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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Its been a long time since I've been on here, work and family commitments always take most of our time.

Anyway, I thought it was time to get the F4 back on the road as I haven't ridden it in over 4 years. Unfortunately I fell into that trap of connecting the trickle charger then putting the cover on the bike and forgetting about it.
Big mistake, I replaced all the fluids recently and realized I hadn't drained the fuel tank years earlier. There was about 4 litres of "varnish and treacle" in the tank.

Needless to say, the pump did not prime when turning the key.

So off came the tank and out came the pump and this is what I found.

The oem hoses are rubbish, they have completely fallen apart and the hose clamps are a nightmare to undo without the pliers. The main O ring seems to have a notch out of it (Is that meant to be there? )

This is a work in progress, so I'll update as I move through the process. But here are the photos of the pump uninstalled.
 

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wow, that's decayed nicely, what's in your fuel! The o'ring should not have the cut in it, that may leak if you reuse......time for new one me thinks. Good luck with the rebuild.
 

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The o-ring gets cut by a notch in the tank mating surface. There are threads about this. Easy preventive measure is to build up and shape epoxy to smooth that notch out. You need a new o-ring. Available from McMaster-Carr for pennies. Again, documented in other threads.

Click-R clamps can be unlocked with a small flat blade screwdriver, but you really should invest in the proper pliers...available on e-bay among other places. Again, documented in other threads.

Take the pump and jump it to a 12 volt battery to test if it runs. Sometimes a pump frozen with dead fuel can be "shocked" into movement with a direct battery jump start. Can also be submerged in carb cleaner to dissolve the gum.

Filter is available in auto parts stores. Common part number is documented in a prior threads. So is the fuel hose.

Time for a little "Search" and read.
 

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@Ozboy: I have everything here to supply you with the correct rubber parts, o-rings/J30R10 hose etc. for the rebuild. The Mahle filter is available from the web...or you can get an aftermarket equivalent.

Do what Ed says for your pump, and if you can't find the parts you need locally, let me know and we'll work something out.
 

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Ozboy;
The correct Clic-R pliers are available on eBay for $8-9 with free shipping
Don't waste your time trying to remove them with a screwdriver
:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the help guys. I've sourced the parts from a local dealer, who has also supplied the worm drive clamps ( I do like them)

Evo Chris, the fuel had been sitting for about 4 years, it was premium 98 ron fuel. I've scraped the gum off the main pump housing. so its looking a little more civilized now ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Put everything back together and now I have all the dash lights flashing when starting, although the bike still won't start.

The pump does prime and the engine kicks over, but doesn't fire up.

Does anyone know what the flashing dash lights is alluding to? Can't find it in search.
 

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Poor battery voltage.
 

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Hi Folks,

I have the EXACT same issue.

I was wondering if someone could tell me the size of the hose between filter and pump and filter and assembly. I have seen 2 sizes mentioned on different threads. 1/4 & 5/16. I know it is J30R10 that I need but just need confirmation on the size!

Many Thanks!
 

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It's the 5/16 size. ....1/4 is about 6 mm I.D.

5/16 is around 8 mm I.D.
 

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Thanks for the info!

One other thing. I haven't managed to locate the SAE J30R10 standard. Is there a European version that anyone knows of???
That is a global Society of Automotive Engineers standard. Submersible high pressure fuel hose.

Silentservice 703 has a roll of it and sells needed lengths to members at his cost (it is not an inexpensive hose!!). Send Chuck a PM to inquire. Even though he is on a vacation from the forum he will probably get your PM and respond quickly.
 

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Explodingtoad;
Try your local BMW dealership.......you need ~ 23cm

This stupid spec (it's about how much fuel can permeate the hose from the inside) is from the State
of California, but adopted lots of places

Who in their right mind would care how many molecules would go through the hose INTO THE SURROUNDING FUEL!!!!
 

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Rob;
The Ducati geniuses don't realize there are 2 types of hose in the fuel tank.....
You need about 9 inches of PRESSURIZED submersible fuel line, the rest is just submersible vent and drain line :grin2:
If you do my F4 fuel line mod this is all you'll need......19 1/2" or 50cm plus the clamps
Is the hose shown in your post different from the hose (SAE 30R10) in my post? Also, while I am not currently contemplating a fuel line change, I would like to know more about your mod since I am sure I will have to do this one day.
 

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The "special" pressurized submersible fuel hose is only from the pump to the filter to the pump base...the pressurized hoses.

The mod Noel has done is bringing the fuel cap vent and water drain hoses (not pressurized or attached to the pump itself) together and out the old evap canister inlet port....which is the tank drain on non-evap equipped models. He plugs the 2 outlets in the pump base where those hoses used to attach.
 

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Same thing happened to my F4......I only ride it once a year to keep t lubed and the fuel pump wont prime. Im sure its the ethanol gas. Good tips above Im going to try taking the pump out today and cleaning it.
 
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