FINALLY! 1st ride on F3 675! - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Wink FINALLY! 1st ride on F3 675!

Finally!


Ive asked a bunch of questions since getting this thing like 8mo ago and finally rode it about an hour ago!
If this forum and its members didn't exist or wasn't in my language id have given up and sold the bike off before now!
I especially appreciate the extensive help ive got from Dansoarr in helping me deal with the ecu and ecu studio which is user-unfriendly.


So...
I took it for a 20mile spin trying to scrub the tires in do some hard pulls for break in and bed the rear brake pads first but the bike was killing the engine everything id try to manually rev match for a down shift and did a weird rpm auto blipping rev thing when trying to take off from a stop so I came back home and got Dansoarr on the horn and ended up having to turn off the blipper on the ecu. took it back out and was shredding on it for another 20 miles until my front fender vibrated the bolts on the right side completely out and the left side had 2-3 threads left! I managed to limp it home but now looking for new bolts and going to loctite them. It still has crappy throttle response when blipping for downshifts and the clutch does this weird thing like it jerks forward in your hand like somethings going on inside the basket when you pull it in but the throttle is smooth on/off no bucking which is great, won't have to worry about the soggy throttle on downshifts once somebody sells me the blipper sensor


Observations
-The abs on normal is total shit. running on race its still pretty bad but still useful, NOTHING like my Ktm, ducati or zx10 was. at least I can turn it off
-my exhaust with the db killer sounds heavenly, especially with a QS, haven't taken the baffle out yet and don't intend to unless at the track.
-the front brake master cylinder is total shit. same issue as my new gsxr 1000 and many other bikes, have an rcs19 on the way for the gsxr, will put one on this if it lives up to my expectations
-rear brake feels good, you can tell its heat soaking from the pipe and back/side of block so im going to shield/insulate it
-bike is WAY more comfortable than I thought, my rear sets ended up being lower than original even on their highest setting so im sending them back and getting something else
-my rear shock feels ok I suppose, need to soften the compression a few clicks
-oem forks seem way to fast in comp & rebound but at maximum they are probably close to ideal
-bike feels lighter but honestly, not dramatically lighter or quicker steering than the gsxr 1000, just a lot shorter and thinner. Not complaining but im not wow'd either. im also on DSC SC1 & sc2 tires not the junk that was on their either
-gearing feels a little tall, running a 180/60 rear as well, a -1 might fix it also part of a 520 conversion for some weight and reduce losses.
-Feels like it needs more RPM, like another 2k
-
-
-power is honestly, underwhelming. In my mind I was expecting this to be making around 130whp today with the race exhaust, race filter & "kit" ecu flash, it "feels" about the same total speed as my zx6r's and r6 were and they were approx 110whp. This needs to be addressed!!!!!

Overall, its a very pretty bike, it needs the chassis setup better, lower gearing and I guess a custom dyno tune at this point. I got a very good deal on the bike but it stills needs another 2k or so into it and its already significantly more $$$ than my new gsxr 1000. One of those cases of terrible value proposition but hopefully the happiness ratio is better. Its definitely different than the gsxr in the fact I can put down 100% of its power on these country back roads and really exercise the bike.




Have 2 track days coming up, the 2nd & 18th, seems like both the gsxr & mv will be ready in time. need to get the blipper on the mv as how it is now will be locking up the rear wheel.

Need to get another 60 miles on it so I can change the oil & filter and tighten the chain before the TD's.

Last edited by GCBC; 05-24-2018 at 04:05 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 05:56 PM
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Think the bump you feel from the clutch basket is the slipper engaging. Its a sign that the blip isn't right. You can feel it if blipping manually as well. Normal slipper behavior.

Your tune still needs work obviously. Stock F3 800 is way more powerful than a zx6r and r6.

Good to at least see you got it together and road worthy!
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2014 MV Agusta F3 800 ABS
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airjawed View Post
Stock F3 800 is way more powerful than a zx6r and r6.
its a 675 tho.

Last edited by GCBC; 05-24-2018 at 06:07 PM.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 07:09 PM
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You should definitely get the suspension tuned for your weight, it will make a noticeable difference. I also agree on the front master cylinder (OEM is Nissin) that it leaves a lot to be desired. Admittedly this is one part I still have on my bike, but with summer coming and me taking a break for a few months, I'll also be replacing it with the RCS19.

Mine is the 800 so I can't really comment on the performance you are noticing, but I do know that once I got mine to the track I was impressed at how nimble this bike is, even in stock config. I hope you will be too.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 08:10 PM
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Did you get this bike from a dealer in Minnesota? Nice bike! I'm thinking about a new F3 800 or a used F4.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spark View Post
You should definitely get the suspension tuned for your weight, it will make a noticeable difference. I also agree on the front master cylinder (OEM is Nissin) that it leaves a lot to be desired. Admittedly this is one part I still have on my bike, but with summer coming and me taking a break for a few months, I'll also be replacing it with the RCS19.

Mine is the 800 so I can't really comment on the performance you are noticing, but I do know that once I got mine to the track I was impressed at how nimble this bike is, even in stock config. I hope you will be too.

I had a custom tuned ttx36 on it and im 160-165lbs so I should be right in line for the front forks spring rate, going to run it hard tomorrow and see if I can get some stuff tweaked a little better.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Took it for a real rip yesterday, put in fresh 93oct and just rode it like I stole it. Must have been the 9mo+ old gas that was in the bike from when I bought it, they probably put 87-89 in it since they are a off road utv market. Felt like it was making all the power it should have this time, bike rips above 10k, really has a "hit" at the 10k mark as well. Didn't get it up to its top speed but did a bunch of 150-155ish pulls, not sure what it would do all out, seen some vids indicating 173ish. if thats the case I think -1 +1 should chop off 13mph and make it much crisper in the 70-130 range which I spend all my time


if anyone has the blipper sensor I need PLEASE reach out to me I need it ASAP

have 32mm front sag and 25mm rear on the ohlins. dont have the remote adjuster so idk how to adjust it with that hydraulic tiny silver half nut thing?

Last edited by GCBC; 05-26-2018 at 02:54 PM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 04:47 PM
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Time to get the manual out....

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
Time to get the manual out....

Why would that be in the manual? they don't put ohlins on these

and of course, no manual came with the ohlins and nothing online says anything about adjusting without the 400$ add on hyrdualic hand knob
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCBC View Post
Why would that be in the manual? they don't put ohlins on these

and of course, no manual came with the ohlins and nothing online says anything about adjusting without the 400$ add on hyrdualic hand knob
Erik, like just about all rear shocks you need a C spanner and it can be very tight / difficult to get in and adjust it, which is just one reason why the remote or hydraulic adjusters are so popular. My ohlins have always come with a little booklet and Spanner, even those with the remote adjusters. The remote adjusters have a limited adjustment range, so you need to adjust their position to suit.
@silentservice703 suggested getting the manual out, he's 100% right, it might not be the MV manual, but ohlins do explain it in their manual see page 8 in the link below.

https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/w...M_07242-01.pdf

Sometimes (especially with MV) you need to research and read the documentation a little deeper to find the info you need. Sometimes its not always where you expect it, hence we all spend time reading and learning.

Sounds like no blipper for the 2nd, maybe the 18th? Clearly a blipper helps but you can prevent the rear locking with the slipper clutch and manual throttle and clutch control.

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Last edited by dansoarr; 05-27-2018 at 08:20 AM.
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