For all wants to know how to bleeding the rear brake

Attached Images

File Type: pdf

8645_Service Bulletin n° 189 - Rear brake bleeding procedure.pdf (656.5 KB, 842 views)

This is great! This is probably the same as for front in terms of ABS bleeding? I always thought it needed diagnostic software.

Thanks for posting, I have a F3 800 and did virtually the same procedure in the 2nd part i.e. take off the caliper and hold it bleed nipple up while the wife was operating the brake lever got a slightly firmer pedal but never strong enough to activate the ABS.

Might be worth replacing the banjo bolts on the ABS unit with ones that have bleed nipples instead of dribbling brake fluid all over the place.

Also a bit pissed off that this will only get done free within the warranty period.

Thanks for the instructions. I did almost the same last year on my front brake system. Bleeding at the ABS unit was the only solution to get rid of all air from the system. "Normal" bleeding via calipers and master cylinder simply did not remove the slight spongy feeling in the brake lever which wasn't really confidence inspiring when riding on track. It is actaully amazing why there are no bleed nipples on the ABS unit.

this is what i wanted to hear.. cause my front brake feels realy bad, although i bleeded it over 3 times now!

Sometimes there can also be a small air bubble hiding in the front brake master cylinder and it may help if you take it of the clip-on and rotate it a little so that air can only and must escape from the bleed nipple when you bleed the master cylinder. This rotation/positioning also ensures that air can easiliy escape from the master cylinder via the rubber hose into the reservoir.

great info . tapping the calipers while bleeding can free air trapped inside also

I could hear air passing through the valves in the ABS unit again when applying the rear brake and didn't want to make a mess following the MV bleeding procedure where you untighten and tighten the banjo bolts on the ABS unit several times. This is not what you would call good engineering practice as the copper washer will strain harden and get damaged and at some point may not seal anymore.

I replaced the existing banjo bolts with 4 HEL banjo bolts with bleed nipple, part number H160-31BNC with new copper washers. Thread size is M10 x 1. See picture. If others want to do the same here are some of the things I did. If you now better don't bother me, you probably do.

I removed the passenger footrest on both sides. Removed the plastic cover around the ABS unit (three screws, one at each side and one underneath). Don't forget to place a rag/cloth or something underneath in case the small screws fall down. You can move the ABS unit down a little and have just enough access to the banjo bolts (12 mm socket).

Before you unscrew a banjo bolt make sure you put some rags/cloths underneath to make sure you don't get any brake fluid on painted surface. If you do clean immediately.

The HEL banjo needs a 14 mm socket and the bleed nipple is 11 mm. It takes a bit of feel and make sure not to cross threads in the ABS unit. Make sure you can screw them in by hand and torque the banjo to 18 Nm to 20 Nm (do not apply this torque on the bleed nipple itself of course!). I did them one by one. Take out the existing banjo bolt and washers, screw in the new banjo bolt with new washers, leave the bleed nipple out, tighten it and then install the bleed nipple. Some brake fluid will leak but mainly from the line coming from the front brake reservoir.

When everything is done you you can bleed the system, starting with the ABS unit.

Bleeding will never be easy because each time you have to get acces to the ABS unit but it will be a lot easier and not so messy and time consuming with this arrangement.

I have added some picture. It all fits with clearance.............no luck, just checked it before I started.

Attached Images

        

That is a very tidy job! Nice work!

very slick!! thx for sharing