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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Hey all, new member here so some quick background. I found a 2005 B4 Brutale 750 that I was able to pick up for $3,300 last week. Got it home and just did a quick ride and it went really good. Got up the next day and had some oil leaks, I still need to take care of those. I have two gaskets that need to be replaced, so if anyone can let me know a good site to get,them from that would be awesome. So I top,off the oil, and take it out for its maiden voyage with my brother on his bike. We are only gone for about 15 minutes and then the problem with the transmission started. I took off from a stop in 1st, went to shift into 2nd, and it wouldn't go. It would go into neutral, but 2nd was not happening. The gear lever would not go up. I had to downshift and ride home in 1st, which caused the bike to run hot being stuck in that gear. Everytime I go to ride this happens. The bike will go back to normal after about a 10 minute cool down and it works fine again, for a little bit. Does anyone happen to know what might be going on with it? I have no ideas. I also contacted my local repair shop about it, but they have next to no experience with MV so they said they couldn't do anything with it. Other than these issues, I absolutely love this bike and plan on having it for a long time...if I can get the transmission working properly.
 

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We might need a bit more data to help you out TG.

Does the bike shift gears up when it's not running, clutch in rolling the rear wheel ?
Does it only happen when the bike is hot ?
Has his just occurred or does it return to normal service when the bike is cold?
Has anyone removed the front sprocket cover recently?

How many km's has the bike done?
Where are you on the planet?

...and on a different but vital vein, please confirm you have the rear hub checked by someone in the know and serviced? (removed, cleaned and re-greased)

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Below are the answers to the questions.

Does the bike shift gears up when it's not running, clutch in rolling the rear wheel ? Yes, but it has to cool cool down but if it ia cold, it has no issue.

Does it only happen when the bike is hot ? Yes, if the engine is cold it will go into any gear without issue.


Has his just occurred or does it return to normal service when the bike is cold? I've only had the bike for a total of 4 days. I have asked the previous owner, he said he never had a problem. The title is clean, and from 2014 to the time I bought it, it has only been driven about 2,000 miles. It has 25,300 miles on it currently. I do not think this bike was abused, it came with the manual with all the little sheets about adjusting the suspension, accessing the battery, the CD Rom that was sold with it, a battery tender, wheel lock and cover. The oil is clean as well.

Has anyone removed the front sprocket cover recently? To my knowledge, no it has not been removed.

How many km's has the bike done?
The bike has 25,300 miles on it.

Where are you on the planet? I am in Bakersfield, California...aka, hell.

...and on a different but vital vein, please confirm you have the rear hub checked by someone in the know and serviced? (removed, cleaned and re-greased) I have not had this done, but I will have it looked at. Thank you for the advise.

I hope that answers your queations, if there is anything else you need me to provide, please ask. Thank you for the help.
 

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Time to remove the gear selector cover and check the springs, the main shift and the small pawl springs. If the main spring was broken then it wouldn't return to normal when it cooled, it'd be stuck in whatever gear it was in when the spring broke. So I'm betting on the smaller pawl springs in there. Other than this I can only think selector or something else in the box that's seizing when hot. Seems strange when the previous owner had no problems but when shit goes wrong it goes wrong.

Manuals are here for downloading: - Forums/Tech tips and resources for ALL models. Also there are links to how to do the job. There is an especially good one by Eddiepro with full pics.

If you have any mechanical skill it's pretty easy, just time consuming. Need to drain oil and coolant. Parts can be had from the marketplace here but I usually use StarTwin Trading in Belgium.

Cheers

Deano
 

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Since it is only when hot I would think your clutch needs a good fluid flush and thorough bleeding!! Start with that. And flush and bleed your brakes, too. I'll bet the hydraulic fluids are very old and nasty.

Where are you ???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the help guys. Ill have my work cut out for me this next weekend. Also, I'm in Bakersfield, California.
 

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I'm in Bakersfield, California.
Add that to your profile !

Seriously, I would do the fluid flush and bleed before anything else. With the age of the bike (and the general maintenance habits of Americans in my experience) I believe that could be your only problem.

Quality engine oil helps with smoother shifts, but the MV transmissions are not known to have problems. Clutch hydraulics, on the other hand, can cause shifting problems.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info. I didn't see a place to add my location in the profile settings. I'm doing this all from my phone, so maybe it is different on a computer.
 

