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put my std 1000r on the dyno today to get a base reading before i start modding.we used a dynojet 250 and recorded a base figure of [email protected] AND 76ft pounds, well pleased a std 2005 r1 made 152 on the same dyno the day before. My friend for comparison put his 2005 f41000s with rg3s, cat bypass,bmc filter and power commander and it made [email protected] and 79ftpounds, but my bike only beat it above 11200 rpm below that it whipped mined at 8000rpm were mine has a big flat spot it made 26hp more and at least 10 bhp more all the way untill the very top were the r is better can't wait to fit the same bits as my friend will post dyno charts when all my parts are fitted as they are on order :conveyer:
 

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tubsy 250 said:
put my std 1000r on the dyno today to get a base reading before i start modding.we used a dynojet 250 and recorded a base figure of [email protected] AND 76ft pounds, well pleased a std 2005 r1 made 152 on the same dyno the day before. My friend for comparison put his 2005 f41000s with rg3s, cat bypass,bmc filter and power commander and it made [email protected] and 79ftpounds, but my bike only beat it above 11200 rpm below that it whipped mined at 8000rpm were mine has a big flat spot it made 26hp more and at least 10 bhp more all the way untill the very top were the r is better can't wait to fit the same bits as my friend will post dyno charts when all my parts are fitted as they are on order :conveyer:
My "R" is going on the dyno next friday with RG3, cat by-pass, and PC all taken from my 1000S, which made 160 with all these fitted at the same dyno I'm off to next week, these flat spots are pretty big to say the least, I have been filling mine by ear and laptop, it's obviously not right by dyno std's, but all the large holes around the 6000rpm have gone making it much easier to ride :drummer: :)
 

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What break-in technique...?

What break-in technique did you use? Factory suggested (easy), or (hard break-in)? Thanks!:)
 

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Why do you prefer that to the hard run-in, just curious...
 
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I think a proper break in should be done by the book as far as not exceeding the recomended max RPM as per the odometer, but on the other hand you dont want to baby it either. Just do some fast sprints up to the book manual recomended MAX RPM for break in. That should be safe for the motor yet ensuring proper seating of the rings. It should also give you the best possible MAX HP you can squeeze out of her as well. I guess you could say a balnce between the hard break in method and the baby method as long as you done Exceed MAX RPM as per the book. Oh and dont forget to vary the RPM as well by not staying at any one RPM for a prolonged duration.
And change the oil after the first 200-300 miles too.
That should do it!!!
 

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Snappo said:
What break-in technique did you use? Factory suggested (easy), or (hard break-in)? Thanks!:)
I basically broke it in by the book, trying to keep it spinning light, never loading it low down etc but using the rpm max that the book says, but at 1000miles I figure it's run in enough :)
You also need to remeber all these bikes are dyno run for max bhp and torque at the factory, plus the runing in period is as much about running you into the bike as running in the bike itself hence the gradual build up in rpm's, can you imagine how many people may get into trouble if they said run it in at a max of 5000rpm to 300 miles then do what you want? :jsm: :ahhh: :shitfan:
 

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Triple Seven said:
im still trying to figure out the need for EVERY LAST HP possible on a (non dragstrip) motorcycle.
Nope, you've missed the point, MV's run so weak in the 2000-6000rpm range so they can get through the euro whatever emission tests thet they really do run pretty piss poor std, My latest R if you slow down slowly from over 7000 rpm will get to 6000 then fall into a massive black emission hole, virtually as if you had switched the engine off.

It also accelertes out of corners all by itself as it approaches this part of the rpm range from the other direction, making it quite hard to ride smoothly, I don't remember my S being as bad as this bike is, but saying that theer were points in the PC fuel map were it needed an extra 30% more fuel, that is how bad they are, also maybe the new ecu allows them to get the bike even weaker to pass euro3 and beyond?

A dyno with lambda mapping is the ONLY way to set the PC properly, sure I can f*** about with it adding fuel where I think it is flat, and to be fair I have got rid of the massive 5000/6000 flat spot, but the only accurate way is by mapping it at all the throttle settings i.e 2% 5%, 10%, 20% etc, in my opinion it makes a massive difference, and if it comes away creamy smooth with no flatspots AND with an extra 5 bhp I ain't about to complain, it's all a side product of getting the bike to run correctly and as it should.

