Rear indicator LEDs replacement - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Rear indicator LEDs replacement

Had the usual rear indicators failure, so hastily replaced them with an aftermarket set.

I've now had a chance to open up the lights and I can see the moisture and water ingress has affected the circuitry.



I'm no electronics whizz but it looks like a straightforward task to replace the individual LEDs.

Has anyone done it and where did you source the LEDs from?

They need to be orange, and I've seen ones online like this, and wondered whether they'd work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1W-Epista...Y/272624604192

Any advice or comments welcome.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 09:42 AM
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That ebay seller was a good find. In view of the cost of oem replacements, attempting a repair is a good idea. Like many others I removed the rear assembly altogether, pulling the original wiring back to beneath the battery box, purchasing the rizoma adapter wiring kit and so on. The original placement of the turn signals received some complaints from riders behind saying they couldn't see them adequately and in view of how poorly made the originals were, my whole rear assembly is in a box on a shelf.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cripes View Post
They need to be orange, and I've seen ones online like this, and wondered whether they'd work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1W-Epista...Y/272624604192

Any advice or comments welcome.
For the price: "buy it and try it!"

I went with a different number plate carrier and after market turn signal lights (with customized ballasts.)

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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I've now ordered the LEDs and will report back on how my repair goes.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 12:25 PM
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[QUOTE=Cripes;2577595]Had the usual rear indicators failure, so hastily replaced them with an aftermarket set.

I've now had a chance to open up the lights and I can see the moisture and water ingress has affected the circuitry.

Cripes,

Thanks for responding to my rear blinker issue with your comments. May I ask: how did you get the clear lens off the black housing without breaking it?

I agree, the design seems poor. I have ridden my bike in some pretty wet weather here in the Houston, TX USA area, so likely some corrosion. But, the entire unit does work if tapped gently with finger. So, LEDs ok, there is some main connector that is loose or corroded. If I can get to it, maybe I can fix it?

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for responding to my rear blinker issue with your comments. May I ask: how did you get the clear lens off the black housing without breaking it?

I agree, the design seems poor. I have ridden my bike in some pretty wet weather here in the Houston, TX USA area, so likely some corrosion. But, the entire unit does work if tapped gently with finger. So, LEDs ok, there is some main connector that is loose or corroded. If I can get to it, maybe I can fix it?
I used a heat gun and plastic trim removal tools to lever off the casing bit by bit. Once you get something wedged in along the join you just heat the nearby section and ease it open some more. It's quite a slow, painstaking process, but just think of the potential money saved!

My cheap LEDs fit, but I was waiting on some desoldering components before giving it a try, hopefully sometime next weekend.

I'll report back then.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 08:26 PM
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Cripes,

Wow, you have patience. If it was not so hot and humid here in TEXAS, I would attempt a repair. I thought about drilling a small hole in the clear plastic lens to help prying it off. The face they likely sonic welded the plastic lens to the black plastic body just sucks. What a terrible design. Hell, blinkers fail, they all do eventually. Hopefully MV has a better design now on 2019 bikes?

But, I figure the original design/component engineering is pretty poor. So, Rage Cycle tail tidy is ordered, and my favorite Moto mechanic said YES to install.
But in the end I bet I spend $400 for the total fix ($200 for part kit, $100 for install, $100 for UBER to/from mechanic). Such is an exotic bike, and my dealer going poof. I may ask MV Agusta USA to cover the labor for the install (warranty)? But, I bet they ignore me.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 06:00 PM
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Chaps, the LEDs are glued to the substrate and need to be pryed off once the leads are desoldered. They will come off like a rocket so be careful to point the assembly away from yourself. Because they are glued I have made the assumption that this is most likely for heat dissipation and that the adhesive is thermally conductive.
I purchased the LEDs through element 13 in oz @ $5 ea and the thermal conductive adhesive @ $30! (from memory).
When desoldering it is important to remember that due to the heatsinking a higher temp setting is required of your iron, assuming you have an adjustable iron.
Standby for part numbers of the LEDs and adhesive.
And another thing, the LEDs are very sensitive to electrostatic charges so take appropriate safeguards with your new LEDs, and the cct board as they can easily be destroyed. Avoid placing them in plastic containers or bags.
When soldering the LEDs again a high temp is needed due to the adhesive so apply appropriate heatsinking to the leads to avoid damaging the LED.
You can check the LEDs in circuit with a multimeter that has a diode function. The LED will glow when forward biased.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 12:58 AM
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Just an idea for a fixed solution.. .. buy a high level plate holder and x2 rizoma indicators
Just a thought
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cutloose View Post
Chaps, the LEDs are glued to the substrate and need to be pryed off once the leads are desoldered. They will come off like a rocket so be careful to point the assembly away from yourself. Because they are glued I have made the assumption that this is most likely for heat dissipation and that the adhesive is thermally conductive.

I purchased the LEDs through element 13 in oz @ $5 ea and the thermal conductive adhesive @ $30! (from memory).

When desoldering it is important to remember that due to the heatsinking a higher temp setting is required of your iron, assuming you have an adjustable iron.

Standby for part numbers of the LEDs and adhesive.

And another thing, the LEDs are very sensitive to electrostatic charges so take appropriate safeguards with your new LEDs, and the cct board as they can easily be destroyed. Avoid placing them in plastic containers or bags.

When soldering the LEDs again a high temp is needed due to the adhesive so apply appropriate heatsinking to the leads to avoid damaging the LED.

You can check the LEDs in circuit with a multimeter that has a diode function. The LED will glow when forward biased.
Has this worked for you? Were you successful?

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