Y2000 Showa Fork Overhaul - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
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Y2000 Showa Fork Overhaul

Did a search could not find anything on this.
Over winter I'm planning a few little jobs in addition to the oil leak from the gearbox.
My job is somewhat simple to many on here.
I got my hands on a good set of OEM forks and would like to overhaul them before putting them on the bike. I have overhauled mountain bike suspended forks before but not motorcycle forks. I have a few questions in regards to this model.

What parts will I need to replace as a standard and what if any are generic parts are available? Looking at the manual there are a few O rings (C,E&F in the diagram specs?), dust seals (A&B). Is this correct?

My research indicates the Showa fork oil recommended is equivalent to 10WT, is this correct? http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorc.../oil-weight.pl How close is MOTUL 10WT to this?

Any tips are appreciated.

2000 F4 750

Last edited by Glenno; 03-28-2017 at 05:46 AM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 11:15 AM
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Thumbs up fork rebuild?

Look on YouTube....


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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2000 F4 750
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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What do you guys recommend as the best attachment to torque to spec the top cap on the older style forks. With the preload adjusted out to 7 rings as the manual states not all fork cap tools will be suitable/deep enough.

This bloke in the video just used a big spanner and no torque wrench^^^ I would rather do it to spec.

2000 F4 750

Last edited by Glenno; 03-28-2017 at 09:38 PM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 07:43 AM
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Not sure you're reading the same manual as me mate... but in general, the o-rings do the sealing and the triple lamp do the holding on, everything else is just ease of mind. DON'T mix brands between applications.
Clamp the forks in your triple clamps, there's no better vice.
10 Weight oil is 10W oil, same between all brands for the general guy.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Think I have it figured. I'm just going to grind off the chamfered part of a deep 32mm socket and use some masking tape so I get a neat purchase on the fork cap and not damage the anodising.

Donsy, Page F -12 in the manual talks about winding out the pre load to 7 lines or level with the rebound adjuster prior to removing the fork cap. Forks are already out of the bike so am using a bicycle stand to hold them, but may need an extra hand just to crack the fork cap as it seems pretty tight. Y2000...been on there a while....

2000 F4 750

Last edited by Glenno; 03-29-2017 at 09:38 PM.
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