|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-03-2019 03:09 AM|
Originally Posted by Helamanv View Post
Note the wiring diagrams from MV Agusta are incomplete for the next bit, I can send an updated version made.
The wiring to the fuses and relays come from the starter relay. The big one under the rider seat. The 2 red wires are in my opinion poorly specified or at least badly routed. Mine had got very hard and had several fractures. I replaced the 2 feeds from the starter relay (4 pin connector) with 75A super flexible wire. See pic.
Note that while the wires come from the starter relay, they only use the relay for the battery feed and 40A fuse.
If you are suffering a high engine speed issue with electrical brown outs or cut outs then these could contribute or be red herrings, either way it's worth checking.
Ignore the additional (temporary) wiring in my picture I'm testing a wide band O2 system (direct to ECU)
|10-02-2019 10:25 PM|
|esq'z me||10-60 is only thick when hot... Use what is called for.|
|10-02-2019 10:17 PM|
Hi @esq'z me....
So now that the weather has started to cool off here in Michigan; I started riding the F4RR again. In the colder weather (let's say 55-65 F), I never had any heating issues or the bike stalling issues. I guess the fan kicks in really late on the bike. I will re-time the fan to see if that fixes the problem while riding in heat next year. Also, engine oil. The manufacturer and dealer suggests 10W60 which is very thick. Should I go for a different oil like 5W40 or 10W40? Any recommendations?
|07-17-2019 03:23 PM|
Hi @esq'z me... I am not certain when the shutting off happens. I would agree that it is related to heating. The problem is MV dash does not give us the temperature (it just gives us bar indication). It should not get hot as the fan should kick in. I checked the fans in the garage and they are working fine.
Thanks for the advise. I will definitely look for a higher pressure radiator cap.
|07-16-2019 10:21 AM|
You need to hook up (or have the dealer hook up) the diagnostic software and see what specific "Detected Trouble Code" is being generated. Then that fault can be addressed.
Cannot imagine a suspension fault code is causing running problems, unless it is a fail safe mode because the ECU thinks you are in danger (cutting power to keep you from crashing).
Also can't believe that is related to temperature.... unless engine heat is causing an electrical malfunction.
First things first....what is the DTC that is turning on the dash "Fault".
|07-16-2019 09:26 AM|
|Helamanv||it happens to me the same thing I leave a picture there so you can see what the error is, I walk and when I go to 8000 or 10,000 rpm the board goes off and the bike shorting and also gets very hot, like the friend I started once a year and now it's every time I run it|
|07-15-2019 12:30 PM|
@sajmani the radiator cap has to release for coolant to go into the reservoir (expansion tank). If it is not holding pressure then what you describe is exactly what happens.... Take the cap off and have it tested (or test yourself if you have the tool).
Haven't looked at the later model bikes radiator caps, but suspect it is a common design (unlike the older ones!) and you may be able to buy one rated for a higher pressure.
The coolant issue is a simple thing...your dealer has not found the root cause. I seriously doubt you have a blown head gasket.
As for your engine shutting off while riding....does this happen when engine temp goes extremely high? Just what are the conditions when it shuts off?
|07-15-2019 11:56 AM|
|Helamanv||[QUOTE=sajmani;2587051]I am having a lot of reliability issues with my motorcycle which is a 2013 MV Agusta F4RR after the service. The bike just stops in the middle of the highway due to some random issues. If we turn the ignition off and let the ECM go to sleep and start, the bike starts. The bike is so unsafe because it can never be predicted when it will stop running. (Sometimes this happens at 70mph, sometimes at 45mph). Today it gave me a Suspension ECU the sameMalfunction (Now what the heck is that!?). I have added coolant so many times in the bike to the exact volume still it will start setting the coolant temp error when the bike is hot and the back pressure is so much that it starts dripping coolant out of the bike.[/QUOTE0] i have the same problem|
|07-15-2019 10:42 AM|
Might be as simple as an air lock, the F4 isn't as easy as jap bikes to get all the air out. Almost certainly you have air in the system now. Normally if the system boils quickly it can also be a sign of air with the system.
You have the bleed on the pipe ( clutch lever side) but you also need to elevate the front wheel according to the manual. Last time I drained mine I raised the front by only about 2' and it seemed to do the trick.
|07-15-2019 10:22 AM|
|sajmani||Hi @[email protected]. This is exactly what happens. My reservoir has no coolant as the bike spits everything off if there is any. And as soon as I start the bike and let it run till the fan kicks in, the coolant in the lines get filled in the reservoir (definitely saying the engine is creating a lot of backpressure). I have checked and am totally certain that my radiator cap does not leak under pressure; maybe because the liquid has an easier pass to go ( reservoir and coolant overflow line). So head gasket is bad as per suggestion? I have never had the engine open. This sounds interesting.|
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