Brake problem - Page 2 - MVAgusta.net
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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I'll flush the system and change the pads. That's sure.

But I'm afraid something is wrong with the master cylinder. Something like the knurl mentioned, like a clog (dirt or something). Is there a way to open the master cylinder and see whats wrong? And by doing so is there anything I can F*** up ?

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 04:53 PM
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Just realised who you are lol Hi Simon....

Im Not sure about the master cylinder internals mate-

Try new pads & check the pistons at the same time

Flush the old fluid and replace with new 5.1

Take it for a steady test ride and see how it goes-

If it persists then zap us back on here- it may need a new lever / master cylinder but id seriously doubt it

Just talk to yourself and convince yourself you deserve the best and go and get new lines and a shiny pair of Brembo RCS Radial Levers
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 04:58 AM Thread Starter
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Wink

James, you realize you have just updated my bike's wishlist.

But first I have to wait for my master mechanic to give me the news on what's wrong. And then have a look at my piggy bank, to see whats left inside

So little time, so much to do. (Churchill)

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 06:08 AM
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Use Dot 4 mate, Dot 5.1 is overkill on the raod and as Joe mentioned, goes off even quicker. Changing pads have nothing to do with your problem, but while your at it take a look at them.
You can remove the M/C and dip it in brakefluid for a short time while pumping it to make sure you get any blockages out. I don't suppose you had a chance to check if it was both calipers sticking ?
My money would be on it being one of the calipers, these Nissin M/C's are pretty reliable in general, not so much the calipers though.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 07:47 AM
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Skonda,

If you need an o/e mastercylinder, I have a new unused one spare. I may also have a used one. Hopefully you can fix this without needing to change your mastercylinder though. Let me know if you need any help.

joe
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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@Donsy: When this happened to me I checked both the calipers, and in my opinion both were gripping. But I'm not 100% sure.

The facts are: On Both sides the pads were touching the disc, the pistons were in the outer position, the temperature on both sides was the same. The wheel was blocked. ----> So I assume both calipers were gripping. (But I'm not a expert mechanic)


@Joe: Thank you for your offer. As soon as I discover what caused this problem and if I'll need a new nissin master cylinder I'll contact you.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 05:34 PM
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On cause for this that I did not see, my apologies if I just missed it, is over filling the master cylinder reservoir. This happened to me once and I took each caliper one at a time and with it off the bike pulled the brake lever very slowly. I observed how the pistons moved. One moved more freely than the other. I let come out a little but not enough to fall our and cleaned it thoroughly with a tooth brush and WD40. I then pushed it back in, and then locked it in place with a small C clamp. I blocked the other four and made the opposite one come out some and cleaned it and then blocked off those two and continued this until I had cleaned all six. I cleaned off the mounting pins for the brake pads with some fine steel wool. I also removed the rattle clips so the pads would move freely back away from the rotor.

I now have better feel and the brake no longer locks. Of course I flushed the whole system at this time and made sure it was not over full.

Jim
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capo View Post
On cause for this that I did not see, my apologies if I just missed it, is over filling the master cylinder reservoir. This happened to me once and I took each caliper one at a time and with it off the bike pulled the brake lever very slowly. I observed how the pistons moved. One moved more freely than the other. I let come out a little but not enough to fall our and cleaned it thoroughly with a tooth brush and WD40. I then pushed it back in, and then locked it in place with a small C clamp. I blocked the other four and made the opposite one come out some and cleaned it and then blocked off those two and continued this until I had cleaned all six. I cleaned off the mounting pins for the brake pads with some fine steel wool. I also removed the rattle clips so the pads would move freely back away from the rotor.

I now have better feel and the brake no longer locks. Of course I flushed the whole system at this time and made sure it was not over full.

Jim
You are spot on there Jim - overfilling can cause lock-up too.

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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 10:47 PM
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Thumbs down overfilling?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donsy View Post
You are spot on there Jim - overfilling can cause lock-up too.
Donsy;
i don't think so.....with radial Brembo M/C on my Aprilia it takes ~300PSI to get the tire to squeal.....i measured it

with the rubber accordion gaskets in M/Cs you won't have any pressure, how can you create pressure as you screw the cover down?

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
Donsy;
i don't think so.....with radial Brembo M/C on my Aprilia it takes ~300PSI to get the tire to squeal.....i measured it

with the rubber accordion gaskets in M/Cs you won't have any pressure, how can you create pressure as you screw the cover down?
1. Ignore protocol
2. Push accordian ALL the way folded up and in...or forget to put in...
3. Make DAHAMN sure your pistons have been pushed to the "out" limit agaisnt the discs
4. Overflow your reservoir spilliing over theedge on a level surfac
5. Plug the vent in the reservoir cap
6. Cram the cap on

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