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ECU studio/Gabro tune reviews? Any tune reviews??

9K views 40 replies 10 participants last post by  dansoarr 
#1 ·
Has anyone gotten this tune? How is it? How does it compare to stock? Were there improvements to the TC making it more usable (based on what I've heard it's pretty crude and recommend to have turned off)?

Same goes for any other tunes. Is it a must have?
 
#2 ·
I can't talk for the F3 but I use ECUStudio on the F4, it's the same base ECU and as I understand it the control structures are the same.

The traction control seems to work ok for me. At level 1 or 3 in the rain depending if I'm road or track.

As I understand it ECUstudio uses the MV TC system, you can't change the underlying algorithms and I'm not sure I'd want to.

Clearly apart from full fuel, ignition control etc, you get control over QS and Blipper settings in each gear. Rad Fan control, engine braking, fuel cut off control, lambda sensor elimination or not, exhaust valve or not and full control of the Ride by wire & can bus data logging.

Personally I've found it to be ideal for me, I've managed to get the bike to feel like mine and to get the throttle response and control to my (personal) liking.

I've posted a few times about it, have a look through the f4 and performance forums for my name or ecustudio.
 
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#4 ·
Thanks for your reply Aaron. I’ve read some of your postings about it and appreciate your knowledge. Does the tune clean the bike up even further than the most recent MV programming?

Admittedly I’m only left with what spoiled motojournalists have to say about the bike. So that is the TC is shite and the rest of the electronics are terrible depending on which version you have.

I’m still waiting for winter to end here in Minnesota. I have a friend with a ‘14 that is going to let me try his bike at Road America in May. If I like it and when my VFR800 sells I’ll likely be jumping (unless I like the S1000RR better).
 
#5 ·
The inertial platform has improved imo with the updates and I assume that is true for the F3, these are ported over into ecustudio.

I'm very happy with it. Once the fueling and throttle is fixed, it's a very good bike.

I recently built a 2018 racebike for one of my old team mates. I prefer the MV to ride, the R1 is fast and capable but a bit cold. The R1 also cost about 1600 quid to sort the fueling ( was worst standard throttle I have ever used) quickshifter and blipper.

If you go on YouTube look for a flying lap of Cadwell Park, it's fast, twisty, you need a bike that handles and responds well to the throttle and brakes to ride with confidence. My first time there with the MV was one of oh dear what have I done? Once I sorted the control and fueling (in my case ecustudio) it felt like my favourite circuit again.
 
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#6 ·
the R1 is fast and capable but a bit cold. The R1 also cost about 1600 quid to sort the fueling ( was worst standard throttle I have ever used) quickshifter and blipper.


What else does it need outside of a reflash and maybe a pipe? Its funny how people differ on opposite sides of the pond. Over here people are foaming at the mouth about how good the R1 is.
 
#8 · (Edited)
What's your opinion on how an F3 800 would do on a track day hanging with 1000's? I gather it's a lot about the rider. My buddies all have R1's and RSV4's. I'm entertained by the idea of an S1000RR (maybe CBR1000RR) but I'm not sure that I REALLY need the power. My track bike history is a GS500, Daytona 675/Street triple, SV650, RC51 ('07 CBR600RR for this year). I was pretty quick and finally got into the fast group with the RC51. It's mass was causing me problems, its quite the handful for me. I'm 5' 7" and 29 inch inseam so a tall 480lb bike makes life "interesting".

Your list of parts seems like about what I was thinking as well. Add suspension to the list of course. It being the serious toy bike it could use the extra bling hehe.
 
#9 ·
I used to race a 750 against the 1000s back in the early 2000s. Through the stop start twisty sections it was easy to stay with them, on a straight however all things being equal I'd lose 5 or 6 bike lengths, only to make it all up through the bends.

I'd assume the F3 would be similar. If your tracks a large GP style it may be harder to stay with your mates, if the circuits are more scratching types (like the UK) then they may pull away on the straights but you will have a slight advantage through the tight sections, less weight and easier to use power.

The big thing is the weight, given what you said about the 600 I'd say go small and be comfortable. In the end it will be more fun and it's still a weapon.

If a mate on an R1 loses you on the straight, they have no bragging rights, you get the jump on them coming out of a chicane then you get the bragging rights even if they pass you in a straight line.

Oh obviously add clip-ons to your list.
 
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#10 ·
This is my experience with running my 675R versus some of the larger bikes, given rider skill does have quite a bit to do with your results also.
As mentioned above, you can exploit the larger bikes in areas where it is tighter, off camber, quicker transitions, and places where the bikes can only use so much power.