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User CP is the place to edit profile and add signature etc
 

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tallguyjc;
Get some Clic-R pliers off eBay ~$12 last time I looked
Do a service on all fluids and both filters
The best oil filter is a Purolator PL-14612 available at Pep Boys in Bakersfield
The wrench for the filter (late blue ones) Hopkins 10605 Super Graphite Filter Wrench #5
The fuel filter is a WIX #33012 available at O'Reilly in Bakersfield
While inside the tank replace the 5/16" SAE J 30 R 10 submersible fuel line, it's sold in a 1 foot piece, you won't need all of it
One of your oil leaks is probably the left rear of the pan gasket.....remove the side stand and correctly torque the pan bolts
The other ones are either or both the valve cover or the F4 cover.....buy some Permatex Form-a-Gasket
Loosen the pinch bolts on the swing arm and retorque them to 15lbft/20Nm when adjusting the chain, ignore the sticker
in fact remove the POS

I've been building manual transmissions for a long time........It's not heat related.....I'm with Deano, the pawl spring or shit inside the ratchet drum.....simple to check, and if it's broken cheap to fix

You have questions? Call me.....text me 1st, my phone doesn't allow unknowns:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow, that's a ton of great info, down to who stocks what in my city. That is some amazing help.
 

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Noel is an amazing guy!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got the new rear tire on yesterday, went with a Pirelli Angel ST. Hope to get the front done this next weekend. I also adjusted the chain as Noel said, it was surprising very easy comapred to anything else I've ever adjusted. My friends with bike were all amazed at how effortless it is comapred to their bikes. Still have the leaks, had to top off the oil twice. I'll be ordering gaskets next weekend too. And been taking off in second gear to avoid being stuck in 1st and neutral. I'll take the gear box apart when I do the gaskets. Something new with the gear box is has started to make a clicking sound when it gets stuck from 1st and getting "caught" in neutral. The sound only happens when the bike is moving, as you slow down or stop, so does the noise. Wish I had all the money I need to put into this bike, it's going to be a slowish project, but one I love. I've put 400 miles on it in the past week. Everyone always asks what it is, and when you tell them, they have no idea about MV Agusta. Dispute these small issues so far, I absolutely love this bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ignore the spelling errors, this is done from my phone and I've got big hands for a small screen. Thanks again to everyone for all the help, this forum has been amazing so far.
 

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Don't put off transmission inspection.....riding it with continued problems will end up damaging more stuff inside.
 

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Transmission problem?

Don't put off transmission inspection.....riding it with continued problems will end up damaging more stuff inside.
NOTHING WILL PUT YOU ON YOUR ASS FASTER THAN A TRANSMISSION FAILURE!!!!
Who cares about silly parts vs your ass?

My friend Bazza, listen to what happens when he pulls the clutch

Here's the video

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ill get it knocked out as soon as I can. I'm not abale to park it until then as it is my only mode of transportation. It will be done fairly quickly though.
 

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tallguyjc:
When you go to the auto parts store get a gallon of anti-freeze, I use good old Prestone
Get the filters and the submersible hose....
Take all that shit home......then go to a market and get a gallon of distilled water

Drain the coolant, by removing a water pump hose.....
Have the bike in neutral
Remove the water pump.....2 bolts
Remove the shift lever
Remove the shift mechanism cover....2 bolts
Leave the lever mechanism in the motor, slip the lever back on the shaft......
Work the lever shaft clockwise (up shifting and back down into neutral)
Watch the ratchet pawls, to see if they move equally
They're at 2 and 7 o'clock in the 2nd picture
If not remove the metal cover.... 2 bolts

Look for broken spring pieces

pictures
 

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What Noel said. But give the shift mechanism cover screws a belt with a drift before you try to undo them with a torx bit (from memory). They can be tight little fuckers.

Cheers

Deano
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'll hopefully get to do that this weekend. My brother is the mechanical guy in the family, I gotta see if he is available. He has all the tools to do pretty much anything that needs to be done. The oil pan kick stand leaks is also on my radar for this weekend. I saw in another post Noel said to use RTV gasket maker and forgo the actual gasket. From what I've seen, he is a waking MV bible. Lol. Is there a particular one I should get for better results? I was looking at the Permatex one that was a black tube, the actual name slips my mind at the moment.
 
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