Here is part of my custom map for my 1000S, rpm down the LH side, Throttle position across the top, there's some big numbers there in the 20% open column, the numbers are a percentage extra above what the ecu is injecting :)


____ 00 02 05 10 20
0500 00 00 00 00 00
0750 00 00 00 00 00
1000 00 00 10 00 00
1250 00 00 10 00 00
1500 00 07 08 04 05
1750 00 07 08 11 08
2000 00 00 12 12 06
2250 15 00 05 08 11
2500 15 12 05 10 03
2750 15 12 07 13 04
3000 15 12 07 14 11
3250 15 12 10 09 21
3500 15 12 10 04 31
3750 15 12 10 12 25
4000 15 12 10 13 22
4250 15 12 10 12 18
4500 15 12 10 12 15
4750 15 12 10 12 13
5000 15 12 10 15 10

I can't get that to come out properly :confused:but you'll get the general idea of just how far out the mapping is :) :stickpoke
 

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UA_Agusta said:
Mike, did you get the bike dynoed with tunning and the mods? Any results?
Yep, I was a little dissapointed to be honest, sure it made 165 on the same dyno my "S" made 160 on, and the power between 10000 and 12000 is a lot flatter and wider than the "S" BUT, it is EXACTLY the same as my "S" from 2000rpm upwards at wide open throttle except for a dip where it loses 5bhp on what my "S" made, the 10000-12000 part is a little acedemic for road use anyway.
The real pisser is the very small throttle opening emission and now obviously ignition retarded flat spot under 5000rpm is still there, it gives the bike the feeling of a Kawasaki 500 triple power band and not a modern 1000cc four stroke.
The only option is to either buy the RG3 ecu or Ferracci do an exchange re-programmed ecu, but to be fair a superb bike is being spoilt by a shit emission programme, I am going to HAVE to sort it, tommorow I am ringing the cheif tech at 3X :rant: :nutkick: at present the mapping is not as good as a properly sorted "S" with exception of the EBS and throttle blipping on down changing issues.
Once the emission part is sorted it will be 100% and without a glitch anywhere and it WILL then be far better than the "S" and I will be :drummer: but at the moment i'm :ahhh: :bandit:
 

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To the original post, if my bike made a whopping, astounding 26 hp less 8000 rpm than another very similar bike, I would be HIGHLY pissed off. That's the meat of the powerband right there. If you do a track day, you're going to be spending a lot of time right in that area. You're hardly ever going to be using that extra 10 hp on top.

Too many dyno tuners simply take the bike, get the most top end out of it that they can, then hand the chart to their customer so he can show it to all his buddies when not riding the bike (which is often). I'm not saying that's what you do, but it could be what this tuner is going for.

The dyno should be about TUNING. TUNING is what makes the bike good, not max hp, as mikef4uk has pointed out. I would argue that any dyno tuner who leaves a 26 hp hole without explanation is not really a tuner.

Someone needs to get one of these bikes to Doug Lofgren up in Minnesota, if possible. He's the only guy who I've seen on the net who is actually doing things to understand what's happening. Maybe Brad Black too. There could be others, but maybe they just don't write what they are doing.
 

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mikef4uk said:
Yep, I was a little dissapointed to be honest, sure it made 165 on the same dyno my "S" made 160 on, and the power between 10000 and 12000 is a lot flatter and wider than the "S" BUT, it is EXACTLY the same as my "S" from 2000rpm upwards at wide open throttle except for a dip where it loses 5bhp on what my "S" made, the 10000-12000 part is a little acedemic for road use anyway.
You know what makes it worse????

If you put those lightweight wheels on the S you will probably pick up another horsepower. :laughing:

I honestly saw this coming when I read the emissions requirements for the new bikes and that is why I did not rush to buy the R. Because if you want the R to run perfectly you will have to buy the RG3, the chip "AND" add the PCIII.
 

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I may be mistaken, but don't the new RG3's come with an entirely new ecu and not just a chip? If so, then maybe running the old set-up with the old chip is the reason for only a 5 hp increase.

it made 165 on the same dyno my "S" made 160 on,
 

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Turbo329 said:
You know what makes it worse????

If you put those lightweight wheels on the S you will probably pick up another horsepower. :laughing:

I honestly saw this coming when I read the emissions requirements for the new bikes and that is why I did not rush to buy the R. Because if you want the R to run perfectly you will have to buy the RG3, the chip "AND" add the PCIII.
It definately needs the ignition sorting in the ecu, like I say there is the RG3 ecu, and Ferracci ecu exchange programme, I just need someone to tell me 100% that the above mentioned ecu's DO put the ignition timing back to where it should be, this is also the reason the bike runs so damm hot, it's OK when your moving on a bit, but any 30-50mph speed limit zones and the bikes straight into the 90's on the temp gauge, most time when I pull up alongside my mate my bike is around 12c hotter than his "S" :jsm:

Let me just again say once this "glitch" is sorted the bike will be 100%, it just pisses me right off that you need to go to these length's, the big emmision badies are planes, I've nit seen many exhaust catalysers on them
 
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