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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well to make a long story short my 2010 F4 with smokes really bad after cold start up then vanishes after i run it shut it off then start
it again. Just started doing it I changed the oil in it with 10w-40mobil
racing T . Was fine for weeks then the bike sat awhile about 1 week
I take it out get on it a bit park it to eat some lunch it smokes a little
then goes away the bike has no lose of power seemed fine .
I let it set over night for about 12 hours and started it the smoke
was so bad and thick white that it filled my garage and stunk
pretty bad . So i checked the oil it was fine no milky checked anti-
clean as can be . The air box cover had oil residue in it and some on
the plates just a little like a car with a poor Pcv system
So i am going to inspect the plugs and see were it
goes got two out but the outer coils hit the frame do they disconnect
at the coil some were or does the boot pop off the coil .
I am not going to pull to hard and break something so a little advice
would be much appreciated. Are these bike that sensitive were they need the 10w60 oil ?
 

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Well to make a long story short my 2010 F4 with smokes really bad after cold start up then vanishes after i run it shut it off then start
it again. Just started doing it I changed the oil in it with 10w-40mobil
racing T . Was fine for weeks then the bike sat awhile about 1 week
I take it out get on it a bit park it to eat some lunch it smokes a little
then goes away the bike has no lose of power seemed fine .
I let it set over night for about 12 hours and started it the smoke
was so bad and thick white that it filled my garage and stunk
pretty bad . So i checked the oil it was fine no milky checked anti-
clean as can be . The air box cover had oil residue in it and some on
the plates just a little like a car with a poor Pcv system
So i am going to inspect the plugs and see were it
goes got two out but the outer coils hit the frame do they disconnect
at the coil some were or does the boot pop off the coil .
I am not going to pull to hard and break something so a little advice
would be much appreciated. Are these bike that sensitive were they need the 10w60 oil ?
Due to the problems you are having MV have sent a bulletin out advising all 2010 on wards, only to full the engine oil up to a 1/4 on the sight glass, your dealer should be awere of this.
 

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MV also say only to run 10-60 ..... 10-40 is very different, i just had a smoking issue with my 2010, but that was after riding it hard... it would blow smoke on start up and sometimes when at big rev's

i drained the oil and as said above u should run the oil lower on the sight glass, i run mine now at about 1/4-1/2 way between the high and low marks on the sight glass... and that has so far fixed the problem

i'd be replacing the oil with the correct 10-60 and run it at the new revised oil level
I can also tell u where it goes, the left hand side throttle body, because the bike leans to the left on the stand, the oil from the airbox runs to the left hand throttle body and sits down there so on start up it'll blow smoke
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info guy really appreciated. Did any one
think of putting and in line oil catch on that hose or a breather?
I have one on a car i race cause it suck oil out through the
PCV back to the throttle body and coated it . Installed
the catch caught all of it and you just poor it back into
the crank case when full or in this case maybe not at
all and just empty every oil change . Just a thought
 

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I've said this before _ If I bought a bike new, and it pumps it's oil out when I ride it hard on the road, I will take it back for a refund _ I realy would.

This could kill you or people riding behind you. Your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My bike never smokes under heavy load just runs good
condensation aka water out the tail pipe after the
smoke dissipates . I did change the oil and did
put more in then what a bulletin you guys are
talking about said . So im going to change the plugs
and I am surprised cheep copper plugs in there :(
Time for iridium and a Bmc filter mite as well !
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I am acknowledge his point and take it seriously .
I am going to try to run two k/n mini breathers on the air
box hoses plug off the ones the the air box and run the proper oil level since I know what it is now .
If it persist then to the dealer it goes and its internal engine proble
 

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i thought of running a catch can, was trying to come up with one that could drain oil back into the crack case directly..... but as i said when i droped the oil level to the corect level that MV now recomend, it has been fine, even tryed a wheelie today just to see if it would do it again, and nope nothing.... simple fix

i agree with u donsy.... but fact is its just an oil level issue, if u run any bike with to much oil the same thing will happen... No hiding the fact tho that MV should have got the sight glass right from the factory.... but at least its very simple, rather then the 2013 with a fualty electronic package :/ ...... seems MV really need to left there game
 

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Oil level

Dons has a point.
I fill Jorge´s 2010 F4 to the sight mark, and he uses his hard on trackdays, and never a problem. :stickpoke
 

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yeah its a good point.... mine only smoked when used hard when it was over filled.... before when it was right on the full mark it would only do it some times after a wheelie on start up.... now with the oil level right it doesnt do it at all

i realise this seems to be an issue with the engine, but really have never seen an engine blow smoke only some times in the same conditions.... the only engine issue that could cause oil out the exhaust and through the air intake would be a valve or a piston ring.... and ive never seen one of those fix itself ? haha
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I vented the hose directly off the crankcase to
air via K/N breather filter and changed the oil and
filled to suggested level presto no smoke at all !!
I threw in some iridium plugs and a BMC air filter
while I had the bike apart runs great and
no smoke.
:yo::f4:
 

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i'd give it a few good runs and check the air filter/breather on the crank case, just to make sure your not geting much oil in it.....

i also had another thought.... i wonder how much vacum the airbox can create on the breather line? this would be more so if u had poor breathing air filters..... it could be possible that some of these bikes r causing to much vacum through the breathers, and that could be causing the oil to be sucked up rather then pushed by blow by ( which we know its not)
just a thought, it could explane why some 2010's do it while others r fine, could be as simple as a fualt in some of the airboxes causing to much vacum

thoughts donsy??
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update after inspection all is good no oil in the air box or
out the tail pipe after adding the breather to the right
side crankcase hose I even run the oil at normal level.
The bike runs a hell of a lot better with the iridium
plugs and BMC air filter in it what a difference !
The factory air filter and plugs would be first
upgrades to these bikes in my opinion .
The power of the bike is so much smoother.
I am very happy and loving this thing when
ever I get the chance to ride it it has 3800 miles
on it and more will be added :)
 

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I tried iridium plugs in my 312R destroyed after 1500 miles dealer advised to return to standard plugs and so far no problems
 

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The 2 hoses to the air box have a different purpose. One is the crankcase breather, the other is fresh air to the second air system solenoid valve.
Using oil of the wrong viscosity will certainly increase oil mist into the breather.
As will a high oil level. High rpm runs followed by long high rpm deceleration (think downshifting a couple of gears at the end of a high rpm straight, but not using hard braking just coasting toward a corner or stop) will generate a lot of low pressure in the air box which will also draw oil mist up the breather.

Sounds like you have it sorted (although I think the breather disconnect was not needed).

And as for iridium plugs causing problems....highly unlikely. More likely the fuel used is causing problems than a fine wire electrode plug. The only change with the iridium plugs vs regular is a higher voltage spark and longer life.
 
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