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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Just taken the front wheel out of my bike for the first time and the bearings feel quite knotchy to say the least , can anyone advise on any particular brand i should be replacing with ?

Any tips for removal of the old ones would also be appreciated , i asume the size i require will be on the bearing .

Not very impressed with the quality at all - took the front out of my 04 Bonnie also this afternoon and the bearings felt brand new .


Any advice welcome .

Thanks

Steve
 

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Que, The Knurl......
 

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Either carefully knock them out with a long drift punch, working around the perimeter or use a proper bearing puller.
Alternatively, heat can be used to expand the wheel away from the bearing so it "falls" out.

Bearing size and type should be on the outer race. You can also measure the ID -OD and width and go on a search.

Spend some serious money and get ceramic bearings.....then you can brag about them, even if you don't realize any street use benefits..

But The Knurl will have better information on bearing grades and other R&R methods.
 

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Original bearings are imprinted with 'made in France' they were crap. 8000km iirc. Replaced with generic, probably Chinese. Up to 40,000 km now with no further issues. Go figure.
It is a lot easier if a proper bearing puller is used to remove them.
 

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?

MV front wheel bearings;
they are 6907-2RS bearings, 35mm x 55mm x 10mm

Steve;
I've got them here on my table, where are you on the blue orb?

PM me :popcorn:

Ed;
I wouldn't use heat......probably ruin the paint on the wheel

Jon;
you have the best answer.....but I can't afford a SnapOn internal bearing puller set......so its the long brass punch way
 

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The front bearings on my 1078 felt notchy at a low mileage,and a further check I discovered it was the centre spacer being too long putting too much load on the bearings.Slight machine off the spacer and all was fine.The bearings were perfect,the load by the spacer was giving a false indication that the bearings were notchy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
MV front wheel bearings;
they are 6907-2RS bearings, 35mm x 55mm x 10mm

Steve;
I've got them here on my table, where are you on the blue orb?

PM me :popcorn:

Ed;
I wouldn't use heat......probably ruin the paint on the wheel

Jon;
you have the best answer.....but I can't afford a SnapOn internal bearing puller set......so its the long brass punch way

Hi Noel

I'm just round the corner .......in the UK .

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The front bearings on my 1078 felt notchy at a low mileage,and a further check I discovered it was the centre spacer being too long putting too much load on the bearings.Slight machine off the spacer and all was fine.The bearings were perfect,the load by the spacer was giving a false indication that the bearings were notchy.


Are you saying that the length of the spacer is greater than the distance between the seated bearings ?

If so by how much ?

Either way i assume i will still need new bearings .
 

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Are you saying that the length of the spacer is greater than the distance between the seated bearings ?

If so by how much ?

Either way i assume i will still need new bearings .
Yes,the lengths of the spacers seem to be inconsistent,mine was 1mm too long and some are too short.Use your bearing puller to move out 1 bearing slightly and re-check the 2 bearings for smoothness,you might get a surprise and see the bearings are quite OK.Just trying to save you spending money when you don't have too.:)
 

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Wouldn't that be harsh?
Of course, you are correct.....
 

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Notchy?? Nope!

The front bearings on my 1078 felt notchy at a low mileage,and a further check I discovered it was the centre spacer being too long putting too much load on the bearings.Slight machine off the spacer and all was fine.The bearings were perfect,the load by the spacer was giving a false indication that the bearings were notchy.
My 2010RR with 8,000 miles gave me the same false impression. I had the wheel off for a tyre change and upon twisting the inner race the bearing felt a bit notchy. The bearings are SFK brand, which would be my first choice for a vendor for a replacement. Knowing that when in service, the bearings are pressed snuggly against the inner spacer, by tightening the axle nut, I turned up two spacers and torqued the front axle with the wheel on the work bench. Now with side forces as applied to the bearings, like when installed on the bike, the axle would rotate smoothly.

This "test" is easily replicated by refitting your front wheel to the forks, omitting the brakes and fully tightening the front axle. Spin the front wheel and you may find as I did, the wheel is quiet, free spinning, and without any indication of being defective.

You may wish to further check the bearing before a hasty rejection.

Ciao,
Dick
 

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spacer QC?

having the spacer too long (a small amount) is NOT a problem.....the spacer acts on the inner races when compressed by the axle and nut

having the spacer too short IS a problem because it side loads the radial bearings, if the spacer is way too short the beatings won't last long.....

Brembo QC is rather lacking to say the least:wtf::wtf::wtf:
 

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It is common practice to have one side of the wheel the bearing seat, this side establishes the bearing's relation to wheel center. The other side bearing is pressed in until it meets the center spacer, not until it seats in the wheel bearing bore. This establishes the overall width of the bearing spacing within the wheel.
You should not be reducing the length of the spacer. Likewise you should not be pressing the second bearing in until the outer race reaches bottom, only until the center race reaches the spacer.
Noel knows what he is saying.
Most shop manuals will tell you which side to press in first to establish the center line if essential.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My 2010RR with 8,000 miles gave me the same false impression. I had the wheel off for a tyre change and upon twisting the inner race the bearing felt a bit notchy. The bearings are SFK brand, which would be my first choice for a vendor for a replacement. Knowing that when in service, the bearings are pressed snuggly against the inner spacer, by tightening the axle nut, I turned up two spacers and torqued the front axle with the wheel on the work bench. Now with side forces as applied to the bearings, like when installed on the bike, the axle would rotate smoothly.

This "test" is easily replicated by refitting your front wheel to the forks, omitting the brakes and fully tightening the front axle. Spin the front wheel and you may find as I did, the wheel is quiet, free spinning, and without any indication of being defective.

You may wish to further check the bearing before a hasty rejection.

Ciao,
Dick


Hi Dick

I have just done this and as you say , with the axle tightened the wheel runs perfect with very little effort to spin ,not as you would expect having felt the bearing, as this is how it spins when in use as opposed to in my hand i'm now tempted to leave it alone .

Thanks

Steve
 

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Good to see your bearings are OK Steve.I have seen a lot of comments where members say their bearings are notchy and go ahead and replace them,whereas most of the bearings are probably quite alright.It pays to check first.
 

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sorry folks, if you've been riding with "notchy bearing" you have already compromised the life of the bearings

you have Brinelled them from side load

you need to realize that the 6907-2RS bearing is an "extremely light series" bearing too

Brembo has serious QC issues......what, they can't machine a spacer or wheel on modern machinery on a critical dimension to 0.001 or less?

I can on my worn out POS lathe:naughty:

change the bearings and fix the spacer or problem won't go away

and yes, I had to machine a whole van full of Egli Mg wheels because they had the wrong chain line dimension
 

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lmfao

sorry folks, if you've been riding with "notchy bearing" you have already compromised the life of the bearings

you have Brinelled them from side load

you need to realize that the 6907-2RS bearing is an "extremely light series" bearing too

Brembo has serious QC issues......what, they can't machine a spacer or wheel on modern machinery on a critical dimension to 0.001 or less?

I can on my worn out POS lathe:naughty:

change the bearings and fix the spacer problem won't go away

and yes, I had to machine a whole van full of Egli Mg wheels because they had the wrong chain line dimension

Happy New Year to you to Noel.
 
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