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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 F4S with 10k miles on it. Bought it new in 2001, sold it in 2009, then bought it back in August 2015. Anyway, the only valve adjustments were done right after break in. It also still has its original chain and sprockets, and other than fluid changes, nothing else done to it.

Since it's 16 years old, and not ridden much, I'm wondering if there is anything I need to do before the peak riding season. Should I replace the chain and sprockets? At what point do I need to grease or replace the rear hub? Anything else I might not be thinking of?

Brad
 

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I would do the maintenance on the hub. Chain and sprockets would depend on wear. Yes fluids need to be changed if not done in the last year. Also a valve adjustment could be in order. If doing the valves you could change the plugs at the same time. Would be easy to do at the time. Other safety things to consider would be brake pads and the brake fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's about what I thought. I'll probably get the upgraded hub (Mitch's hub), so I might as well replace the sprockets, chain, and cush drive set. And I've changed the fluids (oil, brakes, and coolant) several times in the past, so I've got that covered. Brake pads were replaced at about 2500 miles, so they may still be ok.

But the valve check... I've done it once (at around 6000 miles), but don't trust my valve check abilities, and definitely not up to adjusting them if they are out of specs. That will be for the dealer to take care of. :(

Just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something serious. Geez, it's hard to believe it's 16 years old!
 

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I would not worry about the valves until at least 15,000 miles. Shim under bucket valves do not need adjustment very often. If they were checked and OK at the first service they are more than likely OK now.
Wheel / hub bearings...pop in some iridium plugs....brake fluid, coolant...tires. Go ride.

Chain and sprockets may be just fine. Inspect sprocket teeth for any wear and chain for tight spots as you roll the rear wheel. Modern 0-ring chains can go many miles with out needing replacement as long as they are maintained (lube for o-ring seal and rust prevention, proper tension maintained).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Don't forget to double check all the rubber hoses, and fuel lines, both inside and outside the tank.
Way back around 2003, I replaced the fuel line connectors with metal ones, but I can't remember what the fuel lines were made out of. Are they plastic or rubber? Yeah, I could lift the tank and check myself, but... I'm a bit lazy :)

If they are made out of rubber, what is the realistic life expectancy on them? If they need replacing, is standard OEM hoses good enough, or is there a better alternative?

Thanks to everyone for all the answers and help!
 

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don't replace things that aren't worn out......
like chain and sprockets and cush drive
Do replace the lines inside the tank and the fuel filter
Adjust the chain and torque the pinch bolts to 15lbft/20Nm NO MORE!
You notice I didn't mention the valves?

put 30,000mi on my Brutale, valve cover hasn't been off while I owned it
EBC HH pads have lots left....... original chain is fine too

Have fun!

:grin2:
 

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The plastic quick release for the fuel line on the bottom of the tank should be replaced with a metal one. They almost all get brittle and leak and it`s in a really bad place to be leaking fuel. Mine did on the same year bike, it`s a common problem. Since you`ll be taking the tank off to adjust valves do it then.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've never replaced a fuel line before, so... Do I just buy something like 2 feet of hose (the right size of course) at an auto parts store, or do I need order the OEM hoses?
 

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@TheSlacker: There is specific hose that lives in the fuel tank. It is gates J30R10 spec submersible hose in 5/16 size. The other lines are single wall nitrile hose.

If you want to pm me an address and paypal $25.00 to me, I'll send you the correct hoses for inside the tank.
 

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Oh, and you should replace your tires if they are old rubber.
 

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TheSlacker:
You will need to buy 1 foot of the J30R10 submersible FI hose .......
Depending on how you plumb the vent and drain lines the amount of 5/16" Nitrile line will vary

My advice? just get it from Chuck

:wink2:
 
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