Rebound damping - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Rebound damping

I changed fork seals last week. As I took forks apart I never touched rebound screw. When I put everything together I checked compression, rebound and spring preload setting. I had assumed that as I screwed in the rebound screw (clockwise ) it would be close to the same position it was in. Was I wrong to assume that? Because I had rebound set at 7 clicks (just did a track day) and it took about 12 clicks to fully turn in after changing the seals. So of course now from full in, 7 clicks, the screw itself is visibly much deeper into the cap. I hope this makes sense, just wondering if I'm worrying to much. Thanks
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention I have a 07 F4
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 04:07 PM
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I haven't checked the manuals for earlier bike, but if that happened on my later model bike, it is a symptom that the preload adjuster has been taken off incorrectly, resulting in the zero point of the adjustment rod change.
There is a locking nut that must be held with a wrench as the preload cap is taken off.
It is not a disaster, the main thing is that the rod has enough adjustment range that it can seat fully at the minimum adjustment (maximum damping)
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 06:42 PM
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Jon, is correct, MyzTied you need to carefully look at a cutaway drawing of the fork

I changed the Sbowas on my Aprilia RSVR so I had 4 turns of rebound instead of the

stock 2 1/3 turns


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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 06:46 PM
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Jup, as these two gents suggested. Look very closely at the instructions in both the MV manual and the RAC50 manual which I have on my site if it's working at the moment.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-29-2016, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys . That makes sense. I'll check the manual again. By what your saying I think my problem was taking it apart improperly.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-29-2016, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyzTied View Post
Thanks guys . That makes sense. I'll check the manual again. By what your saying I think my problem was taking it apart improperly.
Download the RAC50 manuals from the bottom section on my manuals site too, there's a bit of conflict between the lot of them and the MV manuals, but you'll figure it out I'm sure, the trick is definitely in how you take them apart as a start.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-18-2016, 03:22 AM
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Its the nut under the cap ,Jon is correct easy fix ,I had mine done by some dick head mechanics who stuffed it up ,No big deal pull it out and test it before putting back in.These shocks are extremely easy to do .

cheers eddy
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