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Bummer. Those are soft inserts and easy to cross thread, so be careful with the new ones. I Have used regular 6mm well nuts as replacements.
 

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Bummer. Those are soft inserts and easy to cross thread, so be careful with the new ones. I Have used regular 6mm well nuts as replacements.
Those are larger than 6mm and are hexagonal in shape Chuck. You are thinking of something else.

I have a couple of spare in my supply if your dealer is crappy and can't get for you quickly.....
MV has them in stock. So does my dealer. They aren't very expensive.
 

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I meant M6:

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The screw....yes. The wellnut is another matter!! ;)

It is about 10m and hexagonal in shape. I replaced them on my Brutale when the outer edges were mushroomed up making it difficult to get the air box back in place.
 

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True, but I have used them.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Surprisingly got a couple of M6 rubber well nuts from the local fastener shop. Also got some M4 Allen screws for the manifold clamps. Well nuts are a bit long so will try to cut them down. In the meantime I will order some from MV.
Back to the rough running. Spark plugs look ok but will replace them with NGK CR9EKs double ground electrodes which was what was fitted. Cannot justify iridiums at the moment. When I bought the plugs from the local bike shop they suggested that tight exhaust valve clearances maybe a possible cause. Thought I should check this while everything is apart. Trouble is the manuals I have got thanks to Donsy state the throttle bodies need to be removed but I am unable to find a section in the manual or a thread on the forum that covers this. Is this essential? Am l missing something? From what I have read on other threads there are some traps for the unwary like broken injectors etc so I don't want to start without some detailed instructions. Appreciate it if someone can point me to the section in the manual an appropriate thread or some instructions.
 

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Depends how much you have to remove to make enough working room, and room to remove the cam cover.
Do a search through the forum and you will find a number of past people who have used various methods to achieve a result.
Whatever you do, do not try a shortcut with the cam chain tensioner or valve timing If you have to change shims. It will cause you angst and waste time making it right.
 

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Removing the throttle bodies is a simple task. Disconnect injector plugs, loosen clamps, pull up and out, disconnect throttle cables.
It is the injector wire plugs that are the tricky part as their wire locks don't release easily. I use a small hooked pick and just lift the wire out of position. Once free from the injector it is easy to put the clip back in position, then reconnecting is a simple push on affair.
 
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@Arnie: The well nuts expand as they are drawn tight. I would first insert them into the Air Box holes and draw them tight before installing the Air Box into the frame. This will let you see if they need to be shortened or if the rubber will simply expand to fill the hexagonal hole.

For the throttle body removal, as Ed has said, the Electrical Connections are finicky and need to be carefully removed.
The instructions are in Section G of the Shop Manual, page 23.
When reinstalling the Throttle Bodies, significant manipulation is required to reseat the rubber sleeves to the TBs. Using a bit of rubber grease will help in that endeavor.

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Discussion Starter #30
Injector wire plugs are the tricky/finicky part maybe an understatement. Tiny fingers would help and dentist picks are my friend. It never ceases to amaze me how long I take to do things but I got the injector plug wires off without breaking anything so I guess that's the main thing. Set up makes more sense now it is apart. Thanks for the responses.
 
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Discussion Starter #31
Things deteriorating. Continuing with checking valve clearances. Was removing a cam cover breather hose which had a worm drive hose clamp when I think I dropped a screw driver tip down No. 4 spark plug hole. Tried vacuuming it out without success. Have ordered a bore-scope with a magnet to see what I can see and maybe remove it with the magnet. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue and how they got on.
 

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Bummer..... stick a magnet down the plug hole into the combustion chamber and then blow a compressed air stream to create turbulence inside that might move the bit around to get stuck on the magnet???
 
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Put a magnet in the end a piece of normal fuel/vent line and put a piece of copper wire in behind it and go fishing.......you can bend the copper to reach the edges of the cylinder
Easier with the piston at BDC (y)
The angle is less
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Got some magnets from eBay to fit in vent line to fit down spark plug hole and went fishing. Picked up the screw driver tip a few times but fell off each time at spark plug hole. Also got a Stahlwille flexible magnetic pick up tool from eBay and eventually got the screw driver tip out. Better and cheaper than removing the head.
image.jpeg
Now for checking the valve clearances. I had thought that removing the valve cover on my previous GSXR1000 was tight but this is tighter. Eventually got it by removing coolant tank. Most of the exhaust clearances are tight. Starting to regret breaking my vow that I would only ever have bikes with screw tapped adjusters. Remove the radiators again. At least the cam chain tensioner seems to be ok. Then I started reading threads about tight cam bearing bolts. Guess what, mine are defuinitely tight. Haven't been able to undo them with standard Allen key so far! Will keep trying suggestions in threads.
 

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Glad to see you got the screwdriver tip out!

Your valve adjustment will be easier if you lift the frame out of the way as designed.
 

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Also, rotate cams so valves adjacent to the cam cap you are loosening are not depressed.
Break all the screws loose just a bit while turning the engine to release pressure Then set at TDC #1 and proceed with removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
All this just to adjust the valve clearances. Oh for tapper adjusters!



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I went through this last year. I posted alot of info on this. The members are a great help. I never got the phonic wheel to line up exactly. But she seems to be running fine. Will probably break her down again just to make sure cam cover screws have not loosened. I should have done what you did in the photo. Where you raise the frame up like that. I did it with the engine in situ. Someone told me this “ take pictures of the phonic wheel at TDC BEFORE so you can see how your bike is lined up” I failed to do so.
 

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Things deteriorating. Continuing with checking valve clearances. Was removing a cam cover breather hose which had a worm drive hose clamp when I think I dropped a screw driver tip down No. 4 spark plug hole. Tried vacuuming it out without success. Have ordered a bore-scope with a magnet to see what I can see and maybe remove it with the magnet. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue and how they got on.
Magnet on a string
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Things are going from bad to worse. Hammer driver didn't work on #1 cam bearing cap bolts nor did battery impact driver. Air impact wrench did the trick with 3 of the bolts. When the 5 mm hex rounded the recessed fourth bolt and the Torx bit did not work the 5.5 mm hex came to the rescue. Started to turn the engine anti clockwise to release the pressure on the next cam bearing cap and I could hear the cam chain slipping on the bottom drive sprocket. For some now inexplicable reason I stupidly kept going maybe hoping the chain would pick up. Rotation stopped at 180 presumably due to a piston contacting a valve. Although its not recommended I thought I would just turn the engine backwards (clockwise). However the engine wouldn't turn in this direction either. Maybe the cam chain has jammed on the bottom sprocket. I thought if I can get the cams out I could possibly sort out the jammed cam chain. Started on #4 cam bearing cap bolts. Air impact wrench only loosened one bolt. Torx and 5.5 mm bits didn't work this time. Started drilling the head of one of the bolts but slow going. Very frustrated.
 
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