F3 - first impressions - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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F3 - first impressions

On seeing her:
She looks awesome!


On the ride home:
1. Very very fast. Revs harder than my '98 R1 did, and pulls just the same.
2. The seat that Dirk put on, is the most uncomfortable seat I have ever sat on! See below though - it is me that's the problem, not Dirk or the very lovely looking seat!
3. The suspension is harsh.
4. Even though she's been lowered, she turns like my RVF400. This is a very good thing for those who've never been on an NC35...

Today, I've fitted heated grips and an alarm and fixed the seat and got the suspension in the right ball park.

First up:

Fitting heated grips:
Took about 40mins. Hardest part was trying to disconnect the fuel tank, before I gave up and just wedged it so I could get my teeny hands to the battery.

Fitting alarm:
Took about 2hours. If only because I couldn't find anywhere that it would fit! Sorted it eventually. It isn't an alarm immobiliser - just an alarm. The UK spec F3 have a built in immobiliser tied to the keys. The alarm is so that when I go on holiday on her, I will park her outside the hotel window (under a cover! Natch!) and I can keep an ear on her overnight.

Fixing the seat:
See - I am short. Tiny even. Which is why I got the bike lowered. But it also means that I sit *right up* against the tank. Now, Dirk's seat was designed for a normal size person, where they put their butt in the middle of the seat. That bit was nice and squashy. And flat. The bit that I was perched on was *very hard* and also came to a rounded point. Which was *sore*. I fixed the seat by taking the cover off, removing the very hard foam at the front, and replacing that with some of the gel-squshy-goodness from where a normal person might put their behind. You can't tell it has been fettled with.

Suspension is now in the right ball park.
The pre-load was way to high for me - both front and back. At the back I was getting 8mm (yes 8!) rider sag. Now getting 35mm rider sag. Feels much better.

I put some cable ties around the front forks to see how far down they went - and after a few emergency stops and 30mins of looning around the local twisties...I had 40mm spare before bottoming out. I backed the pre-load off the front until I've got 10mm spare. Took her for a test blast around the local roads (went through 2 tanks of fuel this afternoon! ) and loving it.

So far, since collection, I've done 300miles on her.

Few Qs if anyone can help - yes, I know. Lazy. I could just look it up, but while I'm here typing...you know.

Fuel range - what size is the tank, and how much is left when you come to reserve?

What size (and where can I get one in the UK) is the rear wheel nut?

That's all folks!

M

Take a chance while you still got the choice.
F3-800 / RVF400. Lancashire, England.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 01:44 PM
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She looks good!

I got a question for u: How do u adjust the suspension pre-load? And rear suspension is it turning the spring clock/counter clockwise?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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I will post the suspension tech thing I have later.

Front suspension:
Put some cable ties at round the forks then go for a hard ride. Brake hard. Wheelie. Stoppie. Ride like you do. Then see how far from bottom of forks the top of cable tie is. You are aiming for around 1cm. More than this, turn the preload on top of the forks anti clockwise. Less than this, the other way.

Rear :
Raise the bike using a stand such that there is no load on the rear swing arm. I.e an abba stand etc, but not a paddock stand. Measure from wheel hub to a fixed point on the frame.

Put the bike back on the ground-sit on it, in your riding kit, feet up (you need a friend to help ).

Measure again. Difference of around 35 to 45 mm is good.

Too much and you need to compress the rear spring (increase pre load). Too little then the other way.

Once this is set, you can start on the compression & rebound.

Take a chance while you still got the choice.
F3-800 / RVF400. Lancashire, England.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manicguitarist View Post
I will post the suspension tech thing I have later.

Front suspension:
Put some cable ties at round the forks then go for a hard ride. Brake hard. Wheelie. Stoppie. Ride like you do. Then see how far from bottom of forks the top of cable tie is. You are aiming for around 1cm. More than this, turn the preload on top of the forks anti clockwise. Less than this, the other way.

Rear :
Raise the bike using a stand such that there is no load on the rear swing arm. I.e an abba stand etc, but not a paddock stand. Measure from wheel hub to a fixed point on the frame.

Put the bike back on the ground-sit on it, in your riding kit, feet up (you need a friend to help ).

Measure again. Difference of around 35 to 45 mm is good.

Too much and you need to compress the rear spring (increase pre load). Too little then the other way.

Once this is set, you can start on the compression & rebound.
Okay thanks for responding.
Do u need any special tools to adjust front suspension?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Gold_Saw View Post
Okay thanks for responding.
Do u need any special tools to adjust front suspension?
Socket / spanner and a flat head screw driver.

Take a chance while you still got the choice.
F3-800 / RVF400. Lancashire, England.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the link to the article that I've been using for nigh on 20yrs for setting up your suspension.

Setup Guide

Take a chance while you still got the choice.
F3-800 / RVF400. Lancashire, England.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 09:42 PM
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Ok you two, please read this.
Congrats on the bike Mark.
Now, look at the top of this section and almost every section on this site, there's a sticky with a link to my website where you can download some Workshop manuals for your bikes, do this and read through them. This should show BGS how to adjust his suspension, and will show you how to disconnect the fuel tank Mark.
The rear wheel nut is the same on all MV's, check the section lower down the list where we post tool threads.
Suspension discussions are also done in the suspension sections for future reference, thanks for the nice write-up and link.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 03:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manicguitarist View Post
Socket / spanner and a flat head screw driver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by manicguitarist View Post
Here's the link to the article that I've been using for nigh on 20yrs for setting up your suspension.

Setup Guide
Thank you.
Gratz on your beautiful machine.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Donsy. I didn't intend the discussion to end up about suspension.

And yes, I've got the workshop manual - and I could see how to un fasten the fuel tank - it was just that it wouldn't come loose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donsy View Post
Ok you two, please read this.
Congrats on the bike Mark.
Now, look at the top of this section and almost every section on this site, there's a sticky with a link to my website where you can download some Workshop manuals for your bikes, do this and read through them. This should show BGS how to adjust his suspension, and will show you how to disconnect the fuel tank Mark.
The rear wheel nut is the same on all MV's, check the section lower down the list where we post tool threads.
Suspension discussions are also done in the suspension sections for future reference, thanks for the nice write-up and link.

Take a chance while you still got the choice.
F3-800 / RVF400. Lancashire, England.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 05:43 AM
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If you're talking about uncoupling the fuel line connector there are two buttons, one on the front and one on the back. It takes a very hard squeeze for it to pop open.

We're all here, but we're not all there.
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