The F3 800 I feel is a very suitable compromise where you will not need all the electronic aids, to put down the power. With tire technology 140rwhp should not be overwhelming a slick, and I would say without being totally hamfisted, a supercorsa SP should be fine for MANY trackday riders, especially in the intermediate groups.

The main reason I bought my f3 800 was to have that addition 25rwhp and torque over my 675R, and maintaining the fun and enjoyment of a supersport.. Will be looking at my first track review of the bike on 28 may. will have y 675R for comparison.
 
#11 ·
The main reason I bought my f3 800 was to have that addition 25rwhp and torque over my 675R, and maintaining the fun and enjoyment of a supersport.. Will be looking at my first track review of the bike on 28 may. will have y 675R for comparison.
This is one of the reasons I would be buying as well. Like I said I'm not sure I need the extra 80 hp of a 1000. I also am buying because sexy hehe.


I'm looking forward to reading your track review! I'll be trying out a friends bike on the track next month as well.
 
#12 ·
I had 2 plans for a bike, build a 765 motor for my 675R ($6000) or buy a another bike and mod it a bit.. the F3 is a stunner, and personally like the seating position better, and the reverse rotating crank has some serious benefits from my experience. The main issue I think I will have is keeping the front wheel down in 1-3rd gear when hard on the gas. biggest complaint I have with the bike right now is the dash is more about looks than function.
 
#13 · (Edited)
It will be an adventure for me as I have never had a bike that would lift the front wheel. Or I'm just too much of a pansy to ride it hard enough. I was told my RC51 would wheelie like crazy, I never got it to...... But I prefer to think about it that my throttle control is smooth and progressive that I can keep the bike accelerating had and both wheels on the ground. O:)
 
#14 ·
It will be an adventure for me as I have never had a bike that would lift the front wheel. Or I'm just too much of a pansy to ride it hard enough. I was told my RC51 would wheelie like crazy, I never got it to...... But I prefer to think about it that my throttle control is smooth and progressive that I can keep the bike accelerating had and both wheels on the ground. O:)
I was told the same thing, yet never found the stock 490 pig able to easily lift it up... after dropping 60lbs, 1/4 turn throttle and getting her up to 135rwhp she seemed far more willing to do so, but nothing like the F3 800 with exhaust adn tune or a literbike from 2003 on.
 
#16 ·
dansoarr , could you give us a description of what the ECU studio kit contains?

Im struggling with Luca, he might be very busy at the moment and not answering all my questions in my mails.

Is his kit like a Texa where you can plug in and load maps and tune aspects like the blipper and QS? Does he provide adequate instructions? He told me he includes all the MV original maps with his kit.

Your feedback would be greatly appreciated. Im about to purchase his kit so I can activate the blipper functionality with my new EAS 2.0 QS on my F3 675.
 
#17 ·
everything you ask for is in there [except for detailed instructions at the time I bought it :D], I went the same way as you did (just on my F3 800 / 2014 with EAS 1.0 -> 2.0 (with different sensor)).
Unless you know what you are doing I'd stick to the original MV maps. They are not great (due to environmental restrictions) but every good tuner should be able to get you a decent map based on that or the race maps without exhaust valve Luca also has.

If you have questins feel free to send me a message any time
 
#18 ·
As Nephalem says it's all there.

So you get a pc interface and bike specific adapter (CAN bus). You also get a dongle (security) and a single ECU licence that allows you to program a single ECU as many times as you like.

The F4 uses a starlane sensor (strain based) as standard rather than the microsurgery based approach of the durashift sensor. The F4 maps now have separate voltage levels for at rest, shift up and shift down.

Luca has a small team (he was looking to recruit) and is working on the next developments, so you are always better sending a single email with questions laid out rather than Maire emails with individual questions.

I'll send you the helpfile by pm so you can see the step by step process for your first flash. There is a section on what to do and what not to do. The worst thing you can do is flash with a low battery voltage as you can fail to flash correctly. This is easily corrected but you may lose your licence code. There are plenty of warnings in the help file.

Cheers
 
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#19 ·
Thanks Arron and Nephalem.

Is there any way to identify the map currently installed on the ECU?

Luca mentioned the different output voltage with the sensors for rest, up and down that the ECU is programmed to. I assume the MV EAS 2.0 for the F3 is the same sensor as on the F4?

For some reason, I cant measure any voltage on my sensor. Assuming I did everything right, did anyone else have a similar issue? It's the same story with my EAS 1.0 sensor also... Multimeter Red on Blue lead and Black on engine bolt or green lead I think. Set to DC and 20V. Always shows 0V , up, down and static...

