Additional lights, direct switch or triggered switch? - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Additional lights, direct switch or triggered switch?

Hi every one!

Finally get some additional led lights to mount on the TV. I'm asking myself about the way to plug them.
- direct switch fed by a fused switched +12V; and a relay to feed the power to the leds
- switch after a trigger coming from the high beam signal and relay to feed the power to the leds.

Has someone already took the high beam signal somewhere as a trigger, and where did you take it?

Thanks.

Marc,
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-18-2018, 07:59 AM
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I tried to get a dealer to hook up my Flash2Pass garage door opener at the first service. The dealer said the mechanic told him it wouldn't work with the LED headlight; I knew that wasn't true, but when I started looking to get to the back of the headlight to access the high-beam circuit, it seemed it could easily turn into a BIG JOB. I ended up putting the transmitter in the right side "glove box," mounting the switch (a boat horn button) in the lid. I'm sorry this doesn't help you, but you may have to think outside of the box on this one.

It might be easiest to access the high beam at the handlebar switch, but making it look "factory" could be difficult. I've learned the truth of the old saying, "If I fool with a thing long enough, I will break it." I had another dealer install my PIAA fog lights at the bottom of the forks and he mounted the switch that came in the kit on the left handlebar and ran power leads back to the battery. He left me enough wire that I could go to the PDM 60 circuit breaker system I mounted in the space under the tail behind a cover above the rear tire. I used a 3A value for the breaker, but the PDM 60 allows the user to set almost any value, using a laptop computer and their patch cable.

One question, LEDs take so little power, why use a relay?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-18-2018, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wonko The Sane View Post
I tried to get a dealer to hook up my Flash2Pass garage door opener at the first service. The dealer said the mechanic told him it wouldn't work with the LED headlight; I knew that wasn't true, but when I started looking to get to the back of the headlight to access the high-beam circuit, it seemed it could easily turn into a BIG JOB. I ended up putting the transmitter in the right side "glove box," mounting the switch (a boat horn button) in the lid. I'm sorry this doesn't help you, but you may have to think outside of the box on this one.

It might be easiest to access the high beam at the handlebar switch, but making it look "factory" could be difficult. I've learned the truth of the old saying, "If I fool with a thing long enough, I will break it." I had another dealer install my PIAA fog lights at the bottom of the forks and he mounted the switch that came in the kit on the left handlebar and ran power leads back to the battery. He left me enough wire that I could go to the PDM 60 circuit breaker system I mounted in the space under the tail behind a cover above the rear tire. I used a 3A value for the breaker, but the PDM 60 allows the user to set almost any value, using a laptop computer and their patch cable.

One question, LEDs take so little power, why use a relay?
2*10W is still additional power on something calculated by an italian engineer under some unknown conditions. So in short, avoid to mess out and make the things following proper rules. I have already a relayed line switched on by a trigger taken on the accessory socket. This can feed the LED and the handlebar switch in direct (assuming the switch is able to handle 2A as per specifications). But I'm not too much comfy with that yet. That is still likely what I'm going to do first. And next step would be to have a led dimmer and a relay to feed with the LED beamer with small intensity once the switch is on, and high intensity when high beam is on. Ideal would be the following:
- Handlebar switch off, DRL : LED beamers off
- handlebar switch off, low beam : LED beamers off
- Handlebar switch off, high beam : LED beamers off
- Handlebar switch on, DRL and low beam : LED beamers on low intensity
- Handlebar switch on, high beam: LED beamers on full intensity

You can't achieve this without at least a relay… Question is mainly where to take the high beam trigger? (the question I didn't respond yet by myself).

Marc,
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Last edited by MarcSilverTriple; 09-19-2018 at 12:58 AM.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcSilverTriple View Post
Question is mainly where to take the high beam trigger? (the question I didn't respond yet by myself).
After thoughts : I'm likely to use a positap in order to take the feed from the high beam wiring harness some of us upgraded in order to get low beam working simultaneously with high beam (https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/74-tu...t-upgrade.html).

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 10:20 AM
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Which wire will you tap into? Did anyone find out about this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpkin View Post
There seems to be something in the black tape other than wiring, possibly a component (diode?), it's vital not to bend this area, rather the wires between it at the male socket.
:
Good Luck!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wonko The Sane View Post
Which wire will you tap into? Did anyone find out about this:

Good Luck!
It's a diode linking high beam positive wire and low beam positive wiring. Basically, I should take the signal from before the diode (theory at this stage, as I did not removed the nose cone yet).

This is the wire presented in yellow on the schematics (not sure which color it is yet).

As well I should precise that the battery positive is represented here more simply than what it is as it is already relayed within a Fuseblock FZ-1 inserted in the battery tray. The fuse will be included the fuse box.
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Last edited by MarcSilverTriple; 09-20-2018 at 12:00 PM. Reason: Coorected the schematics as the relay polarity was wrong
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-20-2018, 05:29 AM Thread Starter
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I noticed the schema is wrong : relay connections were wrong in the first version. I've updated the schema

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Last edited by MarcSilverTriple; 09-21-2018 at 12:32 AM. Reason: schema updated
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2018, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Additional lights and electricity update

Plan to get involved is what all my friends told me when I told them I bought a MV

While some are likely to enjoy a week-end of riding, I spent my week-end working on my Turismo Veloce with the main target being to put additional lights and change the rear blinkers.

- Started by mounting a Fuzeblock FZ-1 under the battery. It includes a relay, so you can have up to 6 switched accessories. The trigger is taken from the accessory socket power line. The fuse box is under the lithium battery which is lower than the original OEM battery


All accessories are now routed from the FZ-1
- A givi power line to feed an USB power hub in the tanklock bag

- the CLS Evo automatic chain lube system
- a Voltmeter displaying the battery tension at the dashboard

- a power line to feed the additional lights


I mounted a switch on the handlebar, lighted when the additional lights are illuminated


Additional lights are Led. They consume less than 1 watt each and should be enough to complete the onboard equipment. They are fixed on the fairing (black parts near the radiator), and they are still not too intrusive in the look.


They are plugged behind the dashboard

At this stage, they are plugged behind the switch (I do not have the proper relay and a diode yet). I plan to do this later. Here is the intended connection


Then I changed the blinkers (with some difficulties, as I didn't look at the workshop manual at first, and then pinched wires. Had to unmount and remount twice after that, but now it is all set.

Marc,
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2018, 04:59 PM
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Is it necessary to change the regulator to accommodate the Lithium Ion battery? I read those batteries don't tolerate large voltage swings as well as lead-acid batteries. If I remember correctly, lead-acid batteries can tolerate 14.4V, (14.2 preferred) whereas Li-Ion prefer 13.5V...but even I don't depend on my memory. What has your research found?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wonko The Sane View Post
Is it necessary to change the regulator to accommodate the Lithium Ion battery? I read those batteries don't tolerate large voltage swings as well as lead-acid batteries. If I remember correctly, lead-acid batteries can tolerate 14.4V, (14.2 preferred) whereas Li-Ion prefer 13.5V...but even I don't depend on my memory. What has your research found?
What I found in my research is that it was ok up to 14,8V. The power output of the TV regulator is between 14,0 and 14,4V apparently. The Voltmeter is here to have an early view of regulator peaking over 14,5V, which is sign it may be required to change.

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