con-rod early on in its life being discussed on this forum...maybe that is the one....
 

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That's about $1200 which is a decent price if the head has all the valves in good shape. Just getting the broken guides replaced and fitting new valves in your old head would probably equal or exceed that price.

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Yes. Well just hit the button. The guy gave a little discount and will include timing chain, tensioner and valve cover. Let’s see when it gets here.

So now I’m assuming the following to start rebuilding:

1- new gasket

2- head nuts and washers (not really sure that need to be replaced)

3- camshafts sprocket bolts and Nordlock washers (thinking of replacing all just to have peace of mind)

4- o rings for the camshaft stands and valve cover

Anything else?


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Cylinder head nuts and washers should not need replacement, unless you just want to or they are damaged.

Good luck with your repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Cylinder head nuts and washers should not need replacement, unless you just want to or they are damaged.

Good luck with your repairs.
Good. Cleaned them and all is fine.

Now on the process to get gaskets and orings.

Will let you know the progress when parts arrive.

Thank you a lot for all the help so far and stay safe!


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Discussion Starter #49
Hey, few updates.

Got the cylinder head last week, cleaned everything, tested surface plane, valve leak down (gasoline with it upside dow - very slow level decrease, not sure if due to evaporation) and measured shins. Did not measured valve clearance because I was not able to rotate camshafts and did not wanted to repeat installation just to take measurements. Will do later.

Anything else I should be looking for?




Also cleaned upper part of the cylinders and pistons. Does this looks clean enough for reassemble?



Now waiting on gaskets and few other stuff to be delivered from Italy.

Thanks guys


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Excellent work @allanl I have learned a lot from your pictures and posts. I never got that far down into my engine. It is good to know that it can be done. Remarkable how those bolts on the cams came undone to cause so much damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Excellent work @allanl I have learned a lot from your pictures and posts. I never got that far down into my engine. It is good to know that it can be done. Remarkable how those bolts on the cams came undone to cause so much damage.
Good to know. I’m learning a lot also. This is the first engine I disassembled also.
When you actually do it you understand it’s not difficult, just need attention and dedication, specially cleaning stuff.

My experience is that reassemble is a lot easier and pleasuring. Hope this is going to be the case with this also.

And yes, I will definitely recommend to change those bolts on every valve check. Aside from timing chain tensioner stuck, there was nothing else wrong with the engine.


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Your pistons look fine.... I would suggest you install the cams and measure clearances before installing the head. You can rotate the cams with a wrench to get lobes in the proper position for measurement.
Now is the time to check and adjust clearances as needed....much easier than after putting the engine together.
This is the point where valve adjustments would be done if building an engine in a shop.
 
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Discussion Starter #53
Thanks for advise. Will probably have some time before parts arrive, so will do that.

Was looking to the timing procedure at the manual and got one question. It says to place piston 1 on TDC burst phase. But how do I know if it is burst phase or intake?


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That means TDC Compression....both valves closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
So just leave the phonic wheel at the indicated position and time cams as indicated?

My question was that placing the phonic wheel as indicated leave piston 1 and 4 at TDC, but unsure if piston 1 is after compression or exhaust.

Does the ECU understand the phase anyway?


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Yes...the ECU knows which cylinder is on what stroke from the cam sensor....or phase sensor, same thing.
So when timing the cams, 1 and 4 will both be at TDC and the camshaft installation determines which cylinder is on compression and which is on overlap.
 
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Discussion Starter #57
Guys, few updates.

Received parts from Italy, already installed cylinder head, camshaft and timing chain tensioner.

Noticed that timing marks on sprockets are slight off the plane (as indicated it should be):

Intake (higher)



Exhaust (lower):


Did several rotations and it looks fine. Note that I would not be able to align it since if I moved both one tooth, they would also not be aligned (intake would be lower and exhaust higher).

Is this something I should be concerned?


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I don't think you are checking it correctly.

For a start your camera angle on the exhaust is off, why are you looking at it from the top? Look at the marks parallel with the case.

Count the chain links between the marks as per your service book.

IMHO it looks like you haven't aligned the intake marks flush with the cases. Turn the crank a few degrees until your intake camshaft mark is flush with the case and then check the exhaust.

I suspect your marks will then lineup.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I don't think you are checking it correctly.

For a start your camera angle on the exhaust is off, why are you looking at it from the top? Look at the marks parallel with the case.

Count the chain links between the marks as per your service book.

IMHO it looks like you haven't aligned the intake marks flush with the cases. Turn the crank a few degrees until your intake camshaft mark is flush with the case and then check the exhaust.

I suspect your marks will then lineup.
The camera angle on the exhaust was to show the timing mark.

I can align both with the case by rotating crankshaft and there is 24 links between timing marks (as indicated on manual).

The problem is that I only achieve this alignment with crankshaft a little bit after the mark (piston 1 TDC).














And by looking to the chain position at TDC, it looks like I would only be able to align camshafts timing marks to case with crankshaft either before or after the TDC position.


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You are a tooth off..... try again. Don't forget to take all slack out of the intake side of the chain, as the tensioner is on the exhaust side.
It can be a real PIA to get it right.
 
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