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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all
I've just fitted a new battery to the bike ( yes it is the right way round ). Any way, when I put the key in the ignition the dash lights up and rev counter sweeps and neutral light is on. Well, after the self test the neutral light goes out, I have no indicators, the driving lights are on but no switching between main beam and dipped lights, no brake lights and nothing at the starter button.
On the plus side the fuel pump primes, the horn works and the fan manual override works.
Any of you helpful people have any suggestions where to start.
Thanks in advance.
 

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First check your fuses.

The check that you got ALL of the wires connected othe correct terminals.

Then realize that the headlights only come on when the bike is running....

Then go through the troubleshooting section of the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Am I right in assuming that if the diode had blown I would have no dash either.
 

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No.

Please put your bike model and year in your signature line.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok think I have got my signature sorted, not very good with internet type stuff, although I thought the title of the post might have given the game away.
 

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Ok think I have got my signature sorted, not very good with internet type stuff, although I thought the title of the post might have given the game away.
The title of the post goes away for reference after page one. Then it is a hunt to figure out which bike we are talking about and after several pages and other posters adding "well MY bike does this and this" then the OP's bike year and model is lost or hard to find.

AT 30 pages into a thread while troubleshooting it becomes and inconsiderate pain-in-the-ass.

Thank-you for sorting your signature line.

Now, where are we with your electrical issue?

:smoking:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The latest development with my electrical problem has become somewhat more difficult to diagnose. I went to check what power I had going to various relays, fuses etc, but when I put the key in the bike and pushed the starter it fired into life. I still have no indicators and assume this is the flasher relay as the fuse is shared with other items, horn etc. I will post again if things get bad again, but thanks for your help.
 

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The INTERMITTENCY (Flasher Relay) is located on the left die of the bike in a cluster between the GENERAL REALY and the START SOLENOID.

Pull it, clean it's contacts, put it back.

While you are there, do the same to the other two relays.

1.jpg

Another possibility with the turn signals is that the nose contacts at the mirrors stalk bas in the electrical plate are misaligned or dirty.

Follow the procedure for nose removal EXACTLY and clean those contacts. Reinstall the nose with a turn signal actuated and only tighten the stalk base until the signal works...it is a very low torques value. Repeat for the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Went back out to the bike to check the indicator relay and now back to square one. I think it may have something to do with the alarm.
 

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FFS, here we go again....alarms cause issues with these bikes. Dump the f*cking thing...

There are probably 100 "My Alarm F*cked Up My Bike" threads in here.
 
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?

Went back out to the bike to check the indicator relay and now back to square one. I think it may have something to do with the alarm.
I understand the insurance requirements in the UK.....also the motorcycle theft rate in the UK (off the end of the chart)

But, fuck me, doesn't anyone in the UK make an alarm that WORKS , WITHOUT FUCKING THE ELECTRICS UP???????
Do they inspect the functionality of your alarm?

Me, I'd leave the alarm......but cut every connection to the harness and use heat shrink to make the wires look connected
And power it off the parking light circuit, if they need to see the alarm active

We all know what happens to stolen bikes .......they're parted out for crash parts.......
OR TURNED INTO TRACK BIKES........
Pressure the Police and insurance companies to look for stolen bikes at track days

I HATE THIEVES
 

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After inquiring with my insurance company about the need to have a working alarm, I was informed it made no difference to my insurance premium. More trouble than they are worth so I ditched it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I fcukin hate Italian bikes.... Alarm off the MV, the starter turns, the pc3 lights up, the fuel pump primes but still no ignition ( spark ) or indicators. Just replaced the stator and coils on my Aprilia and now the fuel tank has expanded by 20mm and won't fit, and the Laverda has sensor issues.
I still want a T3 California or Benelli 2c electronica. I must suffer from learning difficulties.
 

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laughed my bits off when i read your opinion of alarms !
Chris;
It just seems that every alarm fitted to an MV screws the bike's electrics up......
I just don't need any more electronic bullshit in my life

So a few years ago I'm at my welding supply store, looking a a new Lincoln 375 Amp TIG machine with all the electronics
The counter man looks around to see if anyone is listening and says "Noel, is there something wrong with your old 300/300?"
"No"
"Then get away from that electronic POS.....if you get one that lasts 6 weeks to 6 months, you PROBABLY got a good one"

My 300/300 has been running for 43 years......failed parts? one $0.05 O-ring in the water solenoid
I just discovered on YouTube that 2% thoriated tungsten won't weld aluminum??????
News to me.......its the only tungsten I use >:)>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry to revive this thread but progress has been slow.
I have removed the alarm but it's made no difference, so I removed the tank and air box to check the plugs. I decided to put a little spray of cold start down the throttle bodies and pushed the starter button and it fired instantly.
I then looked to see if there was any spray from the injectors and there is nothing. I disconnected the quick release fuel line at the no4 cylinder end and turned the ignition on expecting to see a gush of fuel and there was nothing. Do the quick release fittings incorporate a valve so there is no fuel leakage when they are disconnected? Do I need to remove the fuel pump and inspect it.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Do the quick release fittings incorporate a valve so there is no fuel leakage when they are disconnected? Do I need to remove the fuel pump and inspect it.
Thanks in advance.
Yes...they do !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi and thanks to all that helped.
I replaced the fuel lines and fuel filter put it back together and it fired up straight away.
In my defense for thinking it was electrical was the indicators didn't work (new relay) the brake light didn't work (sticky front switch and broken rear switch) and two blown fuses.
Now to fit the replacement radiators and jetprime water pump.
Thanks again for the help.
 
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