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My target is to turn it back in a f4 .... i’m Fighting with my mind... all original except for cpu & Cv or full carbon ???
F4 full carbon, anything will be good, as long as you don't try to turn it into a Ducati.
479425
 

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I’m trying to find out what is the absolute cheapest still running undamaged MV? Care to elaborate what you think a not bad price to be?
Thanks


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I paid USD 3750 for a very very early 2000 750s with 20K miles, though a Diamante silver that are apparently quite rare. Both the 750s and the liter bikes seem to change hand for more money in europe, however.

I'm curious has anyone done an inverted carbon/silver scheme before? Silver top, carbon bottom and oro wheels/whatever else i can get my hands on. This is the closest I've found:
mv_agusta_f4_750_2002_lots_of_carbon_fiber_and_modifications_custom_monoposto_1_lgw.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Nice but not in my chords....
Does anybody has done a full carbon, tuned & gold wheels plus swing arm & other parts ?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
😁hi guys here in Italy Is really hot.... one question for f4 mono radiator which is max temp to use it in safety in a traffic jam ?
 

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too much visible Carbon = Carbon overdose -- Get the carbon parts partially painted -- Since you have a 750 -- go for lighter parts overall -- lightness rather than looks . .

Radiator ---- A setup with just one standard radiator (like the very first F4's) will run VERY hot -- especially in the Italian climate -- and slow riding in town -- My SR has two rads and improved fans + pump, and it still cooks my nuts when idling at the red lights on hot summer days -- :LOL:
 
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I know that the F4 exhaust has been mounted to a B4, um, before....
In the attached pictures, you can see the major difference between the F4 (1st pic) and the B4 (3rd pic) subframe.
The mounting points are pointed out by the read arrow and the green arrow indicates where the "dogbone" hangers come through.

View attachment 479421
View attachment 479422
View attachment 479423
The exhaust on my 750 doesn’t look like that. That pic shows 4 into 2 into 1 and back into 2 ......
My pipes are a 4 into 2 design.....


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The exhaust on my 750 doesn’t look like that. That pic shows 4 into 2 into 1 and back into 2 ......
My pipes are a 4 into 2 design.....
That is true for the early bikes; but that isn't really pertinent to whether an F4 exhaust can be mounted to a B4. Getting from the header to the Pan Pipes is a matter of piping which is available from whichever front to whatever back. The rub comes in the differences between rear subframes. Mount an F4 rear subframe, get the hangers indicated, and you can hang an F4 Pan Pipe off a B4.
 

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😁hi guys here in Italy Is really hot.... one question for f4 mono radiator which is max temp to use it in safety in a traffic jam ?
The very first F4 bikes had only one radiator. There was a factory modification campaign with a kit to install the second radiator from the later model F4, due to the extreme overheating problems.

The lack of air flow due to the fairings is a big part of the heat problem. Brutale have no fairings and do fine with just a single radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The very first F4 bikes had only one radiator. There was a factory modification campaign with a kit to install the second radiator from the later model F4, due to the extreme overheating problems.

The lack of air flow due to the fairings is a big part of the heat problem. Brutale have no fairings and do fine with just a single radiator.
Big which is max heating temp of sportbike to use it in safety?.
Yesterday i’ve Seen 106’C lamping on the display... but I don’t remember max accepted value
 

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Big which is max heating temp of sportbike to use it in safety?.
Yesterday i’ve Seen 106’C lamping on the display... but I don’t remember max accepted value
The indicated temp on your dash is not the safety temp for your engine. There are two separate temperature sensors and the one for the head is the one that contributes to the ECU shutdown of the engine when a dangerous condition is reached. To my recollection that is in the neighborhood of 254 degrees fahrenheit.
 

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For most modern engines, the normal operating engine temperature is in a range of 195 to 220.

MV owner manual for the F4 reads:

The display range is 40° to 140° C (104° to 284° F):
- Below 40° C (104° F) no temperature is displayed but
three blinking lines denote a very
low temperature.
- Between 40° and 49° C (104°
and 120° F) the temperature reading
blinks to indicate a low temperature.
- Between 50° and 111° C (122°
and 232° F) the temperature reading
is fixed.
- Between 112° and 140° C (234°
and 284° F) the temperature reading
blinks to indicate a high temperature.
WARNING: If the temperature exceeds 120° C (248°
F), stop the motorcycle immediately and check the
coolant level. If the coolant level is low, carefully top
up the coolant, after you have allowed the engine to
thoroughly cool. Never attempt to remove the coolant
filler cap when the engine is hot. If the high temperature
indication is given even when the coolant level is
correct, do not resume riding and contact an authorized
service centre
 
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I would have written it like this.


WARNING: If the temperature exceeds 120° C (248°
F), stop the motorcycle immediately and AFTER the
engine has cooled, check the coolant level. If the coolant
level is low, carefully top up the coolant, after you have
allowed the engine to thoroughly cool. Never attempt to
remove the coolant filler cap when the engine is hot. If the
high temperature indication is given even when the coolant
level is correct, do not resume riding and contact an authorized
service centre
 

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Big which is max heating temp of sportbike to use it in safety?.
Yesterday i’ve Seen 106’C lamping on the display... but I don’t remember max accepted value
I fitted a manual fan switch when mine did this and it made a huge difference, switch it on before the heat builds.
Check your bellypan(fairing bottom) and the lower part of your middle panel right side, if your heat shielding is not really good your going to melt your bodywork.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I fitted a manual fan switch when mine did this and it made a huge difference, switch it on before the heat builds.
Check your bellypan(fairing bottom) and the lower part of your middle panel right side, if your heat shielding is not really good your going to melt your bodywork.
Yessss this will work... and thinking to final target to re-assembly all parts to turn it back in a f4 i’ve Thoughts to install the second small radiator kit...a used one 👍plus pump maintenance & inspection of thermostat... for me old owner has removed it... I must check
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I’ve really fallen in love with this old f4 transformed in a b4.... but I must turn it back in a real f4 a little bit tuned....
Eliminating all plastic part🤢for carbon ones; i’ll Keep gold wheels I love them.... i’m Yet purchasing original exhaust.. now I must find original “de-kat” and install them after modifications seen on the forum ... the eprom map is quiet good i must check even pignon size cause wheel is z41 and according to my memory is right ....but I don’t remember pignon size theeth...... my bike comes from tracks so it’s a little bit “pasticciata “
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Does anybody knows a good vin decoficator to check the version of my F4 ?...I was looking to find right colour of my bike before to restore it
479745
 
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