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Discussion Starter #1
Well what you know, I had posted a thread sometimes ago 3-4 weeks or so ago about my f4 running on 3 cylinders and I start reading about all this sputtering threads.

I had that problem but worded as running in 3 cylinders because it was the same effect with my 4cylinder car that has one bad spark plug wire.

I guess sputtering is the right word.

The first time it happened after filling up the tank and not riding it for a good while 3-4+ weeks, and when I was getting out of the gas station it was fine for a mile or so and them started and rode it shifting down/up reving it to see if it would clear if was water but it did for a couple miles and suddenly it was normal, twist the throttle and everything is fine until a few miles later.
It dies on me as I am rolling downhill and I push the button and fires right up, sputters but it goes.

I get to my destination and it is fine, turn it off and after about 1hr later, I get on it turn it on and it sounds fine, ride home and everything is just fine.Park it.

Few days pass I start the bike, and warm it up, get on it go for a ride and all is fine not a single problem, 60 miles ride.

Another day take the bike out fire it up no problem and ride it not problem.

Yesterday I take it out and not long it start to sputter and it sputters and for a couple miles and then it is fine, I ride more and it happens again, I ride it it comes intermittently and on the last leg home it was fine. 40 miles ride. Staying close to home in case.
I've got just over 11k miles on it.
Anyone had the same type of experience?????????:confused:
 

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I've had a similar experience. I changed gas stations, thinking that I may have gotten bad gas. I bought a fuel additive to help take out any water and make everything combustible. Nothing worked. I found myself revving the bike to get it off the line and I had to row through the gearbox to keep it from dying. Not fun.
 

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You can try fitting Iridium spark plugs,they help with the stalling side of your problem.When you first start the bike is it running rich?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
You can try fitting Iridium spark plugs,they help with the stalling side of your problem.When you first start the bike is it running rich?
How do I know if it is running rich?
It sounds like always did and I don't have a clue!

I took the tank and the air box off and the air filter looks pretty dirty, it was supposed to have changed last time 7500 service, and I am going to change the fuel filter next, as soon as I get my hands on one, and will try to get the iridium plugs- can I get those in the regular auto shop?
 

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Your bike has an evaporative emissions canister in the tank...If all this started after a fill up it is possible you overfilled the tank and got raw gas into the canister. The carbon in the canister is breaking apart and restricting the fuel tank ventilation, or dumping high levels of fumes or even raw gas into the intake tract.

At any rate, yank that evap system out of the tank while you have it off to change the plugs. Search for the threads with instructions and diagrams....The Knurl's hose routing method is the best option.

And get a new EBS relay.....that is the "Engine Breaking System" relay that kicks in to help with back torque during decel downshifts (think slipper clutch).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your bike has an evaporative emissions canister in the tank...If all this started after a fill up it is possible you overfilled the tank and got raw gas into the canister. The carbon in the canister is breaking apart and restricting the fuel tank ventilation, or dumping high levels of fumes or even raw gas into the intake tract.

At any rate, yank that evap system out of the tank while you have it off to change the plugs. Search for the threads with instructions and diagrams....The Knurl's hose routing method is the best option.

And get a new EBS relay.....that is the "Engine Breaking System" relay that kicks in to help with back torque during decel downshifts (think slipper clutch).
Thanks for the info I'll follow your instructions and will look for this carbon canister, and will find info for the (Knurl's hose routing method).

Again, I ain't a mechanic and know crap about engines so I will look up for these things, and will come back for more help.
I'll probably start this next week when I have a little more time.
 

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You can try fitting Iridium spark plugs,they help with the stalling side of your problem.When you first start the bike is it running rich?
I just did this on mine and it helps a little bit. While on my previous 1000it was solved with these plugs. From what I could see on the dyno is that the sputtering is not because it is rich, but because it was lean on low revs. Above 5000 is was perfect. I will try the MV Corse ECU, that should solve the sputtering. Unless the technical people over say that it makes no sense...
 