PM sent for the help files Arron. Thanks!
 
#20 ·
By convention, MV uses BLUE as ground. So, essentially you are going ground to ground. That would be ZERO vdc. I have not verified this on your wiring diagram.
 
#26 ·
Realized my mistake, I have to have the QS plugged in and the ignition on.

Multimeter cant measure the voltage without the ignition on, for some reason I thought it could. Have to get some wires into the connectors to be able to measure properly while having it plugged in.

Thanks Arron for the tip.

I found my email from Luca. its Red from multimeter on green wire of the sensor connector and black on earth (blue wire or any bolt of the engine).
 
#21 ·
If you are using a bi-directional strain gauge (quick shifter), you should have 3 wires to the sensor:

One wire with constant 5v from the ECU, a ground wire (blue?) and a wire to the ECU that will register about 2.5 V at rest and + voltage / - voltage from 2.5 when shifting up or down.

At least that's the way I think it should work....
 
#22 ·
Ok, after looking at the wiring diagram for the F3 675, the wire colors for the quick shift unit are: Pin 1 - Orange with Black, Pin 2 - Brown with Black, Pin 3 - Orange with Yellow

Pin 3 (orange with yellow) is connected to the ground bus (BLUE WIRE). This could also be wired entirely in BLUE because, well MV does that.

When pressure is exerted on the quick-shifter, Pins 2 and 3 have continuity. This grounds the sensor as realized at ECU pin E1.

From this I surmise that the quick shift action grounds ECU voltage (~ 5VDC) from Pin 2 to Pin 3.

That leaves Pin 1 as power from the ECU through the TILT SESNOR.

What year is your F3 675?
 
#23 · (Edited)
For the sake of clarity, MV use 2 very different types of sensor for the QS on the latest generation of bikes.

The F4 uses a starlane sensor which is a bi-directional strain based sensor. With the strain based system the voltage is transitory so you need an oscilloscope of good DVM / DMM to capture the signal otherwise you may miss it, keeping a constant load of the lever will not create a constant voltage output. It's a pain to setup properly and I never really got it to work well as a bi-directional sensor on the F4, although that is in part to the mounting arrangement using the standard F4 lever.

The F3 uses either a uni-directional or bi-directional sensor (durashift from Translogic), this is microswitch based and not strain based. It also includes a potential divider network so that it creates the appropriate voltages when shifting. It does not ground the signal wire or tie it to the supply voltage when activated.

With the F3 system, you should get a stable voltage of ~2.5v at rest, the activation voltages for shift up and down seem to vary a little from what I have seen. Mine is 0.5v & 4.5v, but I have seen as high as 1.25v & as low as 3.6v. Clearly it depends how MV are using the signal as to whether they are looking for a level shift, level / duration etc. I have run a durashift sensor on a standard F4, it worked once I corrected the voltages with an external voltage level shifter (to 0.5 & 4.5 incidentally).


edit: pin 3 (Orange and yellow) is the signal return to the ECU and pin 2 (brown and black) is a Ground reference

If you are using the ECUStudio software then this is configurable anyway.

hope this helps
 
#24 ·
@dansoarr: Where do you measure the voltage?

Descriptive post BTW.
 
#25 ·
@silentservice703, the easiest place is to measure at the sensor connector. Normally I make up a set of connectors with flying leads for my oscilloscope, but for a quick check, I just push in two bits of 0.65mm lock-wire and connect to that. Be careful of shorts etc though.

The attached image is just one that was on my phone from a way back (looks like random bits of copper in that image), you can see I'm in the loom side of the standard starlane sensor on the F4.
 

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#29 · (Edited)
Dansoarr is the Bill Nye of MV electronics. Pretty much single handedly gave me the courage to go for the ecu studio and translogic qs once I buy the evobike headers/cat delete pipe for my ‘13 F4. My factory starlane stupid quick shifter never worked from day one.. and the warranty replacement is sitting at the dealer - they won’t do the install with my aftermarket lightech rearsets. So I kinda feel like I’m missing out on grin inducing tech. Definitely on my must have list, ahead of a set of marchesinis.

Just out of curiosity, is there nobody else on this forum that has experiences to share??
 
#30 ·
So my ECU studio canbus (dongle) connector arrived along with a flashdisk. Havent had a chance to play with it, I did notice that there is no USB cable to connect from the dongle to my laptop... Is that a micro usb cable that connects to the dongle? I tried a samsung mico usb and it didnt look like the right fit?
 
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