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Discussion Starter #1
I am reaching out for some advice. I am about at my wits end trying to get the valve cover off. The issue I am having is with the radiator expansion tank hose preventing me from sliding the cover off/out. The shop manual says:

"...it is advisable to remove the rubber engine coolant filling tube situated on the left side of the motorcycle."

My question is, has anyone been able to remove their valve cover without doing this? As you can see in the pictures the back LH side of the cover is interfering with this hose. I would prefer not to remove the clamps on the hose since I will in turn need to drain my coolant.

If I do go the route of removing the coolant hose, are the clamps and the tool to clamp them readily available at any hardware store?

I am contemplating taking it to the dealer at this point to finish the job. I figure since I have it 85% of the way there the total cost of labor should be reduced from your typical $600-$1000 valve job.




 

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I took off the ignition barrel and undid the expansion tank, leaving the hoses on. The 2 long barrel bolts are really tight and have loctite on them. This gave me enough movement to get the rocker cover out. I actually had the most trouble with the wiring loom on the right hand side.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I actually did all of that as well. However, it doesn't look like I can get the cover to slide out without pulling the expansion tank and the bottom hose connected to it all the way out.

I had the cover cleared by the wire loom, just couldn't get it out with the coolant hose on the left side.
 

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I'm with Eddy out the back......on 1st gen you remove the TBs and there is enough

room, from your pictures looks like the intake hoses might need to be removed


:popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input guys. I finally had success and got the cover off. I had to find the g-spot... err I mean just the right spot for the radiator hose. I had to push it to the far LH side in order to get the clearance I needed.

Ed I was only able to pull the LH rubbers off. The right hand one has one bolt that is covered by the wire harness
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good news: I removed the cover and checked my clearance.
Bad news: The clearances are all over the place and a few exhaust valves are about .1mm on the tight side.:banghead:

Now I need to figure out whether I want to adjust them myself or take it to a dealer.
 

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You have got this far, the hardest part is the very tight and hard to access bolts that are on the camshaft saddles.
You must use good tools and have a good purchase on the Allen heads to successfully undo them.

Once this is done, the rest is a picnic in the park if you follow the procedure in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I decided I'm going to do the valve adjustment myself. I plan on pulling the radiator off and pivoting the frame up out of the way. I've read too many stories about people struggling to remove the cam carrier bolts by not giving themselves the extra room.

I need to pull the forks off for seal replacements anyway. I might as well remove those while I have the bike propped up for this! I need to teach my wife how do to all of this so she can knock it out while i'm at work.
 

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Smoker;

Get a good impact screwdriver and use it on the cam bearing block bolts......

I use a SnapOn PIT -120 worked great for the last 41 years



:popcorn:
 

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He's serious......




I have a very twisted sense of humor.:smoking:
 

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Are you serious or do you just have a twisted sense of humour?
Jon.......taught a girlfriend to TIG weld.......in half an hour and was doing a good job on

aluminum.....

my friend Tony, wanted to learn it.......airline Capt......totally incapable of doing it......

I mean to the point of being silly


:popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I tried teaching the wife but it didn't go as planned. I dodged a bullet with the cam block bolts. They came right out with no effort.

I just need to source the appropriate size shims to finish the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Assembly

I'm going to ask what is probably a foolish question but I want to get some feedback before I proceed. When I removed my camshafts the timing wheel and crank were in the position where piston no. 4 was at TDC. You can see where the timing chain marks are in the picture below just before removal:



The manual shows that I need to install the camshaft when piston no. 1 is at TDC. In other words, the two reference lines on the gears should be facing outward and level with the plane of the block:



My question is, can I just rotate the timing wheel 360 degrees to make piston no. 1 TDC, then install my camshafts with the reference notches on the outside as shown in the shop manual photo?

I would need to take care that the wire holding the chain up allows the chain to turn as I do this.
 

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Some engine builders will chime in here...I hope Noel does, because I'd like to learn a bit, too...what I believe is this: If you treat it like a new engine assembly and put number one at TDC (it doesn't care if it's the compression or exhaust stroke) then rotate your timing marks to outside and even with the case, then install the cams, it should all work as designed.

I would ask for confirmation from someone who does this alot.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Some engine builders will chime in here...I hope Noel does, because I'd like to learn a bit, too...what I believe is this: If you treat it like a new engine assembly and put number one at TDC (it doesn't care if it's the compression or exhaust stroke) then rotate your timing marks to outside and even with the case, then install the cams, it should all work as designed.

I would ask for confirmation from someone who does this alot.
That's exactly what my understanding is as well. However, this is my first valve adjustment so I would hate to make a mistake that costs me a few broken valves. I'll ask around at work in the engine design/powertrain department as well.
 

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Mechanically it will work..... electronically I'm not so sure

With a 1.6M ECU it only knows where TDC is (phonic wheel) and it batch fires ignition

and injectors

With the 5SM ECU (the later motors) and the Eldor have cam triggers too, so the ECU

knows where the crank AND cams are and fires individually

Now if start with the crank 360° off does the ECU remember? I don't know

Does it restart from square one each time? I don't know, depends on how 'smart' the

ECU is, the Sieman's ECU on my '04 Aprilia resets TPS every time you turn the key on

Me? I'd I'd go to TDC and set the cams correctly, pointing to the front and rear

You can't be wrong ...... I'd also put the CCT back in to rotate the crank


:popcorn:
 

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The short answer is...Yes. It is just as if you were assembling the engine on the bench after a rebuild.

The 5SM bikes use a cam position sensor, so as long as #1 is at TDC you install the cams and everything works.
The Eldor ECM phasing system I am not sure of, but would bet it follows almost all current modern bikes and uses the intake tract pressure pulse of #1 to determine cam position.
 
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