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foguete4.....not sure where Pacific Grove is, but Noel the Knurl lives in So Cal (Redondo Beach area??) and would probably be happy to help you with the cannister. He is very generous with his time and knowledge.
 

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Ed;
foguete4 is 5+ hours away.....one way:f4:

foguete4;
you can do all of this yourself.....

you will need;
to download the parts manual and go to page K02
some Clic-R Pliers on Ebay ~$17 + shipping
a WIX #33012 fuel filter (bet they didn't change it at the 7,500mi service)
1 foot of SAE J30R10 SUBMERSIBLE fuel line you may need screw type hose clamps depending on the hose OD
4 vacuum caps
a 1/4" fuel line wye
a package of JB Weld Kwik
a box with a blanket in it to hold your tank upside down
put an Allen wrench in the goofy fitting page K02 item #8.....
DO NOT turn the Allen wrench turn the nut.....
now turn the tank over and let it drain

you want to save all the lines, you will be reusing some of them

remove the fuel pump......use 3, 6mm screws to pull it out

disconnect the lines with the Clic-R pliers

what you want to do is remove the cannister and wye the fuel cap lines together and to the goofy fitting

then you need to plug the 1-2 now unused ports on the fuel pump plate with JB Weld

use some of the JB Weld to fill the notches in the tank flange that eat the big O-rings next to the studs.....sand it smooth

you have any questions call me

I had a complete version of this but a fucking browser update ate ~3,000 technical bookmarks

fuck programming assholes :jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff:
and they blamed me:wtf:

foguete4......
you have any questions.....just call me
 

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GUYs.. Guysssss guys guys.. IT's Called A Slipper Clutch Relay PN/8000A3729. The Part Is $$$151.72 and Takes 30 Sec To Replace. TRUST THEM THAT KNOW.. It IS NOT AN EBS.... EBS is What IT AccompliShes. (i searched for hours looking for an EBS sensor. ) This Damn Part MAkes The Bike think Its OUT OF gAS, Running On 3 PlugS.. MAkes iT Seem LikE A VapoRlOck.. Makes The BIKE acT Like It needS VAlves ANd ALL SORTS OF SCARY THINGS. Buy it and put it on the left frame rail where the fairing opens up so you can see it every single day and curse the fraGeee'Le little bugger whenever you kick up the stand

I bet you money more F4's were sold due to that little bug filled nasty heat sensitive part than actually having real problems.

I STAB AT THEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SLIIIIPPPERRRRRR CCCCLLLUUUUTTTCCHHHHH REEEEELLLLLLAAAYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am waiting for parts and when it gets here I will start from the replaceable parts first and then to the charcoal canister deal (after a good bottle of rum-for courage).

My question is why now? The bike has been running flawless for these many years and suddenly this!:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Spark Plug wrench size

Does anyone know what size of socket for the spark plug on a MV F4 2005?
I tried every size that I have and none is right, my regular 5/8 does not fit into the deep hole and all my deep sockets (craftsman) that fits inside does not match the thread size?

What am I doing wrong?
Or does MV has its own socket?:mad:
 

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plug socket?

Wei;
it's a 5/8" socket, the rubber gaskets are in the way, you have to remove the valve cover and trim them back out of the way with a narrow snap blade knife

while you have the valve cover off, clean the seal and use a paper thin coat of high temp RTV silicone on both sides of the gasket ALL the way around NOT just at the cam bores like the book says

call me:drummer:
 

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My question is why now? The bike has been running flawless for these many years and suddenly this!:confused:

Well, if it is the canister, that makes sense. The can eventually gets over contaminated by occasional over fills. And the charcoal eventually simply breaks down.
Cars have warnings not to "top off" the tank after the pump auto-stop. This is why.

Dump the can! :eek:nthecan:
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Tell you the truth, i am not sure if this is the problem for my bike to run so lousy.

After removing the air filter from the box it was pretty dirty and it had a light trace of greenish oil underneath the filter unit when i removed the tape off.

What does dealer do in this case? Do they take it off and reroute the hoses or they just replace the charcoal canister?

I am puzzled because if the motorbike comes with it, it should not create a problem!
 
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